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MS 460 kits ... Finally!

MG porting

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How about HL supply, Wolfcreek Saw Shop, or Little Red Barn?

One of them have a trustworthy carb?
Get one from Costume chainsaw parts it will be a combo it will have carb. coil. Fuel line and oil pick up line and filters the good carb comes in that combo and that way you'll have a spare coil to. HL supply might have the good carb as well but I've never ordered a carb from them.
 

MustangMike

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I always install the bar studs backwards, gives you more threaded area to start your nut on and they seem to work much better that way.

The only 440 brake problems I had were two kits came with the wrong flag, and you only realized it when they did not work!
 

67L36Driver

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The 460 kit problem I’ve had:

Yup, the brake band drags on the clutch drum.

Choke blade sticks shut.

Boot clamp woefully under size (like 4mm worth at least).

Still no good decomp valve from Farmertec. [emoji57] Down to one bleed hole from two but still too large.

Pilot holes in the plastic too small for the 6mm AV buffer screws. I used 5mm salvaged from FarmBoss hulks.
 

thesawincanada

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My last farmertec ms200t kit that I built the throttle was sticking open. I unscrewed the little screw on the throttle blade to shift and re centered the blade. It seemed to fix the problem. You may have a similar problem with the choke sticking
 

67L36Driver

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My last farmertec ms200t kit that I built the throttle was sticking open. I unscrewed the little screw on the throttle blade to shift and re centered the blade. It seemed to fix the problem. You may have a similar problem with the choke sticking

Did that first thing. Had to use a vice grip.

It’s the burrs around the edge of the choke blade that jam it.

But can’t get the screw (Phillips head [emoji2959]) out.
 

67L36Driver

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On the decomps, I glue the plastic cap on with PL Premium, and have not had any other problems with them.

I absolutely will not use a Farmertec decomp. I had two swallow the stem. One while at an idle. Close call for sure.
 

MustangMike

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My last farmertec ms200t kit that I built the throttle was sticking open. I unscrewed the little screw on the throttle blade to shift and re centered the blade. It seemed to fix the problem. You may have a similar problem with the choke sticking

The problem was not that simple, I did that, and filed the plates, but they still stuck. And if you did get some of them to work, other parts of the carb screwed up, they just were not worth playing with.
 

StihlThe1

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Dug into my kit tonight as I had a little bit of time to inspect things a little more, checked the intake clamp as it was reported to be wrong in another kit, this one fits correct. Checked the multi position switch and it functions & looks ok. The brake band appears correct size for the clutch drum, maybe it will fit up ok when put together. Had previously ordered OEM wrist pin, bearing and clips...

Farmertec wrist pin weight: 16 grams
OEM Stihl wrist pin weight: 13.5 grams

Not sure yet if I’ll use the supplied cylinder & piston, very rough casting in the squish area, and not much options for altering porting. Going to look into other Cylinder options.
Hyway, Meteor, or some other Chinese crap shoot? Suggestions?

5B24CAFE-2BCA-4030-B800-92F5E78DED0A.jpeg

OEM Stihl wrist pin on the right.

7034A1DA-7F58-4E5D-8D52-AC61DD6BA1A3.jpeg
 

MG porting

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Dug into my kit tonight as I had a little bit of time to inspect things a little more, checked the intake clamp as it was reported to be wrong in another kit, this one fits correct. Checked the multi position switch and it functions & looks ok. The brake band appears correct size for the clutch drum, maybe it will fit up ok when put together. Had previously ordered OEM wrist pin, bearing and clips...

Farmertec wrist pin weight: 16 grams
OEM Stihl wrist pin weight: 13.5 grams

Not sure yet if I’ll use the supplied cylinder & piston, very rough casting in the squish area, and not much options for altering porting. Going to look into other Cylinder options.
Hyway, Meteor, or some other Chinese crap shoot? Suggestions?

View attachment 210287

OEM Stihl wrist pin on the right.

View attachment 210288
Make sure that the OEM wrist pin is the same laneth as the farmertec wrist pin if you do plan on using the farmertec piston. And I would go with a Hyway cylinder although I've never used a Hyway cylinder but I have used Meteor cylinders there plating is really good but there port timing really sucks.
 

MustangMike

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I would use either the supplied cylinder, or get a Hyway (Meteor is better quality, but you can't work with them and their ports are often not good), and get a Meteor piston (which comes with Caber rings). (or one from HL Supply, see below)

Always check all the bevel work on AM cylinders. HL Supply sells a cylinder (I believe it is the same one currently on sale with a piston for $23.33) and they have the Meteor piston on sale for < $32. I have used two of these cylinders (they come with pretty good port work) with OEM pistons and they are both still running (and they run well).
 

MustangMike

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I will be interested in hearing how the carb works (or not) and how the chain adjuster works (or not). These were problematic with the 440 kits.
 

67L36Driver

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Chain adjuster was good from the get go. Just grease the gear teeth and assemble. [emoji106]

USPS is holding the carb from HL hostage until tomorrow. [emoji1696]

They had all day today to deliver it but didn’t. Clowns!
 

StihlThe1

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Make sure that the OEM wrist pin is the same laneth as the farmertec wrist pin if you do plan on using the farmertec piston. And I would go with a Hyway cylinder although I've never used a Hyway cylinder but I have used Meteor cylinders there plating is really good but there port timing really sucks.

Thanks (and MustangMike too). The wrist pin lengths are the same.

Think I will order a Hyway cylinder.

What are your thoughts on the “big bore 54mm” for the 046/ms460 saw?
 

StihlThe1

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I will be interested in hearing how the carb works (or not) and how the chain adjuster works (or not). These were problematic with the 440 kits.

I hear you on the carb problems...thing is I guess I got lucky with my G660 because it’s carb has been stellar. I ran 6-8 tanks through the saw for break in...I never touched the jets during that period and it was spot on with my 32:1 ratio with *blue oil.
Leaned it out about 3 times over the next tank full and it just seems to be the most consistent tuning of any saw I’ve owned. I worked as a tech for Stihl in Montana in the 80’s and bought my 034 when they first came out, & I was a go kart racer (nationally) in my youth with a machine shop in my basement and a dyno in the garage, so I’m very familiar with carb tuning. Hope this 460 carb turns out the same as the 660 has for me...if not I’ll replace it.
 

Wonkydonkey

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I Hope this 460 carb turns out the same as the 660 has for me...if not I’ll replace it.

I'd be interested to know if the 460 carb is the same as the 440, farmatec seem to list them the same.

I’ve brought one for my 044 rebuild, just to test and play with if need be....
 

67L36Driver

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Mixing wrist pins, retainers and pistons gives me the hebbie jebbies.

Wire diameter is not always the same so the groove is not cut to the same radius.

Pins can be chamfered or not.
 
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