tree monkey
Mastermind Approved!
- Local time
- 11:13 AM
- User ID
- 339
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2015
- Messages
- 4,820
- Reaction score
- 39,963
- Location
- wi

Not on the JMS 661
yep, the one I had here popped with a stock key
Not on the JMS 661
Does resetting the saw help?
yep, the one I had here popped with a stock key
This one was already advanced. After switching from jms to stock to my ported and back and forth 15 times I'm convinced it' the mtronic that won' lean out enough to run that cylinder. It pops progressively less the hotter the saw gets. If I do an mtron reset, it pops twice as bad and gets progressively better as the saw heats up. It's rich and won't lean out more. If i put either of the cylinders I ported on it, there's no popping at allMine needs 020 or less advance to stop popping. You have to much advance?
Bullshìt. That's the exact opposite of the truth. The hotter this saw gets, the less it pops and gets stronger“The more they pop the stronger they get”.
This one pops like hell after a reset. And pops less as it warms up and learns. It just won't warm up and learn enoughmaybe for a few cuts, then it's back to jiffypop
It runs less rpm in the cut than mine and my cylinder doesn't do it. But I agree, the more load, the less it popsIt's running to close to the programmed rev limit and adding fuel to slow it down. Have you tried putting a heavy load on it with a long bar?
It runs less rpm in the cut than mine and my cylinder doesn't do it. But I agree, the more load, the less it pops
Ever tried removing the flange? Ain't much room for fuel to move up through the middle of the case. I'm thinking the flange might be helping ityour results are basically the same as mine
So the "M" in M-tronic doesn't stand for "Maxxed Out"?
Would only be interesting to know, as a what not to do, but then again, there's probably not much one would want to emulate from this mans work.