New 562 xp

[I saw a lot]

I wonder if your tank vent was giving you issues. When you removed the fuel cap the vacuum surge caused the bubbles.

I've seen lots of fuel boiling in a alloy crankcase fuel tank but never in a poly thermal isolated tank.

That could be very true. I didn't try super hard to restart it as the heat was getting to me and I had to drag the wood uphill to the truck. If I would have asked the homeowner instead of relying on the pictures, my bad, I would have skipped the score but it is nice hard maple. Nice having multiple saws to work with and soon will have a 550xpg in the lineup.

 

[Catman]

OK, I don’t like to get involved in these types of threads, this is how I start my 2019 562 no matter what the temperature even if I run it out of fuel, hold the throttle wide open with your right hand pull the rope with your left hand starts every time!Don’t touch the decompression valve and don’t do anything with the fast idle speed.

 

[huskyboy]

That could be very true. I didn't try super hard to restart it as the heat was getting to me and I had to drag the wood uphill to the truck. If I would have asked the homeowner instead of relying on the pictures, my bad, I would have skipped the score but it is nice hard maple. Nice having multiple saws to work with and soon will have a 550xpg in the lineup.

Mine was boiling the fuel in the tank too. Today’s pump fuels suck. That’s part of the problem. They boil at as low as 100-110 degrees. Which is not all that hard to achieve with a hot saw and hot tank sitting in the sun. Leave the fuel in the shade. When temps climb past 80 degrees... the 562 is about the last saw I would choose for the job. My metal tank jonsered 930 never had problems in the heat. It’s all in the design and running temperature of the saw.... it doesn’t take long for excessive heat to soak into the gas tank that’s sitting 1” away from the cases. With the 572 it always starts in the heat and it’s easy to see why looking at the improvements they made. One major improvement is the air deflector that pushes most of the heat away from the handlebar. Touch the pto side of the handlebar on a 562 or older gen 1 550 after some run time. Stick your finger into the gas tank and feel how hot it is in there... It’s transferring all that heat into the gas tank.... a real design flaw that is pretty obvious. 562 is a fantastic saw... but not in above 80 degrees, especially with a stock muffler. I hope they update it like the 572 and 550 mk2.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Mine was boiling the fuel in the tank too. Today’s pump fuels suck. That’s part of the problem. They boil at as low as 100-110 degrees. Which is not all that hard to achieve with a hot saw and hot tank sitting in the sun. Leave the fuel in the shade. When temps climb past 80 degrees... the 562 is about the last saw I would choose for the job. My metal tank jonsered 930 never had problems in the heat. It’s all in the design and running temperature of the saw.... it doesn’t take long for excessive heat to soak into the gas tank that’s sitting 1” away from the cases. With the 572 it always starts in the heat and it’s easy to see why looking at the improvements they made. One major improvement is the air deflector that pushes most of the heat away from the handlebar. Touch the pto side of the handlebar on a 562 or older gen 1 550 after some run time. Stick your finger into the gas tank and feel how hot it is in there... It’s transferring all that heat into the gas tank.... a real design flaw that is pretty obvious. 562 is a fantastic saw... but not in above 80 degrees, especially with a stock muffler. I hope they update it like the 572 and 550 mk2.

What do you mean it pushes the heat away from the handlebar? How does this affect the fuel tank? Very curious here

 

[cuinrearview]

The handlebar mounts to the fuel tank

 

[huskyboy]

What do you mean it pushes the heat away from the handlebar? How does this affect the fuel tank? Very curious here

What @cuinrearview said, and here’s some pictures to help understand. This is my 572 but it’s the same idea. See how the handle is directly in path of hot air exiting cylinder? They added this plastic duct to help redirect the air forward. The 562 does not have this and the handle gets quite hot. The heat then moves to the tank the handle is bolted to.

 

[Willard]

Here's what I did to my 2012 562 a few months ago. Looking at @huskyboy 's 572XP pic above it looks like Husqvarna did the same removing the 572's top cover's bottom edge and side flange behind the handle too.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

What @cuinrearview said, and here’s some pictures to help understand. View attachment 249944This is my 572 but it’s the same idea. See how the handle is directly in path of hot air exiting cylinder? View attachment 249945They added this plastic duct to help redirect the air forward. The 562 does not have this and the handle gets quite hot. The heat then moves to the tank the handle is bolted to.

Ok that clears things up thank you for posting that!!!! the second shot isnt clear in my head but what your saying is normally hot air from the cylinder is blown onto the handle. Heat from the handle travels to the tank which causes vapor lock?
this piece of plastic instead re-directs air forward of the cylinder instead of directly on the handle?
I remember my 550 handle handle would get incredibly hot and i always thought it was heat soak from the anti vibe spring...
This thread is really kicking ass and taking names identifying a very common problem with a very good saw.
I wonder if we could insulate the handle or make our own re-directed fin to do the same thing?

 

[pwheel]

The logger working next door uses a 562 for a landing saw and swears by it. Definitely mm'd from the ripping sound it makes.
FWIW, I wonder if loading the fuel mix container in a junk cooler with freezer packs before heading out to the job would help with vapor lock & other heat problems.

 

[fdhamlin]

Ok that clears things up thank you for posting that!!!! the second shot isnt clear in my head but what your saying is normally hot air from the cylinder is blown onto the handle. Heat from the handle travels to the tank which causes vapor lock?
this piece of plastic instead re-directs air forward of the cylinder instead of directly on the handle?
I remember my 550 handle handle would get incredibly hot and i always thought it was heat soak from the anti vibe spring...
This thread is really kicking ass and taking names identifying a very common problem with a very good saw.
I wonder if we could insulate the handle or make our own re-directed fin to do the same thing?

Maybe a spacer behind the handle might help. A little bit of daylight shouldn't hurt.

 

[huskyhank]

This might help if applied to the gas tank.
It worked for me on a dirt bike.

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Reflective-Gold-Heat-Shield/2861429/10002/-1

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

This might help if applied to the gas tank.
It worked for me on a dirt bike.

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Reflective-Gold-Heat-Shield/2861429/10002/-1

I got something somewhat similar, i wrapped the backside of the handle that is exposed to engine heat.
Dont have time to go out and cut till the weekend, got bored and wanted to do something with the saw. Removed the decomp and plugged shroud hole real nice like. Then put the tape on.. time will tell

 

[Flip]

What @cuinrearview said, and here’s some pictures to help understand. View attachment 249944This is my 572 but it’s the same idea. See how the handle is directly in path of hot air exiting cylinder? View attachment 249945They added this plastic duct to help redirect the air forward. The 562 does not have this and the handle gets quite hot. The heat then moves to the tank the handle is bolted to.

Is that duct a part of the brake band cover? I don't see a separate "duct" item on the 572 IPL.

 

[huskyboy]

Is that duct a part of the brake band cover? I don't see a separate "duct" item on the 572 IPL.

Nope, molded as part of the intake wall/shroud.

 

[Flip]

Nope, molded as part of the intake wall/shroud. View attachment 250222

Thanks, now I have to figure out how retrofit it on my 562. I have other brand new 572 parts that I've put a dremel to also.

I will say that I liked my 2012 562 enough that I bought a new 2019 and like it even more(even though it was heavier.) All the gremlins of the 2012 were gone in the new saw. I'm a farmer so I don't use it this time of year so I don't have these heat problems. Easiest starting saw I have in cool weather.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

This might help if applied to the gas tank.
It worked for me on a dirt bike.

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Reflective-Gold-Heat-Shield/2861429/10002/-1

Gonna pull the handle and insulate the tank that is closest to the engine case. Looks like the whole engine is heating up quite a bit, radiating heat from the bottom rear of the case to the tank. A heat shield there should be the most noticable difference.

i did a MM on my 550, opened it way up years ago and it still experienced vapour lock. This weekend im gonna bring my multi meter with the probe and see just hot hot the area between the rear bottom case and the tank gets.

So much stuff to try out this weekend

 

[Crane]

I was extremely frustrated with this saw.
That's why I blogged here.
Not to complain, but to get suggestions to approach the issue.

I'm no longer having issues with hot starts, and have cut on 80°-94° days doing about 15 full cord.
I shade the nursery wagon from direct sun with the saw and fuel/oil.
When the saw has been run and is warm...
I set high idle, no primer bulb, no decompression use.
One pull starts.
The saw gets hot enough to near burn me if I touch the metal oil tank when refueling/bar oil top off.
No problem with vapor lock, period.
I love using this saw.

I've taken a short break from cutting, found some good (mostly hardwood) pallets, and have come up with a way to double stack the 1,500 pound bundles.
Now I'm ready to cut again.

The pallets in the foreground of photo #2 are also double stacked now.
This photo also shows the gravel staying damp under the pallets that I moved. The single rows previously reached the far end of the container, lacking one row.
Something like 116 pallets, 29 cord total on this side of the container, and earlier this spring I stacked 6 cord in the wood shed.

 

[huskyhank]

The other part is to let the heat go somewhere. Reflecting it back off the protected parts puts the heat back to the source. So figure out a way for it to escape. Seems like vent holes in the right places of the body work will help.

 

[dquest]

The other part is to let the heat go somewhere. Reflecting it back off the protected parts puts the heat back to the source. So figure out a way for it to escape. Seems like vent holes in the right places of the body work will help.

Yes, but I'm sure if I do things myself the warranty will be void. I have read about reflective tape and adding more vents than are already there in the cover. Not sure I want the hassle for something that should work at any price

 

[pwheel]

Really, folks. I don't see the sense in modifying a stock saw just to get it to run. If it were me, I'd drop a tree on that saw, ship the pieces to Husqvarna with a nice note, and head to the dealer for a 572xp. Problem solved.