Laser z exmark with kohler won't start

[Steve]

Does the test light connected to ground, illuminate in terminal 5 when you put the key in the start position?

 

[Larry B]

Irrelevant post. Bad info deleted.

 

[Steve]

I guess i will jump on here.

If you connect a wire from the battery positive terminal on the starter to the terminal tab on the starter the blue wire is connected to does the starter engage and the engine crank? If yes the starter and battery cables and battery are good.

If passed this test connect a meter or test light to the blue wire and ground and turn key to start position. Do you get something close to battery voltage?
If not back probe meter or test light to S terminal on ignition switch and ground. Turn key to start. Do you get battery voltage? If yes then you need to work through all the interlock switches and associated wiring. Just because the dash lights say machine is ready to start they can still be bad. Most switches have 2 sets of contacts. Get the schematic and work through the circuit from the S terminal and the blue wire on the starter solenoid.

Not to sound like an azz Larry but have you reviewed the wiring diagram? It is the goofiest damn starting circuit I've ever seen on a mower. The starting circuit goes through a computer module in the hour meter. He has already verified the blue wires integrity as well as the battery and cables and starter motor. As soon has he reports back on the next step I asked him he is one step away from a bad hour meter module.

 

[Larry B]

Sorry, l know no hate intended. Just found the schematic. Yeah, one of the POS interlock modules. I have found those either work or are completely dead. I will shut up now and go ahead and ignore me. I just went through something similar on a Scag
Good luck.

 

[Steve]

Sorry, l know no hate intended. Just found the schematic. Yeah, one of the POS interlock modules. I have found those either work or are completely dead. I will shut up now and go ahead and ignore me. I just went through something similar on a Scag
Good luck.

No hate here either!

Worst part of message boards is you can never get a sense of inflection.

Just bringing you up to speed where we are in the diagnostic. I know you can help us!

 

[Larry B]

Looks like two circuits need to activate when the key is turned to the start position. The I terminal applies 12v (pink wire) to the 4 terminal on the start relay and the S terminal (grey wire) applies 12v to a coil terminal of the start relay and also the s-key terminal of the hour meter module. And it looks like the start relay terminal (green wire) on the hour meter module provide a ground to the other side of the start relay coil.
I may be wrong, it won't be the first time, but it appears the ignition switch applies 12v to the start relay and the hour meter module and the hour meter module applies a ground for the start relay if it senses all the interlocks in the start position.

 

[Steve]

Looks like two circuits need to activate when the key is turned to the start position. The I terminal applies 12v (pink wire) to the 4 terminal on the start relay and the S terminal (grey wire) applies 12v to a coil terminal of the start relay and also the s-key terminal of the hour meter module. And it looks like the start relay terminal (green wire) on the hour meter module provide a ground to the other side of the start relay coil.
I may be wrong, it won't be the first time, but it appears the ignition switch applies 12v to the start relay and the hour meter module and the hour meter module applies a ground for the start relay if it senses all the interlocks in the start position.

Yup, that's exactly what I came up with too. I bet if he runs 2 strait to ground he will be able to start it with the key but all the crank safety's will be bypassed.

 

[Only the Tony]

Yup, that's exactly what I came up with too. I bet if he runs 2 strait to ground he will be able to start it with the key but all the crank safety's will be bypassed.

But in the name of safety you can't suggest the OP do such a thing. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge.

 

[Larry B]

It appears to me he needs to ground pin 1 (green wire) start_relay on the hour meter module to bypass the interlocks. Also, should check the orange wire from ignition terminal A to the key_A terminal on the module.

 

[Steve]

It appears to me he needs to ground pin 1 (green wire) start_relay on the hour meter module to bypass the interlocks. Also, should check the orange wire from ignition terminal A to the key_A terminal on the module.

Yes, we are talking about the same green wire. #1 at the module or #2 at the relay.

 

[Bayoufrogg]

Does the test light connected to ground, illuminate in terminal 5 when you put the key in the start position?

Yes, pin 5 lights up when test light connected to ground.

 

[Steve]

Yes, pin 5 lights up when test light connected to ground.

Run a ground wire to pin 2 at the relay. Reinstall the relay and see if it will start and run with the key.

 

[Steve]

Been a few days...


Any updates? I know grass is growing here!

 

[chipper1]

Been a few days...


Any updates? I know grass is growing here!

Not so much here.

 

[Larry B]

Been a few days...


Any updates? I know grass is growing here!

Maybe he got it started and is out mowing grass.

 

[Steve]

Maybe he got it started and is out mowing grass.

Hope so!

 

[Bayoufrogg]

Sorry guys.. Been on vacation for 2 weeks. Push mowing when I got back was rough, lol!

Starts just fine with a ground connected to pin 2.

I normally don't care about safety switches too much but this machine has a habit of kicking up badly on tree roots (prob half my fault cause I run her fast). I'm thinking I may need to get to the root of the problem rather than bypass the safety mechanisms. The main sensor I care about is the seat switch.

Is there a way to test the hour meter other than drop another $100 and cross my fingers? The hour meter is getting input from all the safety sensors. How can I test current/ground at the hour meter to see if it's sending signal to the solenoid?

 

[Steve]

Sorry guys.. Been on vacation for 2 weeks. Push mowing when I got back was rough, lol!

Starts just fine with a ground connected to pin 2.

I normally don't care about safety switches too much but this machine has a habit of kicking up badly on tree roots (prob half my fault cause I run her fast). I'm thinking I may need to get to the root of the problem rather than bypass the safety mechanisms. The main sensor I care about is the seat switch.

Is there a way to test the hour meter other than drop another $100 and cross my fingers? The hour meter is getting input from all the safety sensors. How can I test current/ground at the hour meter to see if it's sending signal to the solenoid?

Long story short, if the module turns on and shows that it is getting signal from the safety switches, the power and grounds to the module are good. You proved all the other wires and systems by grounding terminal 2 at the relay.

If the wire from relay terminal 2 to the module is ok, and the connection at the module is good, the module is the culprit.

 

[Larry B]

Gotta love black box troubleshooting. Like steve said, check all inputs to the module are correct
Power, grounds, switches and the 2 inputs from the ignition switch. If these are all correct and the module does not provide a ground at pin 1 when the key is turned to start then the module is bad. You gotta love how manufacturers can over complicate something this simple.

 

[Bayoufrogg]

Gotta love black box troubleshooting. Like steve said, check all inputs to the module are correct
Power, grounds, switches and the 2 inputs from the ignition switch. If these are all correct and the module does not provide a ground at pin 5 when the key is turned to start then the module is bad. You gotta love how manufacturers can over complicate something this simple.

Agreed. Last thing I feel like I might need to check: is the module bad or is it the wiring btw the module and relay.