['new' CS-590] Tips on what to look-for, and breaking-in, a "floor-model" new chainsaw?

[Cerberus]

tl;dr -- bought a floor-model echo 590 from Home Depot, it looks/sounds great but before I put it to wood I want to both ask if there's *anything* I should be looking at/for on a 'floor model' and, since it's my first no-primer / with-compression-valve saw, am wondering if "break-in" procedure is any different? Really wanna see this get better with time like my 355t

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I wouldn't normally get a floor model but saws seemed scarcer & scarcer and then I was told to expect it to get even worse (not by a salesmen ), and had been wanting a 590 for the better part of a year (only had a 42cc), so when I realized their availability was really plummeting I kept an eye out and this week my area sold-out, today I was able to score a floor-model and I took it to the parking-lot, added some echo-brand fuel I'd bought with it, pressed its decompresesion valve & smirked at no primer bulb, and it started well.... I killed the fast-idle real quickly because I'd forgotten to put the chain brake on, so it didn't warm-up well enough and did die-while-idling about 15sec later. I re-started with a fast-idle, let it fast-idle for like 10sec, and from there it was idling perfect. Has never been WOT (literally got this like 2hrs ago)

Would appreciate ANY tips on "what to look for" when getting floor-model units, thing seems fine and honestly I really could use it on tomorrow's job but no chance I'm even taking it with me, wanna ensure I break this in properly as I know I did it right on my 355t (well, the unit has just gotten better with time it seems so am guessing the break-in, and general maintenance/usage, are what causes that!)

Thanks a ton for any insight on this, it's my biggest saw ever am so excited but wanna ensure I use/treat it properly!!! I should probably be clear Re my intentions....Once it's been broken-in for at least a week or two (I work 3-6d/week), it'll get "the normal Echo package" IE a heavy exhaust mod, no airbox mod needed since this thing's airbox is amazing, and - of course / most importantly - a carb-richening!! Figured I should mention that, I do this w/ all my 2-strokes and echo's actually seem to respond to it the best, but again this is my 1st saw w/ a compression gauge / first >42cc saw, so don't wanna err/ruin something by assuming!

 

[Cerberus]

Actually even if break-in is the same as it'd be for any climbsaw, something I'm a bit uncertain on is full throttle and heavy/prolonged throttling at full/Wide Open Throttle(WOT), for instance I don't know any #'s but I feel like it'd probably be a bad idea to un-box the saw, and go spend 5hrs+ bucking up Oak trunks... at the same time I think some are of the idea / stance that, for 'break-in', that you want to run it, from the start, in the manner it should be used (IE mostly WOT or idle, minimal 'in-between' RPM's)

Another thing I realized I'm uncertain on is modification especially for this saw...my gut says I'll need to richen the carb right away for it to be proper at WOT and not idle-out once hot...but will be wanting to mod/gut the muffler (the airbox on this thing looks incredible, I haven't inspected how much airflow the filter-element has available to it but the filter on the carb's intake is amazing it's a 2-sided mesh-type 'box' filter that fits on the carb throat it's far 'breathier' than any I've ever seen/owned!)

 

[sledneck22]

Just go cut wood with it avoiding WOT no load situations.
Keep it pinned in the cut.
Typically, new oem are good to go out of the box. If you're particularly worried about it, you could richen your first tank or two to 40:1 (assuming echos call for 50:1 mix).

 

[Czed]

I had two of them for 7 year's no issue's
Other than fine dust getting by the
Air filter.
Put a 0 ring on the air horn extension that goes into
The air filter.
It will stop fines from getting through into the engine.

 

[Cerberus]

tl;dr -- not used in wood yet, but the 2nd time I went to test it (IE today's first test), it stumbled-out and died on idle after 10-15sec. I pull the cord, it starts back up fine, then dies in another 10-15sec. Instinct says "just turn up the Idle, maybe Low, carb screws" but want opinions/advice here before I tinker on a brand new, unknown-to-me powerhead!

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I made a thread for this on OPE forums as well and also got the "seal that air-filter" comment, SO frickin' glad because I'm anal/OCD about fines getting in (and about the fuels I use), all my saws get better with age and don't want this one being different, so am incredibly thankful to have learned Re poor filter-to-carb sealing before actually cutting!!

What max bar size would you guys scoff at on this? I know 24" is the OEM max.....and I know Tree Buzz tells me that surpassing that is moronic....but the only guy I know IRL who I respect, who has good equipment & is conservative in its use, he has (2) 590's, one with the 24" OEM bar and another w/ a 36" Tsumura bar, I literally checked-in with him yesterday to verify how the setup was running as I know he just got that bar like half a year ago, but he says he's loving it still! Obviously he's not pushing into it, just let the chain do the work....anyway I AM going to buy a >24" for this saw, am just uncertain how big....would love you guys' thoughts on this one, I can't make sense of the fact that doubling displacement doesn't double "usable bar-length", if anything I'd figure that "HP per CC" would go UP as displacement increases!!

 

[Czed]

tl;dr -- not used in wood yet, but the 2nd time I went to test it (IE today's first test), it stumbled-out and died on idle after 10-15sec. I pull the cord, it starts back up fine, then dies in another 10-15sec. Instinct says "just turn up the Idle, maybe Low, carb screws" but want opinions/advice here before I tinker on a brand new, unknown-to-me powerhead!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


I made a thread for this on OPE forums as well and also got the "seal that air-filter" comment, SO frickin' glad because I'm anal/OCD about fines getting in (and about the fuels I use), all my saws get better with age and don't want this one being different, so am incredibly thankful to have learned Re poor filter-to-carb sealing before actually cutting!!

What max bar size would you guys scoff at on this? I know 24" is the OEM max.....and I know Tree Buzz tells me that surpassing that is moronic....but the only guy I know IRL who I respect, who has good equipment & is conservative in its use, he has (2) 590's, one with the 24" OEM bar and another w/ a 36" Tsumura bar, I literally checked-in with him yesterday to verify how the setup was running as I know he just got that bar like half a year ago, but he says he's loving it still! Obviously he's not pushing into it, just let the chain do the work....anyway I AM going to buy a >24" for this saw, am just uncertain how big....would love you guys' thoughts on this one, I can't make sense of the fact that doubling displacement doesn't double "usable bar-length", if anything I'd figure that "HP per CC" would go UP as displacement increases!!

The best thing to do to those saws
Is muffler mod and pull the limiters
And retune.
Google it there's many threads on it.
24" is my max on those saws
I used mine mostly in hardwood
With a 24"
Any larger I went to a 70cc and up.

 

[Cerberus]

The best thing to do to those saws
Is muffler mod and pull the limiters
And retune.
Google it there's many threads on it.
24" is my max on those saws
I used mine mostly in hardwood
With a 24"
Any larger I went to a 70cc and up.

Re Muff mods, any thoughts/tips for someone who has success with them but usually thinks "I bet I coulda done this quieter, w/ same lack of restrictions"? For starters, on this type of setup, I'd put a hole in the central wall/baffle if one exists, hopefully it's empty-can like the 355T was and all mods are simply 'porting/polishing' the muffler's intake-porting (and the washer's porting) if they're smaller than the block's exhaust port (like on the 355t), then just a matter of removing the 'spark plate' & 'restrictor plate'

Can't help but feel this saw's air intake is soooo choked-off, it's got that channel to the flywheel but that is vacuum it's not giving air it's taking it, will link an echo video showing what I mean if not clear on that, but that great big air filter element can only suck available air and the air-slots (which are unscreened ) on the side of the filter-cover housing are crazy insufficient smaller than the 355's actually, will be modifying this filter-covering for sure so that thing can breathe!!

Ample air, no exhaust restrictions and carb tuned a scratch rich worked awesome for my other echo's they are still strong as ever am really hoping to see same with this, will be getting a larger bar to use as needed not routinely, was considering going with Stihl since it seems most-liked for b&c's but this whole "moutn type" for these larger saws has me confused, may jsut order the brand my buddy used for his 36" (should note I did confirm this, he still loves it, has two 590's a 20 or 24 and the 36 and uses & loves both, even some of the pages for the bars on bailey's that are 36" bars say "powerheads 60cc and above", I've run a 16" on my 25cc climbsaw before it was fine and I bet that effect dissipates as you go bigger displacement (not shrinks, IE it's like every 10cc somehow gets you less bar-size, should be the opposite, these engines are not near efficiency at sub 1/10mL displacement!)

[edit to add: for context I'm not looking to put a 36" on mine...this thing is already "a lot of saw" for me, I'm a small guy and my biggest saw was a 42cc....will be aiming around 26-->32" I think, the idea being that that setup will just be for when I'd otherwise be fighting trunks, I know saws can push longer bars than they'd like w/o ill effect, am sure it can hurt clutches and whatnot if you push them this way constantly but used right and just moving the bar at the saw's speed, ensuring you're not letting wood sit on/pinch while cutting, should not be hard to make a cut w/ oversized bars!]

 

[Cerberus]

This is why I want a longer than recommended bar, so the next time I'm in such situations I can deal w/ the PITA of maintaining chain-speed and avoiding pinch, not fighting to beaver-cut my way through
(had actually known the 590 was likely my choice for many months, don't know why I delayed so long, but after getting out of my spurs finishing this huge pair of norfolk pine I found I had to spend like 2hrs, and come back the next day, because my groundsaw was out of service and my 16" 355t was my 'strong saw', so it was like this:


Might be hard to see but the far side has a notch out too.... in this case I would see a 32" via 590 fell this easily, I left enough heavy lean on this stump that it was simple felling just an issue of bar-length so had to make mini 'holding wood' in the center

 

[Woodpecker]

You didn’t get the answer you wanted over on the tree buzz so you come here and ask the same silly question about running a 28+” bar on a 590? The answer is the same over here: get a 70cc or bigger saw to run that size of bar with. If you cannot find a brand new 70+cc saw there are several to choose from in the classifieds here.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I figured it was a joke from the first post. Breaking in a floor model saw

Running a 24+ on a 60cc saw

I had a 590 for 3 years with a 20. I too at that time thought that was a big saw lol. It’s a great saw for the money.

 

[Piston Skirt]

Can't help but feel this saw's air intake is soooo choked-off, it's got that channel to the flywheel but that is vacuum it's not giving air it's taking it, will link an echo video showing what I mean if not clear on that, but that great big air filter element can only suck available air and the air-slots (which are unscreened ) on the side of the filter-cover housing are crazy insufficient smaller than the 355's actually, will be modifying this filter-covering for sure so that thing can breathe!

Next time you open the cover just look around the filter.