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Milling power head?

srcarr52

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I use a ported 395 and I've never had a problem running a 36" bar with an 8 pin. I did rig up an aux oiler for milling hard oak mostly to keep the chain cooler.

There is a used 395 in the classifieds on this forum for $450, best deal you're going to find.
 

kpkustoms

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Pine and poplar cut about twice the speed of oak. Oak I don't like to go over 24" of wood for a 046 or 7900. I wouldn't ask a 372 to do anything over 16" with the smaller bearings in the case.

Well that's good to know that it's hard on the crank bearings I just replaced the seals bearings and crank in my 372
 

mdavlee

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Well that's good to know that it's hard on the crank bearings I just replaced the seals bearings and crank in my 372

Small bearings for a 70cc saw. I wish they could fit 6203 in there instead of 6202.
 

CR888

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Double ended Cannon/Woodland Pro bar with a 7900 hanging off each end, throttle cables on each leading to a single trigger. Watch the dust fly!
 

ajschainsaws

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I got a customer who wants a stihl powerhead for his logosol timber jig chainsaw mill now I wanted to sell him the right powerhead ive got the following here all in GWO

1 x 051 AV
1 x 076 AV
1 x ms 660
2 x 090 AV

I was thinking the 076 would suit him , but what's the 051 like for milling will it oil strong enough
He only has $600 too spend
 
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Iron.and.bark

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I got a customer who wants a stihl powerhead for his logos of timber jig chainsaw mill now I wanted to sell him the right powerhead ive got the following here all in GWO

1 x 051 AV
1 x 076 AV
1 x ms 660
2 x 090 AV

I was thinking the 076 would suit him , but what's the 051 like for milling will it oil strong enough
He only has $600 too spend

When you mill with the logosol system you use a shorter bar than an Alaskan, so a large oiling capacity while important is not as critial.

If they fit his budget. Ms 660, 076 and 090. An 051 would be adequate, but probably not satisfactory.

Run either low pro 3/8 or my favorite .325 with the logosol system.

Personally would use a GB bar max 24" (or similar with removable tip), switch tip over to .325 and run a 9 tooth sprocket. Get a really nice finish from chisel full tooth ground to a 10° angle.
 
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ajschainsaws

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When you mill with the logosol system you use a shorter bar than an Alaskan, so a large oiling capacity while important is not as critial.

If they fit his budget. Ms 660, 076 and 090. An 051 would be adequate, but probably not satisfactory.

Run either low pro 3/8 or my favorite .325 with the logosol system.

Personally would use a GB bar max 24" (or similar with removable tip), switch tip over to .325 and run a 9 tooth sprocket. Get a really nice finish from chisel full tooth ground to a 10° angle.


Thanks for that I might let him have a look at the 660 or the 076
 

TimRD

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I run a 660 with a 36" bar on an Alaskan and it has done well so far. I have been milling mostly cherry so far, no really hard oak. Upgrading to an 090 soon.

Sent from my VS876 using Tapatalk
 

huskytime

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This is a good thread here, can I toss a couple questions in?

I've got the itch and would love to try an Alaskan mill. There's a Timber Tough 36" on northerntool.com for $200+ shipping. Anyone had any experience with this brand? Should I give it a try?

As for a power head, I know my 60cc isn't going to pull more than a 20-24" bar... So I'm getting the gears turning on picking up a dedicated milling saw. I'm thinking I want something in the 70-90cc range. I've never had a stihl but i know it's kind of a Ford vs Chevy thing. I'm not opposed, I'll go stihl or husqvarna.

I'm thinking a 440/372xp might get me going but leave me wanting more later. On the other hand, a 660/395xp for me is a lot of saw. I'd love suggestions and opinions. I'm thinking I'll go 32"-36" on the bar. I don't run into a lot of hardwoods besides maple but who knows in the future.

I think I'd run a ripping chain, zero degrees on the cutting head with every other pair of teeth shaved down half width like scrapers. How about 3/8" vs .404? I'll probably want to go .063 gauge.
 

TimRD

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I haven't used a timber tough but based on the pictures online it looks about the same as the Granberg. I have both a 460 and a 660, and I would imagine the 460 with a 32" bar making a full width cut would be pretty bogged down. If you're using a roller nose bar you won't be able to get a full width cut due to the pinching the sprocket. Also, if you don't remove the felling dogs you will lose another couple inches. My 36" bar cuts around 31" if I leave the dogs on. I mill a lot of cherry and ash.

Milling is pretty hard on a saw, so in my opinion, you can't go too big. I run 3/8 .063 Carlton milling chain on my 660. It works really well, and it's pretty easy to file too. I have an 090 that I run .404 on and I will say the .404 does stay sharp a lot longer.

Be sure to crank up the oiler on a Stihl if you end up getting one. @Mastermind just did a thread on modifying a 460 oiler to put way more oil out.

Good luck, and let us know what you end up choosing!

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huskytime

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Thanks for the tip, I think I'll order the mill. And I think you are right about leaning towards a bigger displacement. I could go with a 660. What do you think about a 394xp? There's one for sale here locally for $500.

Which ever saw I end up with in the 90cc range, would you suggest running the .404?
 

mdavlee

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394/5 is better for the outboard clutch and better oilers. I prefer 3/8" for a narrower kerf. If you don't care about losing more wood 404 is tougher and lasts longer between filings. I use chisel chain square filed for faster cutting and it leaves a good finish still.
 

TimRD

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Mike has some really good insight here. The outboard clutch will stay cooler when milling, and he definitely knows how to square file a chain. Kerf is definitely something to consider too. If you're stabbing a big tree out, you probably won't notice or you won't be too worried about your loss there. If you're milling 5/4 or 6/4 lumber you will have a lot more loss in the log. I haven't run a 394xp, but I just picked one up do we'll see how it goes!

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mdavlee

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30" mill has 27" of cut available clamped on the bar. A 32" with no spikes will max it out. Jumping up to a 36" gets you around 33" of cut and you need a 42" really.
 

Stump Shot

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Just a thought for people that are thinking of upgrading to a larger power head or already have a smaller one around. I was milling planks and boards with my Alaskan and added a smaller power head and put it on the Granberg mini-mill. This allowed me to "edge" the log after the first cut with the Alaskan and have a cant much sooner and with less effort(no log rolling). It upped output to about twice as much as without it. You can also buy extra rail to make a two sided track if you are making a lot of the same size board/plank(go up and down without moving rail). I also figured out I could run it through say a 12" cant two more times part way through so the log stayed together and then could take three 4" boards off with one pass of the Alaskan. As far as power heads go there never big enough, I mill with a 20 HP V-Twin now and wish it were 30 HP. Sometimes unless things are really not working out, ya just have to go with what ya got and get 'er done.
 

huskytime

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I tried ordering the timber tough 36" from northern tool. They strung me along for 2 months on back order before they finally canceled my order. Then a week later it goes on sale. Well I found a neat home made mill here locally that will take up to a 42".

I have a ported 066 and was wondering what you guys think? Should I go 36" or 42"? I can get the 36 stihl, the 42 Oregon. I'm thinking 3/8 @ 7 or 8 pin.
 

TimRD

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I tried ordering the timber tough 36" from northern tool. They strung me along for 2 months on back order before they finally canceled my order. Then a week later it goes on sale. Well I found a neat home made mill here locally that will take up to a 42".

I have a ported 066 and was wondering what you guys think? Should I go 36" or 42"? I can get the 36 stihl, the 42 Oregon. I'm thinking 3/8 @ 7 or 8 pin.
That sucks they strung you along. I ordered a set of rails for a granberg from them and it took a couple months to get them too.

I would definitely watch your oiler while you're milling with a bar that long. My 660 isn't the best at oiling even with it turned the whole way up. I run a 36" and it does pretty well. Be sure to turn your oiler up at a minimum.
 

mdavlee

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I tried ordering the timber tough 36" from northern tool. They strung me along for 2 months on back order before they finally canceled my order. Then a week later it goes on sale. Well I found a neat home made mill here locally that will take up to a 42".

I have a ported 066 and was wondering what you guys think? Should I go 36" or 42"? I can get the 36 stihl, the 42 Oregon. I'm thinking 3/8 @ 7 or 8 pin.
7 pin and aux oiler for either length.
 

huskytime

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Oh yes, it has a high output oiler.
 
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