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New chain ( to me)

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Every sharpening manual from Oregon has stated that 5% of the file should be above the top plate, so basically if you are using the correct sized file as intended ,then the side plate/ depth should be getting filed down.
I guess most need a YT personality to feed them the manufacturers original information.
 

Philbert

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Every sharpening manual from Oregon has stated that 5% of the file should be above the top plate,
Correction:

1/5 (20%) of the file diameter should be above the top plate.

This sets the correct cutting bevel angles for the top plate and the side plate. But it does not clean out the gullet. Periodically, you need to reshape the gullet to its original profile, using any round file that fits.

Philbert
 

fossil

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Every sharpening manual from Oregon has stated that 5% of the file should be above the top plate, so basically if you are using the correct sized file as intended ,then the side plate/ depth should be getting filed down.
I guess most need a YT personality to feed them the manufacturers original information.

I'm pretty sure they say 1/5 above the top plate or 20%
 

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1/5 would shave off the top plate too much, 5-15% is what I read.
There's gonna be debate as file size also, as in I prefer 1/4 on my .404 for more side plate geometry. Or the hole 13/64ths file vs 7/32 .
 

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Oops I've been teaching it wrong, lol.
I'll stick too the 5% .
That photo shows the file being held up to the top plate? Like a 3/16th where a 7/32 should be?
 

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That instruction sheet from the historical society? That document is from before US postal addresses had Zip codes! :)

In fairness, some STIHL instructions also used to say 10%.

I think that some of the recommended angles have changed over the years due to research, preferences, changes in the saws and chains (e.g. smaller chains and faster speeds), etc.

Philbert
 
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fossil

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Too low leaves a lot of hook.

I never had much luck doing that.

I did go low on an Oregon semi chisel on my 026 recently and it was way to grabby.

What ever people find that works for them.

Not being too great at hand filing, I use a Granberg if I'm home.

I have one 3/8" chain that cuts like a banshee. I guess I should really measure that one and see where everything is set.
 

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I measured that cutter up as well as I could and came up with a 30 deg top plate angle, 0 deg tilt, and my file (in the Granberg) is 26% above the top plate.

The 26% kind of surprised me.

The chain is a Laser chain (Carlton)

Variables would be that the tooth lengths on this chain are all over the place and are getting filed back a fair way from new. That would mean the profiles on the cutters are a little different along the chain.

Depth gauges are set at 0.025" using a progressive filing gauge.

I certainly find that the further back the cutter is filed, the faster the chain cuts.
The chain looks a bit of a joke but it rips!

DSCN1768.JPG

pics of one of the cutters.

DSCN1766.JPG
 

species8472

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I measured that cutter up as well as I could and came up with a 30 deg top plate angle, 0 deg tilt, and my file (in the Granberg) is 26% above the top plate.

The 26% kind of surprised me.

The chain is a Laser chain (Carlton)

Variables would be that the tooth lengths on this chain are all over the place and are getting filed back a fair way from new. That would mean the profiles on the cutters are a little different along the chain.

Depth gauges are set at 0.025" using a progressive filing gauge.

I certainly find that the further back the cutter is filed, the faster the chain cuts.
The chain looks a bit of a joke but it rips!

View attachment 317315

pics of one of the cutters.

View attachment 317314
That chain should do well in fresh softer wood. Might be a different story in dry hard stuff.
 
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