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Moparmyway

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I have to disagree with the tubing thing, you have keep changing these adjustments because even the chain you just ground will not be the same the next time you grind it, if the settings are the same you will miss the corner.
Just thro a different chain on there now and you will see what I'me talking about.
Sharpen a longer loop.
I’m not talking about chain to chain, but when you sharpen chains for 4, 5, & 6 foot setups, you’re going to be wanting the adjusters to stay put
 

PA Dan

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Ok, I see it now, your not locking it, just keeping it from moving from vibration.
Sometimes I don't catch on rite away:oops:
Exactly! I was converting a 60dl loop yesterday. Got the first cutter dialed in. I did the second and pulled the chain off the grinder to check and all was fine! Put the chain back on and start on the third and I end up with a beak? I move to the forth and as I start touching the tooth to the wheel I see the stop spinning! I added some tygon pieces and got some wing nuts today.
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dall

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Exactly! I was converting a 60dl loop yesterday. Got the first cutter dialed in. I did the second and pulled the chain off the grinder to check and all was fine! Put the chain back on and start on the third and I end up with a beak? I move to the forth and as I start touching the tooth to the wheel I see the stop spinning! I added some tygon pieces and got some wing nuts today.
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quit using the stops
 

mettee

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I like using the tubing with a nut. It preloads the adjusters so they don’t move unless I want them to.

I’d hate having to “unlock” those every time I wanna tweak any adjuster.


I was wondering if that was the case. I have not used a grinder but a couple times. From the engine building and machine work I do, the grinders are typically happy when I lock them down. I can see where the ability to fly, on the fly would come in handy
 

mdavlee

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I always set the stops and would love the teeth that need a little extra to clean up or not have a top beak by hand
 
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