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JONSERED Jonsereds

blackbruin

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Here's the 110 I just received from @bulletpruf .
Better than the pics provided.
This will be at Duanes may gtg here in PA.
It will be ready to cut with a fresh loop of oregon lgx in .404.
I now have the "Holy trio" of jonsereds 70's muscle saws. 110/111/111s
16501509775808696920241285704625.jpg 1650151032719796432699178996338.jpg 16501510554164544366180479986424.jpg 16501510724334439591361275720296.jpg 16501514296952050040121686764560.jpg
 

bulletpruf

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Here's the 110 I just received from @bulletpruf .
Better than the pics provided.
This will be at Duanes may gtg here in PA.
It will be ready to cut with a fresh loop of oregon lgx in .404.
I now have the "Holy trio" of jonsereds 70's muscle saws. 110/111/111s

Damn, that's a fine-looking saw! Took a few years of scrounging parts before I was able to get it all done up like that!
 

binthewoods

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Can anyone help me out on the cylinder kit part # for an NE346XP? I have a 2152C that needs a new cylinder and am planning on upgrading. I tried looking it up myself and am not sure if it’s 544142907, 544142908 or something else completely different. Thanks!
 

cus_deluxe

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Im guessing one of those part numbers is for a cylinder w decomp hole, the other is for a cylinder w/o decomp hole
 

huskihl

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Those part numbers are for the NE 44.3 cylinder. Like Custer said, 07 comes with a decomp hole and a plug. 08 has the boss without the hole drilled
That makes sense. Do those look like the NE version then? I just need to decide decomp or not?
 

Battle Cross 2

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20220509_092823.jpgQuick question for you folks. Saw runs good for a few minutes then seems to pressurize the tank and stall. When it stalls theres enough pressure for a steady drip from the feed line into the side of the carb.
Also end up with the fuel line to the breather full of fuel. I feel like that shouldn't be.
Thank you for any responses.
 

blackbruin

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View attachment 336068Quick question for you folks. Saw runs good for a few minutes then seems to pressurize the tank and stall. When it stalls theres enough pressure for a steady drip from the feed line into the side of the carb.
Also end up with the fuel line to the breather full of fuel. I feel like that shouldn't be.
Thank you for any responses.
Ethanol gas doesn't help tank pressure. Also if the inlet needle spring is weak it can allow the pressurized fuel in. The tank vent is more of a breather on a jonsered. It allows air in to replace the fuel that's used so it doesn't create a vacum. UT has the expansion tanks in case of fuel entering this vent.
Look to see if you have any cracks or check the end of the inlet to the breather. It's a brass sponge. May be plugged
 

Battle Cross 2

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Ethanol gas doesn't help tank pressure. Also if the inlet needle spring is weak it can allow the pressurized fuel in. The tank vent is more of a breather on a jonsered. It allows air in to replace the fuel that's used so it doesn't create a vacum. UT has the expansion tanks in case of fuel entering this vent.
Look to see if you have any cracks or check the end of the inlet to the breather. It's a brass sponge. May be plugged
Thank you I'll check those things. I run 90 E free in all my small equipment.
 

blackbruin

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It's always nice to find popular nla items in the 2 or 3 boxes of miscellaneous stuff your consolidating...
1653868890786427604086977919346.jpg
 

binthewoods

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Does anyone know how the washers are supposed to work in a Jonsereds 70e brake assembly? Is there a certain alignment of the washers that matters or certain # of washers? I've got one that I can either put together with the brake engaged or not engaged (but not functional). I'm struggling with how to set it up so it can be both applied and released.
 

fossil

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Does anyone know how the washers are supposed to work in a Jonsereds 70e brake assembly? Is there a certain alignment of the washers that matters or certain # of washers? I've got one that I can either put together with the brake engaged or not engaged (but not functional). I'm struggling with how to set it up so it can be both applied and released.

The washers (shims) are all the same or should be. There is no lock on the brake.
I didn't find they were very effective on my 801.

From a repair manual,

KICKBACK MECHANISM. Models
451E, 451EV, 50, 51, 52E, 521EV and
70E are equipped with a kickback
mechanism to stop the chain should the
saw kickback while cutting. Mechanism
is activated when operator's hand
strikes kickback bar. Brake shoe (22-
Fig. J12 or 18-Fig. J13) is forced
against the clutch drum to stop chain.
The ignition on Models 50 and 51 is also
grounded to stop the engine.
On all models except Models 50 and
51, there should be 0.5-1.0 mm
(0.020-0.040 in.) between brake shoe and
clutch drum with kickback lever in rest
position. Add additional shims to shim
 
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binthewoods

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The washers (shims) are all the same or should be. There is no lock on the brake.
I didn't find they were very effective on my 801.

From a repair manual,

KICKBACK MECHANISM. Models
451E, 451EV, 50, 51, 52E, 521EV and
70E are equipped with a kickback
mechanism to stop the chain should the
saw kickback while cutting. Mechanism
is activated when operator's hand
strikes kickback bar. Brake shoe (22-
Fig. J12 or 18-Fig. J13) is forced
against the clutch drum to stop chain.
The ignition on Models 50 and 51 is also
grounded to stop the engine.
On all models except Models 50 and
51, there should be 0.5-1.0 mm
(0.020-0.040 in.) between brake shoe and
clutch drum with kickback lever in rest
position. Add additional shims to shim


Thank you, knowing that it doesn't lock helps! Sounds like I just need to add/remove shims until the gap is right. I was over complicating it. I don't expect it to be a real safety mechanism, I'm just having fun getting the saw back into shape.
 

sledneck22

But, is the chain sharp?
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Alright my Jonsered family experts. I know i've seen on here before but I've spent an hour searching and can't find this requested information:
I bought a nice 2054 with a cooked piston. What are my options with the smaller jonsered family piston and cylinder options. What husky equivalent should I look to put into this saw?
this is the 49cc version fyi.
 

trooney

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Why are you looking for a replacement when HL or LRB sells 2054 pistons. If it was a 2051 or 2055 piston I could see an alternative as they dont make them. Watch out for the front of the crankcase as its famous for leaking at the seam of the weld.
 

sledneck22

But, is the chain sharp?
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Is the cylinder shot?
I don't have it off yet. I was just thinking since I'm breaking this saw down that far if I had an opportunity to swap out cylinders for something with a little more umph much like putting a 357xp cylinder on a 2159c, why not do it now. plus i search for jonsered 2054 on HL and don't find snit. So I was hoping for a cross reference. I guess I'll have to dig up the oem piston part number and start cross referencing that.
 
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