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MS200T rebuild. Paint, Squish and value

Discussion in 'The Repair Shop' started by Patric Mudge, May 28, 2020.

  1. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    Hi Everyone,

    I'm rebuilding an MS200T that I picked up from ebay. On strip down I couldn't be happier. She's an old girl and beaten up on the outside but the piston/cylinder looks like it's just been installed. Not a single scratch/score (outside the normal surface marring that accurs) and you can still see the factory "crosshatch". I've spent 2 days cleaning because it was VERY, VERY dirty outside but so far so good.

    Down to my question... When I took the crankcase apart I've realised that the paint in the crankcase area has started to peel very slightly on the edges. I'm going to strip all the paint off inside the crankcase as having a piece of paint score my piston would make me cry. Does the crankcase need the paint (powdercoat) inside at all? Seems a bit pointless to me?

    I have the factory repair guide to hand but there's nothing in there about squish values or checking them? Is there an "ideal" squish range for these?

    Final question. I am doing this saw as a keeper so the value isn't massively important but assuming I use nothing but genuine parts what would a saw like this in pristine (rebuilt) condition be worth? This isn't my first rodeo and it's being rebuilt in a proper machine shop with everything ultrasonically cleaned, measured, inspected tested and assembled (Probably better) than the factory.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Wonkydonkey

    Wonkydonkey Pinnacle OPE Member

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    20thou squish.
     
  3. Wonkydonkey

    Wonkydonkey Pinnacle OPE Member

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    One would think as long as the loose paint stuff is off then all would be good.
    If you Look at this vid in the link below, where doc, shows a 044 12mm crank in a 10mm case. You can see that the coating has been taken off /flaked off where the crank is . But you can see it still on side by the bearings

    I guess someone will be along to confirm sooner or later
    https://opeforum.com/threads/044-project.7951/page-29#post-768642
     
  4. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    Thanks for that! I assumed it was in there as it's probably easier during manufacture. Paint the whole casting, final machine, wack it together... I'll just leave it bare then by the looks of it
     
  5. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    Next question... The carb I have is a c1q-s61a and it doesn't have an accelerator pump. This saw seems very genuine and everything seems very untouched but is this a carb that was fitted to the MS200t? Thanks
     
  6. angelo c

    angelo c Coal Member

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    Common replacement for the acc pump carb. I believe the s61a is the 020t carby. The acc pump carb is supposed to be quicker spooling up but the pump is problematic thus the 020t swap
     
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  7. angelo c

    angelo c Coal Member

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    I've gone BGD on a few 200ts and not been happy as the saws became slightly tougher to start in a harness . Bucket work was ok. I did not like the idea of a climber having ANY harder time doing anything in a tree. My own personal 200t is BGD. Too fat and too old for climbing also a bit of a skirdy cat too.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2020
  8. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    Hm, Interesting. I would have preferred the genuine carb but it is what it is I suppose. It must have been swapped out very early in the saws life as the carb looks the same age as the chainsaw!
     
  9. Wonkydonkey

    Wonkydonkey Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I had one with the Accelerator pumps, they are nice carbs and give the roar factor as you pull the trigger. But when they give you hassle, and the alternative OEM is about £60, you will be happy just having got what you got..:)...
    Your lucky to have an oem cylinder. Mine don’t, :(

    ive done the bgd on both, squish came in at 20 thou... I found it’s a bit hard to tune and have it set slightly rich on the low, which means I have to blip the throttle as I start it, otherwise it won’t start when warm. That’s my saws but yours will be different ;)
     
  10. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    I was 50/50 about the BGD but starting issues don't sound like fun to me! Have you ported yours? I was wondering if a slight porting job would make up for the fact that the acc pump is gone. Open up the muffler and port it from inside on the mill so I can keep the stock look as I have the muffler apart at the moment soaking in ATF fluid to strip the coke off. I was also going to remove the lump at the bottom of the intake side so it's a smooth transition into the intake? Seeing as this is a rebuild I am between two minds of what to do, keep it stock and have an as new or do some very minor mods to make it run nicer too as the carb isn't "origional" although its a genuine stihl part
     
  11. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Here are a few pics as well of the piston/cylinder post ultrasonic cleaning (Mostly because I want to show off how lucky I was because it never usually happens) Everything was very very coked up (I had to scrape the coke off the piston with a plastic scraper so it was obviously running very oil heavy although that has played to my advantage wear wise!
     
  12. Wonkydonkey

    Wonkydonkey Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I haven’t really done much to mine, apart from drilling the exhaust a bit. The exhaust that have the spark screen fitted do well by just removing it. But as we don’t have those it was hard to think of away to open it up without turning to many heads. When one of mine was a part I opened the exhaust and drilling it from the inside. I will take a pic tonight or tomorrow.

    the numbers are good from what I’ve read,, so apart from machine work it’s a little hard to find those easy improvements.
    Yes you could inlarge the exhaust and match the muff, some say gut the muff channels.

    I’ve heard of guys rounding & lowering the fin between the transfers and someone spoke about using epoxy to fill in the sharp 90* angle in the top of the trans. I,m no expert but it would mean getting in there and making sure it’s got a good rough surface to adhere to.. so as I’ve only heard it and not seen it being done, I was less than keen to attempt this..

    and one other obvious thing is the exhaust is not easy to get to it you have to take the darn thing apart every time unlike other saws..
    I still need to put an oem wrist pin bearing in one of mine, so while it’s apart it will get some more attention in other places
     
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  13. DND 9000

    DND 9000 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Yes this carburetor was fitted originally on the MS 200T. This carb had some revision stages and from the C1Q-S61B on it had the accelerator pump.

    The C1Q-S61 was not used on the 020T.
     
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  14. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    Interesting! Maybe I will just stick to opening the exhaust up a little whilst I have it off and split in half. Good to know that the carb is an original one though. I did read of people having the 020 carb from factory at the dealership so maybe that's where the confusion comes in. This one is old as it has the origional white plastic fuel tank breather before they revised it etc. It looks like I have a long day of paint stripping before respraying the crankcase today though. I want to start making progress on the re-assembly!
     
  15. angelo c

    angelo c Coal Member

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    we usually just remove the screen on 200t muffs( if possible-some jobs require for fire hazard)
     
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  16. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    I don't seem to have one in mine. I don't think they put them in the ones for the European markets?
     
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  17. Wonkydonkey

    Wonkydonkey Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Ahh, in my last post, I forgot the timing add 5* or 20thou.. And slightly widening the intake and exhaust just a little bit....
    Anyhow here’s the not so good pics of exhaust,,, it’s only a small mod, hole, it’s easy to enlarge but if it’s to big and noisy, it’s a bit harder to make it smaller :rolleyes: only one of mine has the extra hole..so depending on which saw has it when I pullit apart it will be bigger than the last. Yes I noticed the sound difference but I think I could go twice the hole area.
    And as you can see I tried to keep it normal looking. you can only do it from the inside -> out
    Pic's 1st two no mod last two extra hole..
    39B3D4F8-8FA6-4512-AEC7-20979E1FB5C1.jpeg 3C125561-1847-4457-87DB-A8C90B035EE3.jpeg 51271968-CF18-4AAF-98C4-D6140609B165.jpeg B8C78847-F6B8-42DD-BDC3-40000B182027.jpeg
     
  18. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Here For The Long Haul!

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    Our mufflers here are different.
     
  19. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Here For The Long Haul!

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    You can mod it but just remember this, it will run hotter, use more fuel, be much louder and harder to start. It's really easy to ruin one if your not absolutely sure of what your going to do and how your going to do it. The bigger question is why.
    Do you plan on running a sixteen inch bar doing large hardwood removals like white oak? If not...
     
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  20. Patric Mudge

    Patric Mudge Well-Known OPE Member

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    The heat/wear factor is my concern... Doing in-tree work is few and far between for me and this saw is more of a toy for me than anything else. I usually do dead wooding and pruning with a silky sugoi but I fancy being lazy for a bit. I don't do big work. Buying this saw was more of a lockdown project for me whilst I haven't got much on!
     
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