Post up your ported cylinder Artwork

[Mastermind]

Whats best method for removing the bulk of material on top transfers? I've experimented with a few cutters on my right angle handpiece but it vibrates alot and can't seem to get a smooth or reasonable cut. Is there something that works best or is it normal to get this?

I use these. https://ebay.us/m/5W2RYt

Takes practice. Start on the left side. Wide open. Straight up to the stopping point.

 

[MustangMike]

I know that OEM plating is generally harder than AM plating, but I would practice on an AM cylinder before ruining an OEM cylinder.

That was a big part of the reason I played with AM saws ... also to learn a little about porting.

When I do some porting (I'm a real amateur) I look at it like sketching, not drawing. Just do a little at a time and "drift" into where you want to go. A lot of cleaning, and a lot of checking to see what you are doing.

I also stole Randy's method of cutting business cards and using them to draw my horizontal lines from the squish band.

 

[legdelimber]

Are you folks running any sort of lube or solvent on the diamond grit tools?
I seem to recall some discussion of it while running the burrs, but don't remember if anything was said about the diamond coated tools.
Granted your bit speed, sharpness of grit, particle spacing & size and the material type(s) all have a part in things gumming or shedding etc..

 

[NZsaws]

I use these. https://ebay.us/m/5W2RYt

Takes practice. Start on the left side. Wide open. Straight up to the stopping point.

Thanks, will try that next time.

 

[Mastermind]

Are you folks running any sort of lube or solvent on the diamond grit tools?
I seem to recall some discussion of it while running the burrs, but don't remember if anything was said about the diamond coated tools.
Granted your bit speed, sharpness of grit, particle spacing & size and the material type(s) all have a part in things gumming or shedding etc..

I don't use anything on the diamond burrs.

 

[MAF143]

Did some more work on the uppers and they are way better than they were before and I've figured out a lot from the advice given especially from the chief cook and bottle washer... I'm not sure if I can get this particular cylinder looking much better but it's been a great experience and if I end up doing any more saws I feel like I have the confidence that it will be better than this one. Confidence can be a double edged sword but I will approach any future project carefully. Thanks all for the feedback and I'll post how it turns out once I get some run time on it (unless it turns out to be an embarrassing turd)... LOL





I got the aiming kinda where I want it... hoping that it works well... I would have preferred a smoother transition from the flatter roof intake side of the upper to the sloped roof exhaust side that opens 2* before the intake side trying to aim for the spark plug, kinda... My skills aren't there yet (if ever). Not exactly artwork, more like my version of a stick-man portrait.

 

[legdelimber]

MAF143 Keep the photos comming. Nothin to hide when you're asking and learning.

Back in the 70's? Before most cylinder went from having liners, to being hard plated.
We broke-arsed teenagers grabbed round files and heated a spot and bent it and quenched it as quickly as we could.
Then we could reach into a dirt bike cylinder to assault the upper transfer tops.
We even tried sandpaper wrapped longways around a toothbrush handle or whatever else, to poke into the tunnels.
I think we got more raw finger tips than we got metal shaping , in the balance.
But danged if it wasn't good Saturday & Sunday afternoon sitting under the carport, a couple of us molesting the cylinders while the grownups played cards and talked trash at us.
As for the exhaust port? A good moment back then? ... "Oh man check it out. Waldo found us a set of those 1/4 inch shank grinding stones in the GlobeMaster Tools table at the store! So go get yer drill dude."

 

[Mastermind]

The first cylinder I ever "ported" was done with a broken piece of round file in a drill.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I hopefully will get back to the 201t cylinder I started weeks ago now that I have a new top handle to replace the broken one on the dropped saw. I’ve decided that after messing with the insides of a 201t handle it’s well worth the money to just buy a new complete one and bolt it on harness and everything. Storms have been nuts up here all summer and I’ve been cleaning up my own trees, working over time and trying to keep the tree services in working saws. Some of them are booking jobs for next year already because they have so much. I’ll post pictures of the 201t cylinder for inspection and advise when I finish it.

 

[wcorey]

Did some more work on the uppers and they are way better than they were before and I've figured out a lot from the advice given especially from the chief cook and bottle washer... I'm not sure if I can get this particular cylinder looking much better but it's been a great experience and if I end up doing any more saws I feel like I have the confidence that it will be better than this one. Confidence can be a double edged sword but I will approach any future project carefully. Thanks all for the feedback and I'll post how it turns out once I get some run time on it (unless it turns out to be an embarrassing turd)... LOL

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View attachment 465838

I got the aiming kinda where I want it... hoping that it works well... I would have preferred a smoother transition from the flatter roof intake side of the upper to the sloped roof exhaust side that opens 2* before the intake side trying to aim for the spark plug, kinda... My skills aren't there yet (if ever). Not exactly artwork, more like my version of a stick-man portrait.

An old trick for easily flattening out the upper transfers and also squaring the corners is to use a couple stacked dremel type abrasive cutoff wheels on a straight handpiece. Doesn't get you in very deep but it's a good starting point and then when switching to the aggressive burrs lets you stay more inside the port and out of the 'danger zone' at the edges .

 

[MustangMike]

My friend Harold and I also revived 2 Stihl Pro saws today. Harold installed a spark plug insert in a MS461 that had stripped, and I did the rest of the work to get it running.

Harold has done a ton of work on Motorcycles, but not so much on chainsaws, so I walked him through cleaning the cylinder, using Randy's method, (and porting it a little) and installing a new Meteor piston in a burned up MS660.

We also modded the muffler (a 1/2" hole through the back of the baffle and two 1/4" holes in the upper right side of the muffler cover) and pulled the carb limiters.

We did not have the time to put a timing wheel on it, or to advance the timing, so I just flattened both the exhaust and intake ports a bit.

I also showed him why it was better to use the OEM piston pin (lighter, less vibrations) and ring clips (they are more reliable than the ones with ears).

We fired it up, tuned it a bit, and it sounded strong ... Harold had a big grin on his face. He had told me "he wanted one of those" after running one of my 660s up at the cabin, so when someone gave this low hour burned up one to Matt, we put Harold's name on it!

This is the piston that came out of it, both rings were pinched solid. Did not have any time to take pictures when we were working on it.

 

[MAF143]

got some time this morning and assembled the 660 clone. I did a few heat cycles and tuned it by ear. Then went over in the white oak pile and cut some small stuff with 4 or 5 second bursts to use up a tank of gas. Nothing special, just wanting to break it in slow and easy.

Second tank I worked into a little bigger stuff then cut a couple of 16" white oak cookies. This was the quicker of the two. Sounds good to me, I'm happy with it. It'll get used a while and we'll see if it comes alive a little more.