ms880 clone

[Mattyo]

Point being order of assembly matters whether using my tools or not. Pulling or pushing a crank through a bearing and seal at the same time is asking for trouble. Worse...if you pop that spring out there's no way to tell until you do a vac test. If you pull the crankcase together...then install seals with that seal installer ...you can be assured to not pop that spring or damage the seals. Seems like nice peace of mind overall ...even if you have to sacrifice a set of pre installed seals.

 

[MustangMike]

Luckily, I was able to see when the seals were not right w/o any test.

I agree with all the rest of your comments.

 

[Mattyo]

Yeah...sometimes its obvious that something went wrong. But if just that spring pops out....you won't know it until a vac test. Supposedly under a pressure test the seals will still hold but that spring helps with vac.

 

[mirage]

anyone know where I can get a copy of the list of bolt sizes and where they go and torque value?

 

[LoneOak]

If using the Stihl tools and sleeve it makes no difference when the seal is installed, I generally have better luck with pulling the crank into the seal, opposed to pushing the seal onto the crank, prior to having the oil seal sleeve. I also do not have access to a shop press, so I have to rely on the Stihl tools to do the job. On the MS 880 the PTO seal will not engage the journal until it's nearly seated. It literally rides the ragged edge of the crank journal.

@mirage you may also want to get the press sleeve Arbor for the MS 880, to install the oil seals after the crank is installed. It works for both seals!

 

[LoneOak]

088 IPL = OLD
MS 880 IPL = NEW Exploded Views and Screw lengths. The crank case screws are 28mm there will be 8 of them.
MS 880 shop manual = Torque Specs. (page 7)

 

[Mattyo]

Does the stihl tool pull the crank through the bearing with the seal tool on the shaft? If so ..that seal tool is more nifty than the rest of em out there. But still means there is lateral forces on the bearings during install. I just generally disagree with how the shop tools do things...but thats just me lol.

 

[LoneOak]

Does the stihl tool pull the crank through the bearing with the seal tool on the shaft? If so ..that seal tool is more nifty than the rest of em out there. But still means there is lateral forces on the bearings during install. I just generally disagree with how the shop tools do things...but thats just me lol.

I do not yet know, I will get back to you on that.

 

[mirage]

If someone were to replace the carb that came in the 880 kit what should be use? I have read the the Farmertec carbs are not that great.

 

[MustangMike]

If someone were to replace the carb that came in the 880 kit what should be use? I have read the the Farmertec carbs are not that great.

Depends on the saw, and I have no experience with the 880 kits.

The 660 carbs seem to work fine, but the ones on the 440 kits are too small and often do not work (they seem like 029 carbs, which fit, but are not right).

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Depends on the saw, and I have no experience with the 880 kits.

The 660 carbs seem to work fine, but the ones on the 440 kits are too small and often do not work (they seem like 029 carbs, which fit, but are not right).

what is the difference between the two. (029 & 440) is it just main jets or other things.
Asking for a friend

 

[MustangMike]

No, the hole is a little smaller on the 029. Other than that, they swap no problem.

 

[LoneOak]

If someone were to replace the carb that came in the 880 kit what should be use? I have read the the Farmertec carbs are not that great.

The carb in the kit is good, and actually appears to be of higher quality than other kit carbs. Fired up with zero adjustments, tuned easily and provides a stable idle. Other than a different "OEM' model of the Walboro HT 12, there isn't any thing to replace the Kit carb that I am aware of.

what is the difference between the two. (029 & 440) is it just main jets or other things.
Asking for a friend

The MS 290/390/341/361/440/460 all use carbs that are externally identical, the choke shaft is timed a lil differently on each. The internals vary greatly though, the venturi diameter is 19mm on the 361/390 and the 440/460 is 22mm. Jetting seems to vary depending on the specific model of carb, some I have are fixed jets some have semi-fixed. Generally though the Kit carbs come with fixed jets, I can't say all do, but the ones I have are fixed. The aftermarket carbs that have the name "ANABA" on them are the better carbs in my experience than the ones marked "HLHIC."






The I modified the ANABA carb's choke shaft to work in the MS361. That is the only mod they get for the 361. Also, I am not a fan of springs on the H and L adjustment screws, the ANABA has a plastic'ish insert to hold the screws tight.

 

[D B Cooper]

what does those carbs look like under the metering diaphram?

 

[LoneOak]

Surprise! Surprise! Semi-fixed in all 3 440/460 carbs. The carb on the left is a 361 carb, fixed.



2 ANABA are on the right, HLHIC - middle, un-branded 361 "Kit" carb - Left.


The "HLHIC" That came with my MS440 Kit looks to have an accel. pump. The "ANABA's" do not.

 

[D B Cooper]

Interesting. Thanks for taking the time to post them pic's. I have one of those HLHIC carbs on a clone 660 runs and tunes pretty darn good.

 

[mirage]

I was installing the seal on the chain side on my 880 and the seal went pass flush with the case. Is this a problem?

 

[LoneOak]

How far past flush?
Can you feel or hear the bearing cage rubbing on it when you rotate the crank?

 

[mirage]

I don't hear anything. Is there not a lip between the bearing and the seal?

 

[Mattyo]

pic?