Stihl 036 rebuild

[huskihl]

Any time I split cases now, when I put the cylinder on, I loosen the case bolts up and tighten the cylinder down first. Then re-tighten the case bolts

 

[Lone Wolf]

Up next, off with the jug.
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Am I missing something, or shouldnt this this be in alot worse shape if it was straight gassed?
Some scratches on the piston. Thats getting replaced anyhow.
Then I tried the "heat and beat" method of splitting the case. I got it to separate about 1/8".
I may revisit trying more later, or just hit the Stihl shop next week and ask him to split it.
Or just make/buy one..

Can you post pics of the piston,both sides?

 

[redline4]

Can you post pics of the piston,both sides?

Sure can. Thought I did, must have forgot!

 

[RI Chevy]

I bet you could sand the piston smooth and reuse in a pinch.

 

[Stump Shot]

I hear ya Steve. I use the Stihl way. I’ve also never seen the oil pump get ruined by the heat.

I don’t do them the Husky way because I alway worry about the PTO side being off. I use the MattyO tool now and it’s saved me many a headache.

If I ever made a video of me doing it before, and the bearing getting stuck by being put in crooked, I could make you raff for sure. That when I’d fear the heat soak, and start banging the bearing in with any blunt object.

I still use the "Husqvarna" way as it's the way I started out rebuilding saws and to my line of thinking quite fool proof. Heat bearings slide on the crank all the way until they stop. Here's the "trick" put the crank in the flywheel side first all the way in until it stops, then the pto side is automatically in the right spot when the halves are put together. On saws with no stop for the bearing such as the 266SE/XP I measure the crank lobe width and the case opening then subtract he two and divide by two to get a feeler gauge measurement, remember the gasket, or just find a feeler gauge before taking apart. then drop the crank down to the feeler gauge until it "sets" up. So far knock on wood, they all have come out centered, even the one on my 2100 that I put in backwards. LOL

 

[Stump Shot]

Any time I split cases now, when I put the cylinder on, I loosen the case bolts up and tighten the cylinder down first. Then re-tighten the case bolts

Interesting. I take it you've had the case halves not line up before? I could see this causing a leak if it were to happen.

 

[redline4]

I bet you could sand the piston smooth and reuse in a pinch.

Probably, but some of the scratches above the ring lands are deeper than they appear in the pics. Plus, I'm this far into it, it's getting a new slug!
The fact that the jug made it through unscathed is a definate bonus.

 

[Stump Shot]

Probably, but some of the scratches above the ring lands are deeper than they appear in the pics. Plus, I'm this far into it, it's getting a new slug!
The fact that the jug made it through unscathed is a definate bonus.

Ya, you don't want it too loose to the bore and have it slapping around after all the trouble you went to fix it.

 

[huskihl]

Interesting. I take it you've had the case halves not line up before? I could see this causing a leak if it were to happen.

That's correct. While cutting off the excess gasket material and the razor blade scratches one half but not the other

 

[Stump Shot]

Finish on the Meteor sure is nice and I like the windows. Wings are smaller than OEM.

 

[redline4]

Dumb question, but what is the purpose of the wings on the side?
Something pertaining to the transfers I assume?

 

[huskihl]

Dumb question, but what is the purpose of the wings on the side?
Something pertaining to the transfers I assume?

Keeps the piston more stable in the bore

 

[redline4]

Huh.
Here I thought it was more scientific!

 

[drf256]

Finish on the Meteor sure is nice and I like the windows. Wings are smaller than OEM.

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There’s a KS and a Mahle piston that are both oem for the 036. The KS has bigger wings but smaller windows. I prefer the Mahle.

Not sure if one is an 034S and the other 036?

 

[drf256]

 

[Stump Shot]

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The piston pictured came out of a cylinder marked "Stihl", I really don't know who made it but always wondered so. The base is quite thin compared to the Mahle that is replacing it.

 

[drf256]

The piston pictured came out of a cylinder marked "Stihl", I really don't know who made it but always wondered so. The base is quite thin compared to the Mahle that is replacing it.

Should say it inside the skirt Steve.

The shiny “Stihl” jugs, late decomp types, were Gillardoni. They are beautiful, great ports.

 

[drf256]

It’s the shiny one, second from left.

 

[redline4]

So if I am following, if say Mahle made the cylinder Stihl used on a particular saw, it was also a Mahle made piston? Ks cyclinder, KS piston, so on and so forth?

 

[drf256]

They look like this now, waiting to be unleashed and Mofo-ized.

The G jug is certainly a different alloy than KS or Mahle.