SHOW ME YOUR AXES

[ajschainsaws]

@ajschainsaws heres pics with a rulerView attachment 135607View attachment 135608

Thanks that’s a decent size head and it looks a regular size for handle fitment

 

[Junior Samples]

View attachment 135368 Scored this one today 30$ should clean up nice

How are going to clean it up? I have the one and want to clean enough to find the maker but not to much.

 

[longleaf]

Yes sir I bought a bunch of stuff yesterday I’m cleaning all up.

 

[longleaf]

Here is a 3 1/2 pound Brazil felling axe I picked up. Clean it up blued it with gun blueing, put a handle in it and straightened the edge where it was sharped on a bench grinder. The handle is a little thin for this axe but it handles great.

 

[ajschainsaws]

View attachment 136052 View attachment 136051
Here is a 3 1/2 pound Brazil felling axe I picked up. Clean it up blued it with gun blueing, put a handle in it and straightened the edge where it was sharped on a bench grinder. The handle is a little thin for this axe but it handles great.

That axe looks good it has tidied up well nice job

 

[ajschainsaws]

Postman brought this today another to mark off the list
Norlund log splitting axe it’s a heavy ole devil 4 3/4 lb

 

[Junior Samples]

Would this Simmons be the Axe builder or IC Simmons the hardware store? GoodView attachment 133633 mourning men.

A little info on the Daniel Simmons axe. D. Simmons started making axes in 1828 on a anvil near Cohoe NY. And by 1834 he opened a factory in Cohoe between Mohawk river and Champlain Canal, the D Simmons Axe Co. His biggest competition was Collins Axe Co. I had my great grandfather, Mr Shannon come from Ireland to Canada then Lake Champlain as loggers. Their name in Ireland was Shanahan. Any Shannons out there?

 

[longleaf]

This is the broad axe I posted the other day. I started cleaning it up it does have pitting but I found signs of forge welding and hammer marks. File check hard edge. Edge needs a lot of work. Chipping and poor sharpening. so I’m going slow to not change the temper. The face is the largest I have at 14”. Hoping to make it a usable axe. Most of the broad axes I have are either to mint or to rough to use.

 

[longleaf]

I will probably make my own handle for it since most of the pre made broad axe handles are way too long to be usable. I have found that there isn’t enough control to hew a log when you have an 8 pound axe 32” from your hand. Most that have original handles the handles are shorter than the ones on the market.

 

[longleaf]

I have another one that is decent other than a large chip. Has anyone repaired a large chip without reheating and quenching. I can’t fit the whole thing in my forge. And I’m afraid of warping it with a torch.

 

[longleaf]

Thanks that’s a decent size head and it looks a regular size for handle fitment

The biggest thing with American broad axe handles is you need a bent handle to keep your knuckles off the log. I would like to use a European broad axe to see how they feel. Many of them had straight handles with the blade at a slight angle to the head. The only European axes with the twisted head I have found here were very expensive. Most people that have one know they are rare here.

 

[srcarr52]

I have another one that is decent other than a large chip. Has anyone repaired a large chip without reheating and quenching. I can’t fit the whole thing in my forge. And I’m afraid of warping it with a torch.

Preheat a little, tig weld and then quench it in oil, gas, or mineral spirits. I like to use gas or mineral spirits as it leaves less carbon on the part. Yes, it will probably start on fire, so use a long wire or tongs to keep away from the flames and have something to snuff it out handy.

 

[leadfarmer]

Preheat a little, tig weld and then quench it in oil, gas, or mineral spirits. I like to use gas or mineral spirits as it leaves less carbon on the part. Yes, it will probably start on fire, so use a long wire or tongs to keep away from the flames and have something to snuff it out handy.

Is there any thing you can't weld ? Welcome to the axe heads.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[srcarr52]

Is there any thing you can't weld ? Welcome to the axe heads.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Sure there is... some Stihl cases just can't be welded, made of kitty litter I think.

 

[leadfarmer]

You welded a stihl starter for me once, very nice since Glock put his shine on it. [emoji38]

Sure there is... some Stihl cases just can't be welded, made of kitty litter I think.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[longleaf]

Preheat a little, tig weld and then quench it in oil, gas, or mineral spirits. I like to use gas or mineral spirits as it leaves less carbon on the part. Yes, it will probably start on fire, so use a long wire or tongs to keep away from the flames and have something to snuff it out handy.

Thanks I will try that first. I thought about it. I might could use a torch if I had to as long as I just heat the edge and go slow and even it shouldn’t warp. Should have enough meat behind it to hold it still.

 

[Junior Samples]

Preheat a little, tig weld and then quench it in oil, gas, or mineral spirits. I like to use gas or mineral spirits as it leaves less carbon on the part. Yes, it will probably start on fire, so use a long wire or tongs to keep away from the flames and have something to snuff it out handy.

Do you use a temperature stick to get it a certain temp? I tried to stick weld a LB cast alum deck preheated, worked good until it would cool down.

 

[srcarr52]

Do you use a temperature stick to get it a certain temp? I tried to stick weld a LB cast alum deck preheated, worked good until it would cool down.

For steel it's pretty easy to tell the temp if you have a shinny surface. When it turns from yellow to purple is a good time to quench for a axe, 500-520 F. For an axe you only want the edge tempered, so rapid heating to only get the leading edge hot is necessary.

You probably had the stick welder on the wrong polarity. Most of the time you'll use DCEN for stick welding, but for aluminum you'd want DCEP to get more heat into the part.

 

[Junior Samples]

For steel it's pretty easy to tell the temp if you have a shinny surface. When it turns from yellow to purple is a good time to quench for a axe, 500-520 F. For an axe you only want the edge tempered, so rapid heating to only get the leading edge hot is necessary.

You probably had the stick welder on the wrong polarity. Most of the time you'll use DCEN for stick welding, but for aluminum you'd want DCEP to get more heat into the part.

I'll check that. But do you recomend preheat first? Thanks.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Got some of this stuff @XP_Slinger