High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

ms880 clone

MustangMike

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I would bring the removed one to the Husky dealer and have him match it.

Some people drill the holes larger, but I think the Husky valves generally come with larger holes.

However, I think there is another issue making your saw so hard to start. Do you know your squish and exhaust height? Are you sure your timing is right?
 

mirage

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I put in the green base gasket that came in the kit. There is a black gasket that came with it also. I wonder if that should have been installed also. I went by the video posted here on page 18.
 

wcorey

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Handle getting ripped out of your hand sounds like too much timing advance.
File half the flywheel key off such that you can rotate/relocate the flywheel a bit clockwise on the crankshaft.
 

Michpatriot

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Check the squish..its quick and easy..spark plug out, stick .030 rosin core solder dangled off the roll into the sparkplug hole and touching the opposite side of the cylinder wall..pull it over..measure the squished solder with a caliper.
 

Michpatriot

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I had a 880 that I was looking to buy a while back act like that and the piston had lots of carbon build up on it causing it to strip the pull cord outa your hand. It went for a full rebuild and runs good now. I didn't end up buying it but took it to a old timer Stihl guy to have it fixed for the guy who was selling it. Nice saw now.
So I would guess the above post about too much oil on a fresh assembly could maybe cause this also.
 

mirage

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I have pulled plug and pulled it over a lot. I will go check squish. This is a new build.
 

mirage

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Ok got .023 and .060 solder. Put the 23 in like y'all said and got no change on the solder. I am guessing the 60 thousand is to big?
 

mirage

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I found some .031 solder. Did what you said. There is no change in the solder
 

mirage

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So I guess thats ok?
 

slackinoff

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Are you putting the solder all the way to the edge of the cylinder wall? Use the .060 solder if the others aren't getting smashed.

@mirage
 

mirage

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I will check again first tomorrow on the squish. I ordered a factory stihl 880 valve for it today. they sure don't give them away.
 

LoneOak

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My 880 is bear to start too. It helps if you roll the piston to top dead center before given'er a yank, even with the comp release pushed. This will give you one full rotation to build enough inertia to roll through the consecutive compression strokes. And hopefully get a running saw.
 

Michpatriot

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Prolly not OSHA recommended but, cranky big bores start better sometimes with the throttle pegged..bar rested fully over a log..bar tip so it won't touch anything when it comes alive..with practice its easier when yer sapped and got to cut a bunch more. Right hand on the grip with the throttle pegged and pull with left, kinda shove the saw forward and at the same time rip the cord..if the tip got a hold of anything I'd say it would toss the saw right over your head so be careful and wear your Kevlar blanket at all times.
 

Michpatriot

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You could also try this: kill switch in the off position, full throttle, 7-8 pulls, release throttle then with switch still off slowly pull just past top of compression stroke, carefully let the recoil back in, switch in the high idle position, and give it the best yank you can muster. If its gonna I'd say this will get a light.
 

Mattyo

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have you taken off the flywheel and checked the key yet?

does it run for a little while with some mix down the throat?
 

Maintenance Chief

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I have had my 088 snatch the handle from me more than once if the cylinder has alittle fuel in it. Its the nature of the beast , you start getting into the 100cc territory your" starting game "has to get better .
Old 6 cube Homelite saws don't even have decomps so you slowly rotate the piston just slightly over tdc and pull it like a winning lottery ticket is gonna come out of the handle!
Just like running most equipment technique plays a huge role in the use of it.
Big saws even without advanced timing will break starter cords and shatter handles .
 
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