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Moparmyway

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She got hot today

Could keep fingers on the handle near the opening above the clutch cover, wasn’t able to do that before the deflector.

4 tanks back to back in white oak, no issues. I would really like to mess with a saw that has issues, maybe my muffler mod is helping too much ?
 

woodfarmer

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I picked up a new style cover this weekend. The plastic where you mounted your deflector is trimmed back, so less material to rivet the deflector to.
What would putting a piece of rubber between the handle and the tank do to prevent heat transfer?
 

kneedeepinsaws

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She got hot today

Could keep fingers on the handle near the opening above the clutch cover, wasn’t able to do that before the deflector.

4 tanks back to back in white oak, no issues. I would really like to mess with a saw that has issues, maybe my muffler mod is helping too much ?
If you look at the new 550mk2 they have alot of added heat protection. More heat is taken away from the engine because the muffler is further away from the case. The extra fins on the top of the cylinder and the deflector for the handle. Point being your muffler mod is probably a huge help but the tipping point in which you eliminated the hot start issue was the deflector you made.
Im gonna mimick what you have and then im going to try some fireproof cloth underneath the muffler to insulate that heat fromthe case. I would mod my muffler but i still have 2 years warranty on this saw.
This is a good thread
 

Moparmyway

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If you look at the new 550mk2 they have alot of added heat protection. More heat is taken away from the engine because the muffler is further away from the case. The extra fins on the top of the cylinder and the deflector for the handle. Point being your muffler mod is probably a huge help but the tipping point in which you eliminated the hot start issue was the deflector you made.
Im gonna mimick what you have and then im going to try some fireproof cloth underneath the muffler to insulate that heat fromthe case. I would mod my muffler but i still have 2 years warranty on this saw.
This is a good thread
Get another mufflor so you modify one
 

woodfarmer

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Do you think the laid back cylinder is causing this. I’ve never had any issues with the dozen or so Jonsered saws with the upright cylinder which appears to have a very similar handle mount?
 

huskyboy

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Do you think the laid back cylinder is causing this. I’ve never had any issues with the dozen or so Jonsered saws with the upright cylinder which appears to have a very similar handle mount?
No not really imo. If you take them apart and observe... the 372xp and jonsered equivalents have a thicker intake partition wall with a “air gap” between. The 562 has a thin wall and imo when the saw sits... the combination of the heat soak thru this thin wall and the gas tank heating up from the hot handle contributes to the vapor lock on them. The rather restrictive muffler doesn’t help either.
 

I saw a lot

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I know this has been covered before, but I am lazy. How hard is it to do a muffler mod on the 562? May work on the above advice on mine. Thanks @Moparmyway and everyone else getting to the bottom of this.
 

Moparmyway

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To answer your question, it depends:

Muffler mods on this type of saw falls into 2 categories

1. Those who try

2. Those that do

Allow me to ‘splain

1. Those who try:
A. They see the internal pipe and don’t know/wanna overcome its shortfalls

B. Those that don’t know what that internal pipe does

2. Those that do:
A. They overcome its intended purpose and use it to make gains

B. They bypass it entirely
 

huskyboy

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To answer your question, it depends:

Muffler mods on this type of saw falls into 2 categories

1. Those who try

2. Those that do

Allow me to ‘splain

1. Those who try:
A. They see the internal pipe and don’t know/wanna overcome its shortfalls

B. Those that don’t know what that internal pipe does

2. Those that do:
A. They overcome its intended purpose and use it to make gains

B. They bypass it entirely
I’m not smart enough to know why they put that silly “crack pipe” under the deflector, but I am smart enough to know its terribly restricted lol. Definitely needs opening up!
 
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kneedeepinsaws

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I’m not smart enough to know why they put that silly “crack pipe” under the deflector, but I am smart enough to know its terribly restricted lol. Definitely needs opening up!
Lol crack pipe!

yes i personally think it helps keep foreign matter out of the exhaust port for the saw when the saw is not in use.
It also could be to help with backpressure to keep fuel from exiting the combustion chamber to quickly on the compression stroke creating better fuel economy, just my thoughts no proof there.

one thing is for certain you will allow the saw to dissipate heat better, there is no question there.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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Could a spacer be made to lessen the contact between tank and handle?View attachment 253845
Good call, another good idea. You could use manifold exhaust tape, a strip of it to protect tank from heat underneath there. You would need a washer to go just under the head of the bolt that isolates heat as well... anyone?

I did this tonight, underneath the muffler the biggest heat source on this machine. I really could use a heat resistant washer for the two bottom bolts... i may use a 572 or 550mkii ones?
i just tested it and i will say that the sound is WAY different, sounds good. The blanket must block sound in some way
2913D6B5-A3D5-41F6-9DD6-0E8A807C044D.jpeg 1A9E595A-D484-4DF1-8DE2-75D840923836.jpeg 2827C858-2BD3-443A-8C47-C7C277D91CF0.jpeg

You can barely see it. Ill test it this weekend,
 

woodfarmer

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I’m going to put some gasket material between the case and handle, but I’ll have to wait until I get my muffler back to test it. Or just put the saw away until winter.
 

Locust Cutter

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I guess I'm lucky, as tough I did have a recall saw (2012 IIRC), after the recall, all as been well. I then bought a properly ported muffler from @Mastermind, and it's been flawless since. It'll start hot or cold, whether 10°F or 110°F, whether it's been off for 5 minutes, or an hour.

Like several mentioned, I do typically let it idle down after running it hard, 15-20 seconds or so in the Winter, and more like 30-60 in the summer, and in between, I run it like a government mule. I do however, usually run 100ll Aviation Fuel in it and the other saws, as it doesn't spoil, or breakdown like the S-word from the pumps, and smells a lot better while being burned. There are a few small airports nearby, so I go fill 5 or 10gal as necessary, and mix them 2.5 at a time, 40:1 with Syn oil. I also have a 550MKI with a plugged decomp, that behaves identically, though the "pop" when cold, is pretty faint, so you have to pay attention. In fact the only thing I have that sees 50:1 are my Stihl KM130, and Stihl blower, as they don't like the heaver oils...

Your mileage may vary.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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I guess I'm lucky, as tough I did have a recall saw (2012 IIRC), after the recall, all as been well. I then bought a properly ported muffler from @Mastermind, and it's been flawless since. It'll start hot or cold, whether 10°F or 110°F, whether it's been off for 5 minutes, or an hour.

Like several mentioned, I do typically let it idle down after running it hard, 15-20 seconds or so in the Winter, and more like 30-60 in the summer, and in between, I run it like a government mule. I do however, usually run 100ll Aviation Fuel in it and the other saws, as it doesn't spoil, or breakdown like the S-word from the pumps, and smells a lot better while being burned. There are a few small airports nearby, so I go fill 5 or 10gal as necessary, and mix them 2.5 at a time, 40:1 with Syn oil. I also have a 550MKI with a plugged decomp, that behaves identically, though the "pop" when cold, is pretty faint, so you have to pay attention. In fact the only thing I have that sees 50:1 are my Stihl KM130, and Stihl blower, as they don't like the heaver oils...

Your mileage may vary.
Sounds like your fuel was key here IMO

can you show us what a properly ported muffler from mastermind looks like?
 

woodfarmer

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I guess I'm lucky, as tough I did have a recall saw (2012 IIRC), after the recall, all as been well. I then bought a properly ported muffler from @Mastermind, and it's been flawless since. It'll start hot or cold, whether 10°F or 110°F, whether it's been off for 5 minutes, or an hour.

Like several mentioned, I do typically let it idle down after running it hard, 15-20 seconds or so in the Winter, and more like 30-60 in the summer, and in between, I run it like a government mule. I do however, usually run 100ll Aviation Fuel in it and the other saws, as it doesn't spoil, or breakdown like the S-word from the pumps, and smells a lot better while being burned. There are a few small airports nearby, so I go fill 5 or 10gal as necessary, and mix them 2.5 at a time, 40:1 with Syn oil. I also have a 550MKI with a plugged decomp, that behaves identically, though the "pop" when cold, is pretty faint, so you have to pay attention. In fact the only thing I have that sees 50:1 are my Stihl KM130, and Stihl blower, as they don't like the heaver oils...

Your mileage may vary.
Wow, I was told by a mechanic never to run A.V. fuel as it’ll burn way too hot. How long have you been doing that for? what was the recall on the 2012?
 

kneedeepinsaws

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Wow, I was told by a mechanic never to run A.V. fuel as it’ll burn way too hot. How long have you been doing that for? what was the recall on the 2012?
Never heard of that, but i have heard that aviation fuel is leaded.
87-92+ octane all burn at the same temp, only difference is the antiknock capabilities. If im not mistaken aviation fuel has lead in it to give it a superior anti knock capability
 
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