Post up your ported cylinder Artwork

[drf256]

Speaking of Dremel....

My feet hurt. Sometimes, they hurt bad. now....WTF has this got to do with a Dremel?

Welp.....I use a Foredom.

But wait.....I was talking about Dremel. LOL

Here's the deal. I've been using a foot pedal for a long time. Holding it down has caused me to have tendonitis in my Achilles tendon. Plus.....I have problems with the bottoms of my feet hurting. So......I found a new in the box Dremel desktop control that is rated for 5 amps. My Foredom has a 1.7 amp draw.. Are you picking up what I'm putting down?

Yes. Chicken legs + foot control = no bueno Moobs.

 

[Mastermind]

Yes. Chicken legs + foot control = no bueno Moobs.

Sup my friend ?!?!?!?

 

[huskihl]

Yes. Chicken legs + foot control = no bueno Moobs.

I was headed there. Kudos

 

[drf256]

Sup my friend ?!?!?!?

All good pal. I’ll give you a holler soon.

 

[David Young]

I was headed there. Kudos

yoos guys are advanced I was just gonna say he's old.

Does the desktop control vary from just creeping to WTFO, you set in one spot and thats the rpm you have?

Of course you probably have multiple units. I know you guys change handpieces to change bits. #lifegoals

 

[Mastermind]

yoos guys are advanced I was just gonna say he's old.

Does the desktop control vary from just creeping to WTFO, you set in one spot and thats the rpm you have?

Of course you probably have multiple units. I know you guys change handpieces to change bits. #lifegoals

Variable speed rheostat. Set it to whatever speed you want.

 

[MAF143]

I'm a rookie but kind of addicted to chainsaws. This isn't exactly artwork but here it is. It's an acquaintance's 660 clone that he wanted warmed up. I thought I would try the 288 piston swap to get the intake and exhaust ports wider and get a lighter piston in there.

Enough arc on the roof to keep from hanging a ring. I matched the port roof arc on the piston so it acts more like a flatter roof. Muffler had to get raised a bunch cuz the intake roof was so high... had to keep the ring ends from hanging over there.


Intake floor was crazy low to start with and then dropping the cylinder added to the JB blob... There was a spiral scratch in the cylinder plating from the factory and the intake looked almost like a casting void. I can't imagine this saw ran well out of the box. There's over a 1/4" of epoxy in there...




I kept the roof of the intake side of the uppers as flat as I could and raised the exhaust side and let it angle more to the exhaust side of the combustion chamber. This is my first cylinder using the right angle grinder head. I did a little practice on a smoked cylinder first to get the "feel".


Nothing like all you pro's here, but I'm sure this will run better than before. it maps out at 100 / 121 / 81 and I'll put a couple tanks of gas thru it there, but may end up raising the uppers. He doesn't have a real long bar so he may want it revving a little more.

Thanks to everyone here that is so sharing with knowledge so hacks like me and my friends that can't afford a real saw can have a better saw...

 

[Mastermind]

I'm a rookie but kind of addicted to chainsaws. This isn't exactly artwork but here it is. It's an acquaintance's 660 clone that he wanted warmed up. I thought I would try the 288 piston swap to get the intake and exhaust ports wider and get a lighter piston in there.

Enough arc on the roof to keep from hanging a ring. I matched the port roof arc on the piston so it acts more like a flatter roof. Muffler had to get raised a bunch cuz the intake roof was so high... had to keep the ring ends from hanging over there.
View attachment 465190

Intake floor was crazy low to start with and then dropping the cylinder added to the JB blob... There was a spiral scratch in the cylinder plating from the factory and the intake looked almost like a casting void. I can't imagine this saw ran well out of the box. There's over a 1/4" of epoxy in there...
View attachment 465191


View attachment 465192
I kept the roof of the intake side of the uppers as flat as I could and raised the exhaust side and let it angle more to the exhaust side of the combustion chamber. This is my first cylinder using the right angle grinder head. I did a little practice on a smoked cylinder first to get the "feel".
View attachment 465194

Nothing like all you pro's here, but I'm sure this will run better than before. it maps out at 100 / 121 / 81 and I'll put a couple tanks of gas thru it there, but may end up raising the uppers. He doesn't have a real long bar so he may want it revving a little more.

Thanks to everyone here that is so sharing with knowledge so hacks like me and my friends that can't afford a real saw can have a better saw...

A few tips....if you don't mind.

Look at the top of the intake port in relation to the piston skirt and ring. Most likely you can raise it to gain area.

On the upper transfer ports, if possible try to square up the corners to gain area when they first crack open.

 

[MustangMike]

See how it runs, but some of my 660s (w/o Husky pistons) seemed to like the Exhaust at 96-98 and the intake at 82-83.

I was told by someone (who built a strong running 660 for someone I knew) that the 660s like different #s than 440 or 460s because of the longer stroke.

One of the saws I did this way dynoed at 8.6 Hp with a broad power curve. It has a Cross jug with some machine work, but I did the final port work to the exhaust and intake. It is running a 660 Meteor piston.

After the cylinder came back to me with the machine work done, the #s were 100 - 120 and 80. The work looked beautiful and the saw ran well, but it did not "wow" me. I moved the #s on the intake and exhaust and slightly flattened (being careful to keep good bevels) both the top of the exhaust and bottom of the intake. The saw was much improved after this (actually, 2 of them). My thought process is that it is important to get the most flow possible from both the exhaust and intake when they first open, as that is when the pressure is the greatest.

I cannot say what will or will not work on any particular saw. I have learned over the years that what works on one saw may not work on another, and it often just depends on your "style" of porting, etc.

On both saws, I advanced the timing by taking .020 off the key. I left the Asian carburetors stock, and they worked just fine.

Hope this helps, but you never know unless you try. If you want to try different #s w/o changing your jug, just get an extra piston and modify it at the intake and exhaust ports to see what happens. It if works, then you can modify your jug and put the original piston back in. If it does not work, just take the piston out.

 

[farminkarman]

A few tips....if you don't mind.

Look at the top of the intake port in relation to the piston skirt and ring. Most likely you can raise it to gain area.

On the upper transfer ports, if possible try to square up the corners to gain area when they first crack open. View attachment 465199

+1 @MAF143 Definitely don't need that much arc in the exhaust roof, and as Randy said, try to tighten up the upper corners on the transfers...keep em tight as far back into the transfers as you can. Also, as @MustangMike mentioned, you might want to consider taking your exhaust up a couple degrees. I would take the transfers up a couple degrees too.

 

[MAF143]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll do a little trimming on those corners and run it a little to see how it feels. I've read through a lot of the threads on the 660 and am trying to learn as much about the good and bad as possible. I will play with the uppers a little to try to square those roof corners off.

I did do a little carb work and .015 off the key for ignition timing already.

The intake roof is about as high as I can get it cuz the ring on the 288 piston comes down to within .015" of the top of the chamfer and I'd rather leave a little on the table than hang a ring. I'll see if I can square that floor up a little more on that intake to gain a little more flow.

The picture of the exhaust roof makes it look a little more curved than it really is. I did match the piston crown along the roof of the exhaust so it behaves like it's flatter. I've done that on a couple of my saws and it feels like it helps but I didn't do any timed cuts on just that mod.

Thanks to all of you. This is a learning experience for me and I'm enjoying the time playing with saws to get some gains to make heating the house easier and more fun... My friends all thank you as well. They all think I'm a magician with saws, and I tell them I just know who to listen to and how to look at pictures... You guys are the big brains, I'm just watching from the peanut gallery...

I have a neighbor with a clone saw just like this one with just a BGD, timing advance, lowers opened up, and MM. It pulls a 42" bar well in a huge White Oak. We used it on this blow down a few weeks ago.





Monte

 

[Mastermind]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll do a little trimming on those corners and run it a little to see how it feels. I've read through a lot of the threads on the 660 and am trying to learn as much about the good and bad as possible. I will play with the uppers a little to try to square those roof corners off.

I did do a little carb work and .015 off the key for ignition timing already.

The intake roof is about as high as I can get it cuz the ring on the 288 piston comes down to within .015" of the top of the chamfer and I'd rather leave a little on the table than hang a ring. I'll see if I can square that floor up a little more on that intake to gain a little more flow.

The picture of the exhaust roof makes it look a little more curved than it really is. I did match the piston crown along the roof of the exhaust so it behaves like it's flatter. I've done that on a couple of my saws and it feels like it helps but I didn't do any timed cuts on just that mod.

Thanks to all of you. This is a learning experience for me and I'm enjoying the time playing with saws to get some gains to make heating the house easier and more fun... My friends all thank you as well. They all think I'm a magician with saws, and I tell them I just know who to listen to and how to look at pictures... You guys are the big brains, I'm just watching from the peanut gallery...

I have a neighbor with a clone saw just like this one with just a BGD, timing advance, lowers opened up, and MM. It pulls a 42" bar well in a huge White Oak. We used it on this blow down a few weeks ago.

View attachment 465208

View attachment 465209

Monte

I absolutely love seeing guys get into this stuff. Anytime you need advice on anything....don't hesitate to reach out.

 

[srcarr52]

The picture of the exhaust roof makes it look a little more curved than it really is. I did match the piston crown along the roof of the exhaust so it behaves like it's flatter. I've done that on a couple of my saws and it feels like it helps but I didn't do any timed cuts on just that mod.

Trace the exhaust port opening onto the piston skirt with a pencil so you can see the shape better.

 

[drf256]

It’s unfortunate that Stihl took a step backwards with the 54mm “upgrade” from the 52mm 064 cylinder.

I still don’t understand why they cast the 54mm jugs with the huge sloppy rounded uppers.

 

[MustangMike]

Al, I remember you did some incredible work on my Hybrid, and I used it yesterday to drop this large Sugar Maple stem. The 28" bar was just the right length, and I really appreciate the incredible power to weight of this saw.

It is a concoction of an AM case and tank holder (yea, I wanted all flippy caps instead of one of each), an OEM 044 12mm crank, a 046-D jug, and a Husky piston.

This saw will pull 28" full comp in hardwood like nothing. I really appreciate the light weight when working around obstacles. This stem had to be dropped right along a rock wall to come down clean, and it was no problem with this saw.

This was a favor for the cousin of my brother's other half. Was glad we got done in the AM as it got very hot yesterday afternoon. My brother was over there previously cutting up the top (that was removed by a storm) with the 462 you ported for him, but he did not feel comfortable dropping the stem.

I may go back and mill this stem. It is straight and over 12', but I would prefer more weather resistant wood.

 

[MAF143]

I got some time this evening to rework the ports. Still not real artwork, but tried to follow the advice given. Ended up 98 / 118 / 81 with squish at .023".

The uppers are tough for me and wasn't able to make the squared corners like the pros... One end went fairly well, but the other end working in the chatter quadrant of the bit I didn't do as well so added more width to get a little more flow at opening. Low score on symmetry.

I widened and squared off the intake floor and double checked the roof to ring clearance and it's even closer than I had thought, only about .005" from the top of the chamfer to the bottom of the ring groove at BDC.

I squared off the exhaust port with a little flatter roof than before.





The intake floor is way flatter than the picture makes it look.






Thx again for the tips and feedback. If I can get some shop time tomorrow, I'll try to get this thing back together. I may have some clearance issues yet to work through on the intake side since the jug got dropped so far. I've got the other clearance issues cleared so far.

It will get run like this for a while at least.

 

[Mastermind]

I got some time this evening to rework the ports. Still not real artwork, but tried to follow the advice given. Ended up 98 / 118 / 81 with squish at .023".

The uppers are tough for me and wasn't able to make the squared corners like the pros... One end went fairly well, but the other end working in the chatter quadrant of the bit I didn't do as well so added more width to get a little more flow at opening. Low score on symmetry.

I widened and squared off the intake floor and double checked the roof to ring clearance and it's even closer than I had thought, only about .005" from the top of the chamfer to the bottom of the ring groove at BDC.

I squared off the exhaust port with a little flatter roof than before.

View attachment 465602

View attachment 465603

The intake floor is way flatter than the picture makes it look.
View attachment 465605

View attachment 465606

View attachment 465607

Thx again for the tips and feedback. If I can get some shop time tomorrow, I'll try to get this thing back together. I may have some clearance issues yet to work through on the intake side since the jug got dropped so far. I've got the other clearance issues cleared so far.

It will get run like this for a while at least.

Looking good. I don't use a single or double cut burr to tidy up the corners of the upper transfer ports. I use a 180 grit diamond burr. Look for sets on Amazon or Ebay with lots of shapes. They can be used for adding your bevels with a right angle too.

 

[MAF143]

I do have a set of the diamond balls of various sizes but I'll order some of the various shaped ones as well. I'll cut the stems on a couple of those to work in the RA.

Another rookie overlooked, simple, logical, practical answer... Thx again for keeping me between the ditches...

I normally do the bevels with a set of shaped diamond files, but a diamond burr would make short work of that.

 

[MustangMike]

My brother and I were unable to start his Asian MS660 on Friday, so today I took a look at it.

Checked the air filter and plug, both looked OK, so I primed the carb a bit and she fired but would not run - must be a fuel problem.

Replaced the fuel filter, and that and the fuel line both looked OK.

Pulled the cover for the carb and the rest of the fuel line and I think I may have found the problem!

Luckily, I keep a supply of Stihl fuel line in stock, so I was able to fix it w/o even going to the store!

Runs like a clock!

 

[NZsaws]

Looking good. I don't use a single or double cut burr to tidy up the corners of the upper transfer ports. I use a 180 grit diamond burr. Look for sets on Amazon or Ebay with lots of shapes. They can be used for adding your bevels with a right angle too.

Whats best method for removing the bulk of material on top transfers? I've experimented with a few cutters on my right angle handpiece but it vibrates alot and can't seem to get a smooth or reasonable cut. Is there something that works best or is it normal to get this?