Laser z exmark with kohler won't start

[Bayoufrogg]

Laser exmark with kohler. Safety switches all light up. Battery good and charged. Turn key one click and carb solenoid clicks. Turn another click to start engine and power goes out to the hour/sensor meter. Let key go and power returns right back. Engine does not turnover or do anything.

Thought it was starter solenoid. Bought new starter and solenoid and installed. Still does same thing.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

It Could be a bad/ dirty connection somewhere.
I know it’s not the same thing,,, but I’ve some older jump start leads. I get a little spark when connected to a battery. But when the real starting current is drawn. It fails to deliver because of the copper is connected to slightly rusted connectors..

 

[stretch5881]

How long have you had the machine? I'm only asking because some people new to the tractor don't remember how to start it.

 

[full chizel]

 

[066 redeye]

Check battery connections.
Had this problem on a ride on mower 2 weeks ago.
Turn key to start,lose all power.
Cleaned terminals and all ok.

 

[Bayoufrogg]

Battery connections clean and tight.
Sensors indicators all light up.
Fuses good.

I've had the unit for 3 years now.

I did find a mouse nest near the coil when I changed the starter. Can't find a single knick/damage on any of the wiring though.

I do see some corresion on the harness with blue wire going to starter solenoid. The issue may be there. I'm not great with electrical. I know some but not a ton. I'm sure there's a way to get that one wire pin out of the harness and clean it, I just don't know what that is.

 

[stretch5881]

Does that wire have 12 volts when the switch is in the start position?

 

[Likesaws]

Had the same problem with my tractor. Voltage looked good till I tried to start it.
Turned out to be bad battery. How old is battery. I had voltage but no current. Battery was 5 years old, replaced all is well.

 

[066 redeye]

Also better to test with a test light than a digital multimeter.
Dig meter can and does give false readings on DC.
Analog meters ok.

 

[chipper1]

As was said above, you need to have 12(actually more but..) volts going to the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start.
I usually just turn the key to run, then jump the solenoid from the hot wire on the starter. If it fires up you have a problem in the solenoid wiring before that point.
What yr is the machine.

 

[Bayoufrogg]

Model number # lzas23kc524
Serial number 798713

Battery shows good voltage with meter and test light. Just for fun, hooked up my boat battery and still nothing. Ran boat on same battery all next day just fine.

All 4 sensors checkout on the digital panel.

There are three wires to the starter solenoid.. 1 large red wire from battery positive. 1 small red wire from ignition. Both of those have power.

There is one small blue wire to the solenoid. I do not have power there, even when I attempt to turn on the ignition. I replaced a corroded ignition switch. Nothing. Replaced the starter relay between ignition and solenoid. Nothing. I do not have power on that blue wire at the solenoid or at the harness near solenoid. The blue wire is also present in the harness behind the digital hourmeter. I do not have power to it there either. Maybe it does not get power, but I thought it would have.

 

[Steve]

Check the PTO switch. I had one eat my azz. The starter circuit is opened when the switch is engaged so you do not crank the engine with the blades on. Find where the starter wire goes in and out of the PTO switch and put a jumper on this two terminals. See if it cranks. If it does, there is your problem.

 

[Lcfd1124]

Check the PTO switch. I had one eat my azz. The starter circuit is opened when the switch is engaged so you do not crank the engine with the blades on. Find where the starter wire goes in and out of the PTO switch and put a jumper on this two terminals. See if it cranks. If it does, there is your problem.

The blue wire on a toro solenoid is a ground for safety switches, e-marketing and toro are basically the same machine. Try running a ground wire to the blue side of the solenoid. If it cranks you have a bad safety somewhere

 

[Lcfd1124]

The blue wire on a toro solenoid is a ground for safety switches, e-marketing and toro are basically the same machine. Try running a ground wire to the blue side of the solenoid. If it cranks you have a bad safety somewhere

Ex mark, stupid auto correct

 

[Steve]

The blue wire on a toro solenoid is a ground for safety switches, e-marketing and toro are basically the same machine. Try running a ground wire to the blue side of the solenoid. If it cranks you have a bad safety somewhere

This mower has an automotive style solenoid integral to the starter. Never seen one that operates on ground. Always excited with power.

 

[stretch5881]

This mower has an automotive style solenoid integral to the starter. Never seen one that operates on ground. Always excited with power.

I have seen both ways.

 

[Steve]

I have seen both ways.

Interesting.

 

[stretch5881]

I just looked at the wiring diagram. Wow, that's a lot of wiring and hooby-dos. I 'm not going to be any help here. I have to be hands on to figure it out. Good luck.

 

[Steve]

The blue wire on a toro solenoid is a ground for safety switches, e-marketing and toro are basically the same machine. Try running a ground wire to the blue side of the solenoid. If it cranks you have a bad safety somewhere

Ok, just looked at the diagram. This starter definitely needs B+ on the blue wire to crank. My next question is if you jump pins 1 and 4 at the starter relay with the ignition in the run position, does it crank?


Next question is with a test light hooked up between 2 and 5. Does the light illuminate in the start position?

 

[Bayoufrogg]

Ok, just looked at the diagram. This starter definitely needs B+ on the blue wire to crank. My next question is if you jump pins 1 and 4 at the starter relay with the ignition in the run position, does it crank?


Next question is with a test light hooked up between 2 and 5. Does the light illuminate in the start position?

View attachment 297663

Okay, jumped pin 1 and 4 with key "on" position (not "start" position) and it turned over.

Now for pin 2 and 5. If I understood you correctly, I put a wire in pin 2 and clamped the aligator clip of test light to it. Then I put the test light probe in pin 5 and turned key to "start". Nothing. Switched wire and probe on those 2 pins to double check if polarity issue and still no light in "start" position.