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Ms362 acting up

66Fleetside

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What are the symptoms of a bad fuel solenoid? Have a version 2 362 that I bought in 2018. It’s never given me a lick of trouble.

After a couple hours of cutting tonight, I started losing power in the cut. At first I thought it was just a grabby chain stalling. But I don’t think so. You could just feel the chain slowing down when you’d normally expect it to just keep pulling.

This has the black solenoid from what I can tell.
 

66Fleetside

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Is that the kind of symptom you get with a bad one?
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Is that the kind of symptom you get with a bad one?

I believe the update kit is around $50. I put one in any mtron that still has the black solenoid. It's cheap insurance. Those earlier solenoid had a range of issues and the black body filters have a rather coarse screen. So it's not worth jacking around with in my opinion. But the ones I have seen go real bad. Usually that have no top end because they are pig rich or super lean, they sometimes start first pull when cold but idle real low and stall from running rich. I'd pull the plug and see what the color is just for grins then I'd pop a new solenoid/filter in and not have to think about it anymore.



Steven
 

66Fleetside

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I believe the update kit is around $50. I put one in any mtron that still has the black solenoid. It's cheap insurance. Those earlier solenoid had a range of issues and the black body filters have a rather coarse screen. So it's not worth jacking around with in my opinion. But the ones I have seen go real bad. Usually that have no top end because they are pig rich or super lean, they sometimes start first pull when cold but idle real low and stall from running rich. I'd pull the plug and see what the color is just for grins then I'd pop a new solenoid/filter in and not have to think about it anymore.



Steven

Thanks. I’ve seen RedBull661’s video where he does it on the 661. Looks to me like the job might be simpler on a 362? It appears pretty accessible.
 

66Fleetside

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I believe the update kit is around $50. I put one in any mtron that still has the black solenoid. It's cheap insurance. Those earlier solenoid had a range of issues and the black body filters have a rather coarse screen. So it's not worth jacking around with in my opinion. But the ones I have seen go real bad. Usually that have no top end because they are pig rich or super lean, they sometimes start first pull when cold but idle real low and stall from running rich. I'd pull the plug and see what the color is just for grins then I'd pop a new solenoid/filter in and not have to think about it anymore.



Steven

Pulled the plug tonight. It’s tan.
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Pulled the plug tonight. It’s tan.

Tan is far better than gray!

I know you probably don't think it's the solenoid and it might not be. It's hard to diagnose without running it first hand. But another thing you can check is the coil gap. They are sensitive to having too large a gap or being packed with gunk. Yours is probably fine but hey it's easy to check and if it saves you $50......


Steven
 

66Fleetside

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Tan is far better than gray!

I know you probably don't think it's the solenoid and it might not be. It's hard to diagnose without running it first hand. But another thing you can check is the coil gap. They are sensitive to having too large a gap or being packed with gunk. Yours is probably fine but hey it's easy to check and if it saves you $50......


Steven

I actually assumed it WAS the solenoid, but was just looking for some confirmation from folks who’ve seen the symptoms. Got one ordered but can’t get it until Monday. Only $44??!!! Not too bad.

It looks to me like I can get to it without pulling the carb. Curious if anyone has done it that way or if I’m totally mistaken.
 
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huskihl

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I actually assumed it WAS the solenoid, but was just looking for some confirmation from folks who’ve seen the symptoms. Got one ordered but can’t get it until Monday. Only $44??!!! Not too bad.

It looks to me like I can get to it without pulling the carb. Curious if anyone has done it that way or if I’m totally mistaken.
There’s a little tiny T5 or 10 screw that may be difficult to access without pulling the carburetor. By the time you get that far, it’s only another minute or two to have the carburetor out
 

5000+

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How about the basics before jumping to the moon. Air and fuel filters clean? Spark screen? Screen in carb? Don't know how much use it has on it and if it sat long with fuel in it.
 

66Fleetside

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All the basic stuff is good. Saw gets used regularly. Non ethanol fuel. If it sits for even a few weeks I dump the tank.
 

67L36Driver

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I overhauled a two year old 362 for a client. New top end. Compression had gotten weak.

It would start and run and cut fine but not idle.

$39 solenoid and it idled perfect. [emoji1696]
 

66Fleetside

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Ok, got my part and a free evening to replace the solenoid. How does a guy get the black air filter assembly to separate from the rubber mounts on the side? I’ve removed the two nuts that hold it to the carb studs
 
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huskihl

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Just use a pick or screwdriver. Undo the right side rubber retainer, and roll it out toward you and to the left
 

66Fleetside

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Got it! Thanks!

Never been this deep into a ‘puter saw. Kinda cool how the carb just floats in the middle of that apparatus.
 

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There’s a little tiny T5 or 10 screw that may be difficult to access without pulling the carburetor. By the time you get that far, it’s only another minute or two to have the carburetor out
The ones I've done were T10 if I remember right.

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huskihl

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Just use a pick or screwdriver. Undo the right side rubber retainer, and roll it out toward you and to the left
My bad. This is for a 261. 362 I’m sure is similar
 
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