ms880 clone

[mirage]

I did the squish test .060 solider 57 at the end of the test

 

[Michpatriot]

So squish ain't the cause..I'd say its most likely too much advance or way too much fuel.

 

[MustangMike]

Could still be a low (numerically high) exhaust. Those big saws don't like that!

 

[mirage]

I got a NEW Stihl decompression valve coming. The hole fore the exhaust of the valve is less than 1/16 of a hole. And there is NO resistant when you push the bottom of the valves piston back in. I have seen people push on the piston of a valve and it creates a indentation on the end of your finger. This one just pops back in.

 

[Michpatriot]

I got a NEW Stihl decompression valve coming. The hole fore the exhaust of the valve is less than 1/16 of a hole. And there is NO resistant when you push the bottom of the valves piston back in. I have seen people on the piston of a valve and it creates a indentation on the end of your finger. This one just pops back in.

Yeah that ain't right, bet you'll be a happy logger with the new Stihl one...

 

[mirage]

Got the Stihl compression valve installed. Now I can pull it. Got 2 questions. What should be the air gap on the coil. I set it with a business card. It will pop but not like it did when I had it set a 2 thousand.Can anyone give me a starting point on the carburetor settings. It was not set at factory. Both screws were a 1/4 turn out. Might be getting this bad MF going.

 

[Michpatriot]

Business card will be fine..little tighter be ok too but .002 your gonna find disaster if the bearing loosens up and it will, when who can say but .002 is too close in my book. The carb ?? 3\4 out From seat on the high Maybe 1 full dono if it'll matter for startup and initial heat cycles.. Low 1\2-3\4 out from seat would be a guess, it'll tell you what it wants once it gets warm. We are gonna need video of the first start..no exceptions.

 

[MustangMike]

I would make the coil gap between .015 and .025.

I don't have a 880, but I would go at least one turn out on each carb screw and then adjust later (start 1.25 turn out each). If they are each only 1/4 turn out, no wonder it won't run! Remember, too rich is not good, but will not burn up your saw. Too lean will! Start too rich.

Most of the old factory carbs were set at about 1 turn out each.

Often with other Asian saws I end up with the low at 3/4 and the hi at 1 1/8.

 

[mirage]

Ok thank you for the info. I will adjust the carb and see what happens. The compression release that came with the saw is 100% defective.

 

[LoneOak]

I would agree with mich and mike, 1 on the low and 1 - 1.25 on the high. Mine started at what ever they were from the factory, but ultimately they had to be adjusted.

 

[mirage]

It's RUNS and RUNS good. Got to adjust the idle up. Going to turn about half a turn and see what happens. Thank you to everyone who has helped me along with this project. If you buy one of these kits get a factory compression release.

 

[Michpatriot]

So COOL!

 

[MustangMike]

Often closing the low a bit will increase your idle speed, but they are all different and I often try to adjust it while it is running (if possible).

Otherwise, I experiment, first one way, then the other.

 

[LoneOak]

Gratz Mirage!

 

[mirage]

Thanks

 

[mirage]

Just want to say thanks too Loneoak for the GREAT video.

 

[LoneOak]

Just want to say thanks too Loneoak for the GREAT video.

Thank you @mirage !

 

[B440]

Finally. It even came with extra pull cord and handles.

 

[LoneOak]

Does the stihl tool pull the crank through the bearing with the seal tool on the shaft? If so ..that seal tool is more nifty than the rest of em out there. But still means there is lateral forces on the bearings during install. I just generally disagree with how the shop tools do things...but thats just me lol.

Answering your question @Mattyo , No the Oil Seal Sleeve does not expose any threads when placed on the crank.
The Arbor for pressing the seal into the bearing does fit over the sleeve, and sets the seal flush with the outer race of the bearing. The Arbor works for both seals.

 

[Mattyo]

Right. So not much different than a 660. Put the bearing in the case...pull the crank through....then install the seal with proper tools. You cannot pull the crank through without risking a pre-installed seal become prolapsed.