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Mastermind Meets The MS660

MustangMike

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I have a couple of questions.

1) Randy, I did not see machine marks on the piston, is it the pics, or how do you determine when to re use/replace a piston.

2) Deets, did you see any gain in performance going past 20/1000 timing advance? I think at some point it just makes it harder to start and not really stronger, but that point may be different for different saws.

And Thanks for a Great Thread!
 
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Canadian farm boy

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@MustangMike I know you asked randy but I figured I throw my $.02 in. When I built me 066 I filed my key just past .030. The saw runs great but if your not carful when starting it it will rip the pull handle right out of your hand. I eventually started braking starter cords. I ended up putting a heavier cord in and installed a D handle. I think now that I would of been better off filing .020 off the key. The saw probably would preform just as good or maybe better and would be easier to start
 

Canadian farm boy

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Something else I recently learned from a certain friendly monkey @Mastermind was that if you open up your coil gap a little you will remove some of the timing advance and if you close up you coil gap you will advance your timing a tad bit. I'm gonna try opening the coil gap on my 066 from .010 to .015 and see what happens.
 

Glock37

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Not a 54mm bore.........it's a 52mm bore. But, that's ok with me. I can make these saws really come alive. They don't quite make the torque that a 660 makes. But they wind up sporty as hell. :)


Do you use a 650 piston or a 064 piston randy if you had to replace it ?
 

Deets066

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I have a couple of questions.

1) Randy, I did not see machine marks on the piston, it is the pics, or how do you determine when to re use/replace a piston.

2) Deets, did you see any gain in performance going past 20/1000 timing advance? I think at some point it just makes it harder to start and not really stronger, but that point may be different for different saws.

And Thanks for a Great Thread!
I've never tried it in a different spot than what it's at. I could tell a gain in how it ran so I left it where it's at.
 

Backtroller

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I appreciate threads like this. Step by step and clear photos. Even the fact that everyone is so willing to share how they do it is awesome. I don't believe that there are too many places where professionals (or highly skilled amateurs) will openly share their tricks, numbers, etc. Glad to be part of this. Thanks guys.
 

Mastermind

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1) Randy, I did not see machine marks on the piston, it is the pics, or how do you determine when to re use/replace a piston.

The piston is good. Machine marks intact. Must have been the camera angle. The bottom of the skirt on the intake side always looks a bit worn on these saws......even on new ones. lol

Do you use a 650 piston or a 064 piston randy if you had to replace it ?

Either or. Same piston.
 

Glock37

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So doing some thing you can put a 640 or 650 top end with decomp where as the 064 does not have decomp but then what top cover do you use


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mastermind

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So doing some thing you can put a 640 or 650 top end with decomp where as the 064 does not have decomp but then what top cover do you use


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The bolt pattern is different between the 064 and the 650.
 

jmssaws

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I've messed with advancing the ignition a bunch on these saws and it seems 020 to 030 off the key puts you in the kicking zone, I've noticed gains to 050 and on a play saw that's where I put them but they do not kick, once you get passed 030 they stop kicking but keep gaining.

My 064 is advanced the width of the key, the farther I go the better it runs but at 020 it would rip your hand off. Lol
 
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