Miller Mod Saws and the CS-500P Echo!

[Miller Mod Saws]

Ok boys let's hear your thoughts. You now where I'm headed on saw 1. I have to of these to battle out. Like I said. It'll take me some time to do this thread but thought with that intake and those numbers there would be some good mind bashing going on. Lol.

 

[drf256]

On the 7910 I've noticed the higher you take the exhaust height the more blowdown the saw seems to like. Running on that theroy is why I've lengthened out the blowdown time as I raise the exhaust.

Makes sense. Less exhaust pressure to overcome.

 

[jake wells]

echo sure did leave a lot on the table here.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

echo sure did leave a lot on the table here.

They did. And at 10.? Some pounds it's mong the lightest in the class. However running wise. Blahhhh. But if it can be woke up to run good. I think it would be an awesome saw.

 

[jake wells]

They did. And at 10.? Some pounds it's mong the lightest in the class. However running wise. Blahhhh. But if it can be woke up to run good. I think it would be an awesome saw.

a muffler mod really helps these saws mweba said that.

 

[Mastermind]

You haven't mentioned the crowned piston and odd shaped squish area yet.......

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

You haven't mentioned the crowned piston and odd shaped squish area yet.......

Ok. Ok. It has a dome pistion In it and the jug is pretty carboned up. I didn't notice an odd squish band. It does have a D style combustion chamber in it.

 

[spencerpaving]

If I remember correctly that intake port design was to help cut intake noise down...my thoughts is don't touch the very bottom but taper up the sides so they open around 78ish...just my thoughts or epoxy it

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

If I remember correctly that intake port design was to help cut intake noise down...my thoughts is don't touch the very bottom but taper up the sides so they open around 78ish...just my thoughts or epoxy it

Thats what my thought was. The main square opens at roughly 70 degrees now.

 

[Mastermind]

When you start cutting on it you'll see that the dome on the piston, and the angle of the squish are way different. Are you planning to change the squish angle to match the dome, or??????

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

When you start cutting on it you'll see that the dome on the piston, and the angle of the squish are way different. Are you planning to change the squish angle to match the dome, or??????

Idk. I havnt thought that far ahead I may just cut the squish flat in the first try.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

When you start cutting on it you'll see that the dome on the piston, and the angle of the squish are way different. Are you planning to change the squish angle to match the dome, or??????

Or I could take the slight dome off the piston. Lol.

 

[Mastermind]

Will the piston crown be thick enough to cut it flat?

 

[Mastermind]

That's where it got interesting for me.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

I havnt measured anything yet. I took it apart and took some pics. I'll clean her up tomorrow and see what I got. A mess most likely. Lmao

 

[Four Paws]

What's the bore, Carl? 43mm or 44mm?

The intake is unconventional - I would say that there had to be some theory behind the shape the engineers started with. The point at the bottom would make for very high velocity when the port cracks open, and the triangular shape will reduce the overall time area, even though the duration is 'long' compared to what we are familiar with.

I would personally not cut squish at first.
Drop the jug .024" to end up at .018" squish.
Ditch the bottom ring.
Maintain the shape of the intake - raise the top of the intake to the bottom of the skirt at TDC (if you can) and only widen the square portion of the intake, blending it back into the triangular portion.
Take the exhaust up - raise the center of the port .050" and the edges .025" and widen it out as much as you can.

My 2 cents.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

What's the bore, Carl? 43mm or 44mm?

The intake is unconventional - I would say that there had to be some theory behind the shape the engineers started with. The point at the bottom would make for very high velocity when the port cracks open, and the triangular shape will reduce the overall time area, even though the duration is 'long' compared to what we are familiar with.

I would personally not cut squish at first.
Drop the jug .024" to end up at .018" squish.
Ditch the bottom ring.
Maintain the shape of the intake - raise the top of the intake to the bottom of the skirt at TDC (if you can) and only widen the square portion of the intake, blending it back into the triangular portion.
Take the exhaust up - raise the center of the port .050" and the edges .025" and widen it out as much as you can.

My 2 cents.

44 mm

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

I'll post this pic then expain.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

You guys seen randys hint earlier on in the thread. I pulled the piston and the dome thickness is roughly 2.5mm. So if I cut it flat it would be to thin. Which for a work saw IMO isn't the best as I prefer to be able just to replace the piston if need be. Now how I did this one came from what I've tried on the 026.

 

[Miller Mod Saws]

I cut .030" from the base just like I said I would but I measured up the piston and ended up cutting my squish band at a 3° angle. Trial and error. But thats what I did on this one.