MS200T rebuild. Paint, Squish and value

[Lightning Performance]

The heat/wear factor is my concern... Doing in-tree work is few and far between for me and this saw is more of a toy for me than anything else. I usually do dead wooding and pruning with a silky sugoi but I fancy being lazy for a bit. I don't do big work. Buying this saw was more of a lockdown project for me whilst I haven't got much on!

Leave it alone is your best bet.
Check the piston clearance for 0.014 or more. The rest was covered. Don't mess with the upper transfers.

 

[Patric Mudge]

When you say piston clearance I take it you mean squish, I'll use a new OEM base gasket and the original piston and crank so ill probably be more than double the 0.014.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

It’s very simple to do the squish, and the closer it is to what Jennings & or Blare state it should be, the more bang you get & less waste of fuel. Fuel in the squish does not burn properly

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I will find the link to this pic,, book have a read..


http://www.amrca.com/tech/tuners.pdf

 

[Patric Mudge]

Thanks, I'm happy to do the squish etc, I've done it a couple of times before. My only question is how to adjust it? Surely the only options are:

OEM gasket
BGD
machine the head/crankcase

In that order to adjust?

 

[Patric Mudge]

Also another maybe odd quesion but why doesnt the MS200t have a inner side plate to protect the casting if the chain comes off etc?

This part:

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Your asking questions, I don’t really have an answer for. But I will have a go.. stihl make things to reasonably good spec and consistent, some saws you can get different thickness base gaskets, somthing to do with fuel used in some places and less compression. Why ?

why do you only get one thickness gaskets for some saws ? Idk
I guess there’s a spec for exceptable squish. But we want the better side of exceptable.

Normally squish is measured with or with out base gasket. And depending on its size for the size of the saw, most go for 20thou some a bit less or more. depending on a few things some may use card or a beer can or coke can and make there own gasket.

it gets far to clever for my small brain after this..

But for the most part bgd is all us guys do unless you got a lathe, and want to increase the compression a bit.

but as I said it gets to clever for me,, changing timings, durations Etc..

 

[Lightning Performance]

Everyone likes something different and spends money on different modifications, port work, machine work and more. You can do a lot with an old piston, a hack saw blade, a bit of JB Weld and time. Paper gaskets made from gasket paper are easy to get where you like things. You can even do some sanding and toss the gasket, many do. Lots of threads to read.

 

[Patric Mudge]

Well, I finished cleaning the crankcase today. That's now at the powdercoaters and I should have that back tomorrow. I've also finished the exhaust, cleaned out the carbon and then lowered the inner baffle by around 1/8" to open it up a little as opposed to drilling a hole. It's now sat with the heat gun blowing through it getting nice and toasty to dry the sealing paste. I'll probably go a bit extra and pressure test it before I use it in case there's a gap in the seal. I've spent too much money on new plastics to watch them melt!

 

[Patric Mudge]

In reply to the messages, I think the lower compression fuel issue is countries that don't have the higher octane fuel? Low octane, high compression causes plinking/pre-det right? For the amount I will be using this saw I will probably running on aspen mixed with stihl hp-ultra. I run high regular fuel in the rest of the tools but they run like hell on aspen. I'll slave it together with the seal and then see where it is on squish. I am awaiting a oem base gasket seal as I have used aftermarket crank seals because the general consensus is they are better than the stock ones so I didn't purchase the kit. It looks like a week waiting for parts though. My fuel tank arrived and turned out to be an aftermarket one (Me being an idiot) so that's going back and I have found an oem for cheap. I'll start posting up some pictures when I have everything together for anyone who's interested now/in the future!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I vid will be good when it’s done,


Did you have a read of the Jennings pdf link ?

the Blair's book/pdf (not that I posted a link) is a lot of maths,, as well was some good explaining

 

[Patric Mudge]

So I've had the crankcase back from powdercoat and I've installed new bearings and seals...

I've been looking at this little plastic filler that I removed before powdercoat (You can see it installed in the photos) Can you get hold of these anywhere as mine has the consistency of stale cake and seems to break apart very easily. I'm actually thinking of making one out of HDPE if I can't get hold of one anywhere?

 

[Patric Mudge]

So I've been fettling today with the exhaust. These 200's have a good reputation for leaking and judging by the burnt oil stains, mine was leaking too. I was looking at it and the exhaust face wasn't flat at all, the seal had dug in and the little knob (circled in red) was up against the cylinder and meaning that the faces weren't aligned.
I've machined about 0.015 off the face to level it out as there was around a 0.013" dip around the seal area between the bolt holes. I then measured the gasket to be 0.0175" in the flat area so I used a 0.017 feeler and bolted the cylinder to the exhaust with the feeler gauge in between and slowly removed metal from the little knob until the cylinder port lined up and was level with the face on the exhaust. Fingers crossed it will seal now!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

That part that is in the oil tank, it’s not in the ipl, would need a part no to really be sure, but doubt you will find it with out it.
I looked on farmatec and L & S supplies. Maybe someone could chime in who's done a 200t kit saw, if it’s in the kit.
when I took mine apart, I saw it and left it inplace. yes I know you had to take it out for the pwd coat.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Edit changed link to link pic In thread

https://opeforum.com/threads/has-anyone-done-a-200t-kit.19811/#post-1037359

maybe @wiersy111 can say if it was in his kit, and I’m wondering if it’s a just a spacer to reduce the size of the oil tank ?

 

[Patric Mudge]

It is a spacer to reduce the oil capacity in a way. From what I can see it stops oil sitting in the forward part of the saw away from the oil pickup when the saw is running on its side. Otherwise the oil would all run back into that cavity and the pickup would run dry!

 

[Patric Mudge]

Well, it's finally all back together! I'll post up some pics and a video in a bit. Just a quick tuning question. I've had to remove the high side screw limiting cap to ritchen it up after porting. Do you still aim for the factory 14,000 rpm when tuning the high side?

Thanks!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I’ve been told if it’s 4 stroking then it’s fine but muh ears is bad at hearing it.
So i have to compare it to lean and then rich, and have it in the middle.

I,m sure someone will say it’s a bit rich or lean in the vid,,, better a bit rich thou.

 

[Patric Mudge]

Thanks! I'll have a fiddle later and then get some pics and a vid up. I have a morning of stump grinding on a mini digger this morning though!

I also have a 7t sprocket. The standard oem 14" chain is 50 links and doesn't fit. Would I need a 51 or 52 link chain for a 7t sprocket? I've had to put the 6t on there for now but my whole goal was to run a 7t sprocket to up the chain speed and use the porting to account for the lost torque!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I thought a 6 tooth was fast enough, while in 14” bar Territory, you could try a 16 bar and see how your porting helps it handle it.... that’s if you have one to try...

Its killing me waiting for the vid