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I'm shopping for valve springs this morning.
Your address is?...You really wouldn’t be able to see anything. Really all you can tell is that she’s nekkid and brushing her hair. Second story window, just a little too high to see anything good. Now the guy that lives across the street and works the nights shift... I can understand why he’s in such a hurry to get home...
Evening ToddGlad all is well buddy
Got this back together, and took it out for a drive.View attachment 264711
Me tooIam in love with the last pic Dave![]()
Ed King
AgreedIt all depends on what you want out of it. The Cleveland is a performer at high rpm, but lacks torque at lower speeds.
And the open chamber head engines were bad for detonation. The quench area was loose and velocity was poor.
With domed pistons, and the right camshaft, they became a different animal.
To me, a 351C with 2V heads and a 4V intake made to fit those heads were good street engines. The 4V heads had huge intake ports that were horrible at anything under 3500 rpm.
All relative to what the intended use of the engine is.
Agreed
1969 351C 2V was the strongest factory motor available in those imo for a stick shift work truck. I used one with no AM cam in my 77' F150 4x4, top loader with custom made motor mounts. Good solid work truck set up. MoFoCo Holley deuce on a one inch plate under it was my only top end engine part swap. Added set of decent headers with 2" dual exhaust for good economy.
One of Fords best offerings.
Just have no love for those heads, early or late model. Ported a few and did a built up 390 for a guy or three. Plus I'm not a Ford guy. If I was the 427 old school or a 428CJ would be my performance pick anyway. Stock, to drive a stick shift truck, 351C 2V heads as Randal stated. Lincoln mark VIII weren't bad runners when brandy new with the HO V8.What about the Y block?
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According to the serial number a 1500, but it's pretty strong if it's still a 1500. Not sure what the future holds for it lol.Very cool Mike - what motor does that one have in it?
Comp 910 I have the valve spring micrometer if you need one to set up your installed height.I'm shopping for valve springs this morning.
Steel or cast crank motor?According to the serial number a 1500, but it's pretty strong if it's still a 1500. Not sure what the future holds for it lol.
Hey & GFYmorning slacker
Steel I believe. Being this old no way to tell without tearing it down.Steel or cast crank motor?
64-69 some 1970 motors. They stopped steel cranks around 70' in the big three car HO engines. Trucks went a bit long but most had dried up by 74'. I'm sure exceptions are out there.Steel I believe. Being this old no way to tell without tearing it down.
According to the serial number it's a 1967 motor. No clue what's done internally. I suspect it's a 1641, but not sure at all. None the less a decent platform to build from.64-69 some 1970 motors. They stopped steel cranks around 70' in the big three car HO engines. Trucks went a bit long but most had dried up by 74'. I'm sure exceptions are out there.
You'll be good either or if the rest is original and nothing is wonky.According to the serial number it's a 1967 motor. No clue what's done internally. I suspect it's a 1641, but not sure at all. None the less a decent platform to build from.