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RPM In The Cut

Mastermind

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I am just trying to understand what makes these things tick.

Seems like you already think you know what these things tick.

I'm not trying to be hard on you.....it probably seems that way, but I'd just like to see you reel in some of the arrogance and stick around long enough to see what is happening in current times. Back in the Racesaws days, and early on in AS, we were all building what we thought were some incredible saws. And there were some really fast cant cutters being built. But what was considered a work saw build, or a woods ported saw then, and what we are all doing now, are literally miles apart. There are no secrets here either really.....no need to be hush hush about what we are doing. Ask any builder here and you will get a complete rundown of what was done to any model you want to know about. Settle in......enjoy the information that is available.
 

Wanab

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Unless you have the same exact model of saw. Using the same chain is not ideal. If you tweak said chain. My long bar on my husky I mentioned hates new chain takes a few good sharpening sessions to give the depth guages the height I want. For that specific saw. Or occasionally you get the chain that’s set a touch high from the factory. Dunno why.

we overthinking again boys


I get what you saying about tuning the chain to the saw/bar. @Mastermind , If I knew I wouldn't ask. I do get what you are saying and thanks.
 

Sawrain

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Pull down less with the same load yes, but I don’t think we can say pulls down less when loaded to what feels right.


Take a stock 660, peak power around 9500rpm, tune to 13000rpm, port it, peak power might move to 10500rpm and the tune to 14000rpm, in both cases you drop 3500rpm to peak power, the “zone” you will most likely be cutting around.

You can see on Joe’s dyno thread some saws tune to 14 and 15k rpm, look how many rpm they have to drop to get into their “powerband”

Saws often gain over rev/piss rev rpm when ported, kind of undoing the different between cutting and peak rpm.

If I couldn’t get a saw to load down past normal cutting rpm I would be checking to see if the chain even had cutters.
 
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pbillyi69

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I get what you saying about tuning the chain to the saw/bar. @Mastermind , If I knew I wouldn't ask. I do get what you are saying and thanks.
all of this is why i mentioned it all in my post that chain in the video was a little grabby but would still hold 10k when i let the saw do the work not pushing on it or holding it back but getting to just eat its way through. it was tuned to 12800 no load i will tune it a little higher once it has a few more tanks of gas through it.
 

Stump Shot

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The main thing as I see it is as long as the saw doesn't fall on its face and stall in the cut, it's doing a good job.
What's preferred is that the saw engine bucks up and meets the new set of "variables" thrown at it and keeps cutting at a lower RPM and when that variable is met can crawl back up to normal rpm without being relieved of its load.
A stalled saw cuts no wood. A saw engine works its best with a good load on it.
So if your saw is consistently and constantly stalling in the cut, it might be time to go in a different direction than what you are.
Or just keep going from 14,500 to idle RPM over and over again if you wanna get tired out quicker.
(Dedicated, race, play, limbing and pulp wood saws can be excluded from comment).
 

Stump Shot

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What's the deal with pulp wood saws? Packer pole cutters need love too.
They do at that, they can get by with less "torque" than some of your felling/bucking saws need, if only cutting poplar in the spring or other softwood jobs like eastern cedar in the swamps of winter for example.
 

av8or3

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How about the 090AV, has a wind vane governor that allows the saw to run 8000 rpm at all times.
In the wood, out of the wood, big wood , little wood , all at 8000 rpm has been my experience. I don’t know how long a bar or thick a tree it would take to knock it out of its groove but like has been said here before , there’s no replacement for displacement.
 

Duane(Pa)

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If I ever learned anything at a GTG, it is that some people have NFC how to run a saw. I have seen renowned saw models brought to their knees by dorks that had no idea how to handle the saw in their hands.
Edit to add... Some saws can NOT be brought to their knees
 

av8or3

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I think no matter the size of a saw , finesse is required to get the most out of it. I think I read that finesse is defined as “ delicate skill”. It certainly can be applied to running any tool or piece of machinery.
 

Mastermind

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I think no matter the size of a saw , finesse is required to get the most out of it. I think I read that finesse is defined as “ delicate skill”. It certainly can be applied to running any tool or piece of machinery.

Or handling a woman.
 
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