Stihl 036 rebuild

[huskihl]

You made out real well with that cylinder.

Yes he did.
Personally, I'd rather find one with a scored cylinder, though. At least you kinda know what's wrong with it. Unless the scoring was from mechanicical damage, I've been able to clean up and reuse all but a couple. It's pretty quick to replace the seals and piston. Back to running in a couple hours versus having to split the case and put new bearings in

 

[67L36Driver]

Plastic ball separator on that. Not surprising they are far less tolerant of temperature and lack of oil.

 

[redline4]

The fw bearing allowed the fw to contact the coil preventing the saw from running long enough to score the cylinder. The misdiagnosis is common, regardless of what's wrong with the saw. Because of it, they probably sold him a new saw.

Based off the contact, would you think the coil is still ok? Flywheel?
I will have to take a real close look, but appeared to be just some scuffing on both.


Heres the piston.


Based off how clean it was overall, pretty much no buildup behind the flywheel, etc. I am going to guess it was a homeowner saw who didnt use it a ton.
The dealer I got it from is a 1 man operation. Dingy little hole in the wall place. Crap piled everywhere. His diagnosis was straight gassed, engine bad.

As far as the piston goes, stick with oem or go Meteor?

 

[Fruecrue]

Nothing wrong with Meteor.

 

[redline4]

Thanks Dave. I cant say I found anything concrete thats was negative about them.

I will likely price out both, just trying to see if there are some parts I can save a few bucks without turning it into a problem child or a hand grenade.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Meteor piston and caber rings will work quite nicely.
Meteor piston has slightly wider skirts compared to oem but they're also a little heavier.
The weight won't hurt anything with a work saw and the wider skirts will help with keeping the piston stable in the cylinder.

 

[huskihl]

I'd find some new bearings, seals, meteor piston and impulse and try it. A lot of the original rubber on those saws, even though they're old, might be better than what we're putting into them today. I like leaving the old stuff on if it's good

 

[redline4]

I could find absolutely nothing wrong with any of the rubber mounts. Other than some grime and bar oil, all are in perfect condition.

So, looks like Meteor piston, Caber rings, carb kit, Hyway gasket/seals ok for this? I have used them on a Husky 268 with no issues.

Any thoughts on a Tecomec piston? Its half the price of a Meteor, not that it breaks the bank either.
http://www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/572497-tec.htm

Impulse, fuel line/filter I will likely just get oem along with wrist pin bearing.

That leaves the crank bearings. From what I have read on here, it's all over the place on preference. Should I just stick with oem there too, or is there a cheaper alternative that doesnt sacrifice quality?

 

[Fruecrue]

OEM only on clutch side. I got one recently on eBay for $28 shipped.
6202C3 on flywheel side, I use nachi bought at a local bearing shop.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Like Dave said, oem bearing only for the clutch side.
If you're getting an oem bearing from the dealer I'd pick up a gasket kit while there. The kits aren't to expensive and you'll get every gasket and seals for a full rebuild. Crank seals, case gasket, cylinder gasket and muffler gasket.

 

[MustangMike]

I believe the Meteor pistons come with caber rings.

I've not had problems with the AM bearings in 440s and 460s, and they may use the same bearings??? I'm not positive on that, but I think I saw it some place?

 

[Stump Shot]

Just a few thoughts from my experience with the 036. I can't recommend any of the rubber parts that makes the engine run be anything other than OEM no matter what the end usuge is. These saws are nearing the age that a preemptive change should be considered.
Pistons aren't so critical unless building a high performance saw, then OEM or Meteor would suffice. The rings are more important as far as longevity is concerned and the spectrum is a broad one. I can't speak for the Tecomec rings included with their piston. If you want you could add a set of Caber rings of the right size. Bearings should also be of high quality. Heat used for installation should be kept to a minimum to keep from melting the plastic separator.

Just as a note to folks, the oil pump does not have to be removed completely to successfully rebuild one of these saws. It can be swing out of the way on it's oil line and left in if there is nothing wrong with it as shown in the picture where I am repairing a stripped hole for the bucking spike, which is kinda common.



The 036 is tolerant of different methods of assembly other than the Stihl way, the Husqvarna methods work equally as well, so what ever a fella is used to is fine.

 

[redline4]

Thanks for the input so far guys!
Much appriciated!

@Stump Shot I was kind of thinking the same thing on the Tecomec. If I end up having to get rings too, I may as well just order the Meteor and be done.

 

[Stump Shot]

Thanks for the input so far guys!
Much appriciated!

@Stump Shot I was kind of thinking the same thing on the Tecomec. If I end up having to get rings too, I may as well just order the Meteor and be done.

Wasn't saying they was bad now, just haven't enough experience with them is all to say one way or the other. As a generality, I would have no problem putting it in a stock firewood saw for example. Think I have both here at the moment if you need any details between the two or compared to OEM.

 

[drf256]

Get a meteor. I’ve got Tecomec here if you want one, just pay shipping. There’s a reason they are sitting. Meteor are cheap insurance for a build, plus, they come with cabers so you save there.

Contact @Definitive Dave with your full order. He’s got great prices.

I go oem with the PTO side bearing and an SKF 6202 on the Fly side (they make the oem bearings). Get an oem gasket set which includes the seal. Again, I know it adds up, but nothing beats oem.

Dave has Farmertec bearings which he swears have no issues for the amount of time he has sold them. A big manufacturer makes them for Huztl, they don’t make them themselves. I’ve experienced nothing but good quality with them, but no one trusts them so I only go oem.

I haven’t ever had the “heat method” of bearing installs disrupt the plastic retainer in the PTO bearing myself. On disassembly it certainly cooks it, but on assembly it just doesn’t see the heat needed to ruin it IMHO.

We are here to help. That jug really does look good.

 

[Stump Shot]

I haven’t ever had the “heat method” of bearing installs disrupt the plastic retainer in the PTO bearing myself. On disassembly it certainly cooks it, but on assembly it just doesn’t see the heat needed to ruin it IMHO.

We are here to help. That jug really does look good.

Installing them the Stihl way in the cases first probably not, the Husqvarna way crank first is very easy to do. Please don't ask me how I know. Lol

 

[drf256]

I hear ya Steve. I use the Stihl way. I’ve also never seen the oil pump get ruined by the heat.

I don’t do them the Husky way because I alway worry about the PTO side being off. I use the MattyO tool now and it’s saved me many a headache.

If I ever made a video of me doing it before, and the bearing getting stuck by being put in crooked, I could make you raff for sure. That when I’d fear the heat soak, and start banging the bearing in with any blunt object.

 

[redline4]

So I had a bit more time to spend, and got the cases separated.
There is a slight witness mark from the bearing race on the crankshaft counterweight.
I dont see it presenting a problem, but what say you guys?


After that, I started looking the cases over and that when I notice I may have just screwed the proverbial pooch.
It seems that before the cases fully separated, they came apart at an angle and I did not notice it.
It dragged one of the alignment dowels along for the ride, and cracked the case half.



Now, this is not at area that is inside the bar oil sump.
I can drive the dowel back into the case, but will this create a possible alignment issue? I "think" it would be ok, but...

Keep in mind, I am not building this to sell, but to keep and it will see firewood work and not much else.

Im off to where my kids cant hear me go on a 15-20 minute cussing rant about some idiot with a heat gun, a rubber mallet and a chainsaw.

 

[J_M____]

it won’t affect it sealing. I think you will be alright.

 

[MustangMike]

I agree, I don't think it will be a problem at all. I would sand the inside and put a coat of JB Weld over it, would likely make it as good as new!

No cussin necessary!!!