SHOW ME YOUR AXES

[maulhead]

Something tells me, Brad was asking about edge angles, not handle lengths.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Something tells me, Brad was asking about edge angles, not handle lengths.

Good call, that's what I need, edge angles.

They're both hung at 30", which for me is typically "just right," though that light Kelly Perfect might need a few more inches handle length.

The wood these will be splitting is oak and maple, I'm wondering about edge angles, and they don't have to be even numbers like 25° and 30°, those are just a guess. What do experienced folks think would be good?

 

[davidwyby]

 

[maulhead]

View attachment 406727

Are those chaps or full pants?

 

[davidwyby]

Are those chaps or full pants?

Chaps

 

[Oddsandends]

I (edit): LOVE my Stihl axe and maul. I will post pics here soon.

 

[Oddsandends]

 

[Squareground3691]

View attachment 407631View attachment 407632View attachment 407633View attachment 407634

There’s a Stihl maul like top pic , on eBay for 49.00 ,

 

[davidwyby]

There’s a Stihl maul like top pic , on eBay for 49.00 ,

Not any more

 

[Loony661]

Not any more

Did you buy it?

 

[davidwyby]

Did you buy it?

Maaaaaybe

 

[Catbuster]

Got my first new from the manufacturer axe in a long time today

TL/DR: Gonna be a great wedge/Halligan beating axe, but there’s a reason Fire Hooks Unlimited charges what they do for their irons set.



It’s the Council Tool FE6. It’s a really nice looking 6 lb rafter style head. I’m planning on using it as my mean wedge beater and using it with the Halligan for its intended purpose. When, not if, I break the curved handle I have a 32” straight handle I’ll hang it on.

I kinda wish the bit was slimmer/more tapered for the forcible entry part of the axe. It’s going to be hard to keep it in a slim gap or drive it in like a wedge with the Halligan, but that’s why I started carrying an aluminum door chock. They work really well for that purpose. The upshot is that it almost feels like a sledge with the bit being so short, which will be nice for beating wedges.

I am not lying when I say I wanted the axe alone… But I could wait until the axe alone was available, or buy the axe plus $200 and get the irons set.

I don’t own a Halligan... Until now. I’ve always been a Pro Bar or no bar guy, and Pro Bars are expensive, and they need to be dressed. The Council comes with squared off fork edges, thinned adze end and a blunted pike. The jury is out for the forks on the Council. I don’t know if I’ll like the hard bump stop, but I’m going to do some work with the door prop. The adze looks legit, and the pike looks like it’ll better to drive through dead bolts.

 

[davidwyby]

I found the curved handle very unwieldy for beating wedges. Great for splitting or taking limbs off in one swipe.

 

[Loony661]

Got my first new from the manufacturer axe in a long time today

TL/DR: Gonna be a great wedge/Halligan beating axe, but there’s a reason Fire Hooks Unlimited charges what they do for their irons set.

View attachment 411437

It’s the Council Tool FE6. It’s a really nice looking 6 lb rafter style head. I’m planning on using it as my mean wedge beater and using it with the Halligan for its intended purpose. When, not if, I break the curved handle I have a 32” straight handle I’ll hang it on.

I kinda wish the bit was slimmer/more tapered for the forcible entry part of the axe. It’s going to be hard to keep it in a slim gap or drive it in like a wedge with the Halligan, but that’s why I started carrying an aluminum door chock. They work really well for that purpose. The upshot is that it almost feels like a sledge with the bit being so short, which will be nice for beating wedges.

I am not lying when I say I wanted the axe alone… But I could wait until the axe alone was available, or buy the axe plus $200 and get the irons set.

I don’t own a Halligan... Until now. I’ve always been a Pro Bar or no bar guy, and Pro Bars are expensive, and they need to be dressed. The Council comes with squared off fork edges, thinned adze end and a blunted pike. The jury is out for the forks on the Council. I don’t know if I’ll like the hard bump stop, but I’m going to do some work with the door prop. The adze looks legit, and the pike looks like it’ll better to drive through dead bolts.

That looks like a nice set of irons. I’m typically the “axe man” if I go into a structure, but there’s no doubt a Halligan is a handy tool as well. 6lbs ought to drive that Halligan wherever you need it to go.

 

[Catbuster]

I found the curved handle very unwieldy for beating wedges. Great for splitting or taking limbs off in one swipe.

I’m not its biggest fan either, but it’s what will be on there until I break it. With it being a curved handle, it won’t take me long. I’ll hang it on a 32” straight handle after. I prefer straight handles, period. I think they’re more controllable. Or maybe I just swing too hard and the “whip” from the curve gets out of hand.

That looks like a nice set of irons. I’m typically the “axe man” if I go into a structure, but there’s no doubt a Halligan is a handy tool as well. 6lbs ought to drive that Halligan wherever you need it to go.

I’m a halligan man, it’s just more versatile. There are very few non-commercial doors I can’t get in with a good one. Maybe it’s a regional thing, or it’s because we’re on a 3-man engine company a lot, with trucks/rescues getting priority for the fourth/fifth people, we have an irons man-usually the company officer, nozzle man and the driver/engineer/Sergeant.

I’m going to have to take some pictures and compare this with the Pro Bar/FHU axe on the engine. The axe we keep with the halligan there is an eight-pound American felling axe-style head. I wonder how this FE6 hits in comparison, because the six-pounder we have on the truck sometimes seems anemic when you’re trying to get past a metal jamb.

It’s funny to think the three tools I’ve used the most in the fire service are the Halligan, the chainsaw and the engine itself.

 

[davidwyby]

@Catbuster I pulled the handle and saved it for a not banger head. Mine is on a very nice 32" straight east coast lumberjack handle. Shorter would be better for wedges, but 32" keeps it versatile.

FYI when you go to rehang:

I may have already posted my re hang here...

 

[Catbuster]

@Catbuster I pulled the handle and saved it for a not banger head. Mine is on a very nice 32" straight east coast lumberjack handle. Shorter would be better for wedges, but 32" keeps it versatile.

FYI when you go to rehang:

I may have already posted my re hang here...

Is East Coast Lumberjack a manufacturer of handles? I’ve bought most of mine recently theough Beaver Tooth, but their turnaround time is brutal and my big palms/short fingers don’t like some of their handle profiles. I’m looking at maybe something else.

Anothrt reason those are hung flush is because a lot of guys slide hit the Halligan forks with the top of the axe. You’d destroy the wedge and the handle leaving it proud. Mike Perrone has some good video on that topic. I may make some later tonight if I make it to the firehouse.

When it comes to axes, it’s not a rare thing I’m hiking in a couple of miles and I carry my falling gear, and a small pack with water/lunch/gas/etc, and I carry one axe for everything. Over the last few years I’ve grabbed for a 5 lb Sager head I’ve had a couple of handles through. Right now it’s on a 28” double it bit handle, but it’s going on a 30 or 32 next time it gets hung. We’ll see how I like this one or if it’ll live with that Halligan tool for the rest of its life.

I got a new aluminum axe scabbard (and belt, and wedge holder, and shoulder pads) from Grizzly Peak I want to get some time on this year too. I’m excited. It should be an upgrade from a nail pouch on a rigger’s belt for wedges, and tucking the axe through the belt. The hard hat hasn’t changed though. Still rocking the Skullgard.

 

[Squareground3691]

Is East Coast Lumberjack a manufacturer of handles? I’ve bought most of mine recently theough Beaver Tooth, but their turnaround time is brutal and my big palms/short fingers don’t like some of their handle profiles. I’m looking at maybe something else.

Whiskey River, has some nice stuff , bought a bunch from them ,Killinger axe handles are very good too,

 

[Czed]

@Catbuster I pulled the handle and saved it for a not banger head. Mine is on a very nice 32" straight east coast lumberjack handle. Shorter would be better for wedges, but 32" keeps it versatile.

FYI when you go to rehang:

I may have already posted my re hang here...

I like the 20" miner's handle's they are good carrying on ATVs or in the woods

20" Miners Straight Single Bit Axe Hickory Replacement Handle ( 6 handles) | eBay

The color of the wood does not affect the strength or quality of the hickory. The U.S Forest Products Lab has found no difference in white or red hickory's strength. Therefore, the best hickory handles may be red, white or a mix.

www.ebay.com

I'm ordering these no idea the maker

 

[ajschainsaws]

I like the 20" miner's handle's they are good carrying on ATVs or in the woods

20" Miners Straight Single Bit Axe Hickory Replacement Handle ( 6 handles) | eBay

The color of the wood does not affect the strength or quality of the hickory. The U.S Forest Products Lab has found no difference in white or red hickory's strength. Therefore, the best hickory handles may be red, white or a mix.

www.ebay.com

I'm ordering these no idea the maker

You won’t be disappointed there good handles I import several boxes of there double and single bit
36”handles