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I believe that bare wire should go to ground where it is equipped with points or the chip.

Had someone contact me this week with an SP105 that had been equipped with a chip that did not perform well, I suggested he switch the leads around and voila, the saw returned to peak performance.

Mark
So it's a - to run system instead of+?
 

lehman live edge slab

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I got some bars in a lot at an auction, in the lot was a nice looks like 20” Remington roller nose. I have no need for it are they worth anything to anyone? Needs some cleaning up but nice and smooth/tight roller nose
 

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heimannm

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Chris - Are the bar slots 3/8 for the bigger saws, or 5/16 for the smaller saws?

Mark
 

beaglebriar

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I have a SL-5 here that needs a tune up. What is the proper carb kit for this old slob??
 

heimannm

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I got this one a few weeks ago from a member over on AS.

20251226_082127.jpg

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I had to find a few pieces, modify a recoil starter spring from a PM6 (McCulloch), and add a condenser from some old Echo machine. Bar and chain came from a Mini Mac...

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On another matter, I have a request to work on a PL11 with a non-functioning oiler. Does anyone have and insight into how involved working on the oiler on that model will be?

Mark
 

edju1958

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I got this one a few weeks ago from a member over on AS.

View attachment 478224

View attachment 478225

I had to find a few pieces, modify a recoil starter spring from a PM6 (McCulloch), and add a condenser from some old Echo machine. Bar and chain came from a Mini Mac...

View attachment 478226

View attachment 478228

On another matter, I have a request to work on a PL11 with a non-functioning oiler. Does anyone have and insight into how involved working on the oiler on that model will be?

Mark
Mark,I know I'm late to the party,but I don't think Remington made a PL11,but rather an SL11.The automatic oilers on the Remington saws were something to be desired (or not).There's a Poulan duck bill that will need to be replaced (most likely),& I believe it's under the oil line,or possibly the impulse line,it's been quite some time since I've been into the Remington oilers.If I'm not mistaken,the SL11 is the same saw as the PL5.
 

edju1958

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I recently acquired a PL5 that's in a sorry state of affairs.I had to use a pipewrench to get the fuel cap off & once off I almost got knocked over from the rancid fumes of old fuel.The tank is corroded so badly that it'll need to be replaced.I believe I have another good tank here that I can use.The popints will need to be cleaned & most likely the condenser is no good.The carb needs a rebuild & a new fuel line is in order.I have the saw torn down to the short block & figured as long as it's down that far I may as well put new crank seals in.Does anyone know what aftermarket seals are used in the PL5?
 

FergusonTO35

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I got this one a few weeks ago from a member over on AS.

View attachment 478224

View attachment 478225

I had to find a few pieces, modify a recoil starter spring from a PM6 (McCulloch), and add a condenser from some old Echo machine. Bar and chain came from a Mini Mac...

View attachment 478226

View attachment 478228

On another matter, I have a request to work on a PL11 with a non-functioning oiler. Does anyone have and insight into how involved working on the oiler on that model will be?

Mark

That looks very much like an early Echo 302, right down to the bottom muffler and tank arrangement.
 

edju1958

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I know that no one is reading my posts here,but I'll ramble on anyway.I think I managed to save the fuel tank.I'd just finished taking a fuel tank off another saw & I was sitting there looking at it when it hit me to take the original tank apart,nothing to lose at that point.Amazingly all 16 screws came out without a problem.Getting the 2 halves apart was another story,but eventually they came apart.I managed to get over 95% of the corrosion out with just a screwdriver.I'll get the rest out with my Dremel tool's wire wheel & some emery cloth.After I'm finishjed I'll give it a dose of Red Kote.I plan on using MotoSeal to form the gasket.

I still need the aftermarket crank seals for this saw.
 

pastryguyhawaii

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Going by the left over seals in my stash:

It could be National 253747 (.625” x .875” x .125”) or National 314267N (.625” x 1.0” x .125”)

Maybe one of each. I really don’t remember.

A Koyo BH-108 drawn cup needle bearing fits.
This is from Carl about five years ago. I went through my PL-5 so long ago I don’t remember either.
 

hacskaroly

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Does anyone know what aftermarket seals are used in the PL5?
I know that no one is reading my posts here,but I'll ramble on anyway.
Going by what @pastryguyhawaii just posted, if you can measure your seals and compare to the dimensions above it may end up being it! I just picked up a PL-5 from an auction and have not torn into it yet, though it looks like it is complete and in pretty good shape. I am sure the carb and fuel lines will need to be redone - heck if you confirm if the above seals will work, I might go ahead and replace these too. Here is an image of the original part number, not sure if you might get a luck google search which might turn up a cross reference to an AM seal that will work.

1776053649599.png
 
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Al Smith

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Now let me get this straight ..You're looking at OEM number 65194 ? If so give me an hour or so when the sun rises I'll get out the master interchange book and take a look see .It's still o dark 30 here .I get up before the chickens most of the time .
 

Al Smith

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The
Remington RM-1 (Part #65194) oil seal
, designed for older models like the SL-11A, SL-4A, and PL-4, typically features an inner diameter of 1 inch and an outer diameter of approximately 1.378 inches (approx. 25.4mm x 35mm). It is a specialized, often discontinued, part used for crankcase sealing.
Key Details regarding the
Remington 65194 (RM-1) Seal
:

  • Part Number: 65194 (often referred to as RM-1).
  • Application: Crankcase oil seal.
  • Fits Models: Remington SL-11A, SL-4A, PL-4, and others.
  • Dimensions: Usually 1" ID x 1.378" OD.
  • Availability: Primarily found as "New Old Stock" (NOS) from specialized vendors like Chainsawr.
 

Al Smith

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To the above I just plain could not find it .I think the best shot is going by size if you can measure it .I'll give it another go later by size .This danged interchange book can nearly drive you blind looking at a zillion little numbers. Maybe Google can find it.
 
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hacskaroly

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Here are a few pics of the saw I picked up, looking in the carb box and fuel tank, it looks a lot better than I expected. Seems that someone has gone through this not too long ago. Definitely needs a new chain, down to nubs. The clutch cover is cracked, so I might look for another one of those at some point. I have a Husky 55 and 545 in line to finish before I get in to this and clean it up and see what all it needs.
 

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