dall
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- Local time
- 6:03 AM
- User ID
- 795
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2016
- Messages
- 48,770
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- Location
- grafton wv

Yes sir! Operated one for 11yrs straight. Awesome machineI'm pretty sure @Keith Gandy used to use one almost daily.
you get the work done with this tool too (you just need to be patience):Anyone have one of the these I could operate for a few hours? Would love to hang out in there and move some stuffs around.View attachment 245168
that’s about his speedyou get the work done with this tool too (you just need to be patience):
View attachment 245174
92' 3 or 4 throttle body truck with the limp dik motorwhat year Tahoe
parts won’t interchange ? Same body style92' 3 or 4 throttle body truck with the limp dik motor
Does it work well and run a program diagnostics and reset tests like purging this pia thing?
Did anyone tell you to GFY yet today?that’s about his speed
only thing more than check codes and clear was a crank relearn after changing computersDoes it work well and run a program diagnostics and reset tests like purging this pia thing?
lol you may be the firstDid anyone tell you to GFY yet today?
I’m with you I’ve never had to hook computer to do brakesI have never once had to use a scan tool, pull a fuse, stand on my head or call a Jamaican voodoo priest to get brakes bled on a 90's Chev truck.
It can be a pain in the ass, but with 2 people, rather easy.
One needs to pump the pedal with the key on, and hold. Key on so you can see the red brake indicator.
If the indicator is on, pump again, may even have to kick the pedal quickly to get it to go off.
When the light is on, the prop valve is closing off fluid to the rear.
Hold pedal.
Guy #2 opens right rear bleeder while #1 keeps pressure on pedal.
Close bleeder. Repeat process until no air.
Then go to left rear.
then right front.
then left front.
Or, just take the *frenching thing to someone who can fix it and be done.
I have never once had to use a scan tool, pull a fuse, stand on my head or call a Jamaican voodoo priest to get brakes bled on a 90's Chev truck.
It can be a pain in the ass, but with 2 people, rather easy.
One needs to pump the pedal with the key on, and hold. Key on so you can see the red brake indicator.
If the indicator is on, pump again, may even have to kick the pedal quickly to get it to go off.
When the light is on, the prop valve is closing off fluid to the rear.
Hold pedal.
Guy #2 opens right rear bleeder while #1 keeps pressure on pedal.
Close bleeder. Repeat process until no air.
Then go to left rear.
then right front.
then left front.
Or, just take the *frenching thing to someone who can fix it and be done.
I know they are different but its just steel lines. Matching the system up for my ten inch brakes to 11.2 can be "touchy" we will call it. The cylinders volume has a lot to do with pedal travel on both the master and the rear wheel cylinders. I fixed a lot of these miss match brake combos and tend to know what does what. Most guys set it all up and then miss the ball on pedal travel so they put on a bigger master cylinder bore and lose brake pressure at the wheels. Most of them will live with excessive brake pedal travel, touchy pedal when it grabs because of a small bore master and large wheel cylinders, I won't. You have to change the pedal ratio buy moving the pivot points or sometimes just the main pin if it has one. It's right or not. You can mix stuff carefully. Lines are easy to make. Having an adjustable bias is priceless. 60/40 is good for dry road empty but these brakes were never anywhere near that. 70/30 maybe on a good day... they suck when run it. Good for about a weekparts won’t interchange ? Same body style
I have never once had to use a scan tool, pull a fuse, stand on my head or call a Jamaican voodoo priest to get brakes bled on a 90's Chev truck.
It can be a pain in the ass, but with 2 people, rather easy.
One needs to pump the pedal with the key on, and hold. Key on so you can see the red brake indicator.
If the indicator is on, pump again, may even have to kick the pedal quickly to get it to go off.
When the light is on, the prop valve is closing off fluid to the rear.
Hold pedal.
Guy #2 opens right rear bleeder while #1 keeps pressure on pedal.
Close bleeder. Repeat process until no air.
Then go to left rear.
then right front.
then left front.
Or, just take the *frenching thing to someone who can fix it and be done.
so you are saying when he’s older you will have a baseball team from him ? if he takes after pops pumpingMy 10 year old is pretty good and pumping the brakes.
I never do it with the key on and they turn out pretty good.
so you are saying when he’s older you will have a baseball team from him ? if he takes after pops pumping
humpers and pumpers dammit get it rightAfternoon humpers.
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