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Intake air leak blues...

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Just looking for tips from the Husky pros. Heres where I'm at: saw is a 357 xp . I updated to the steel clamp all OEM new intake track. I have done this before on several 346/357 without air leak issues.

This time I used Hondabond for the first time. The leak is just forward of the inpulse hose. It's hard to pump it up to 5psi, so bad leak.... I let it set up overnight. What a pain on a glue job no base gasket. I have it apart for the third time..
I let the glue cure for a couple minutes before putting together per tube instructions. I have had mixed results dry [no glue]. At first it leaked bad under the clamp , had to use a 385 clamp. The snap clamp leaked bad.

So what is the best glue to bond rubber and aluminum and rubber to rubber?? Does anyone sand the collar so it glues better? Tips for installing dry?

Thanks for any tips... gotta get to cleaning the glue off again...

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jacob j.

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I've never tried to glue those on. I have used HP Hylomar to seal those up though. I use a very thin bead and after assembly I give it 24 hours to set. HP Hylomar doesn't dry rock hard so it's good for applications where rubber meets metal or rubber meets hard plastic. If the leak is just forward of your impulse hose, is there a crack in the actual boot itself?

http://www.valco-cp.com/hylomar.htm
 

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#1, loctite 518 is very nice in this spot. the bond from rubber to aluminum is quite good.

#2, the leak you have likely has nothing to do with the clamp. I've seen ripped boots at the impulse hose/ nipple. gotta be REALLY careful when you put these on so that the impulse nipple doesn't get pinched.
 

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That HP sounds like the HondaBond.. hmm.. It stays like rubber very pliable . I have the leak area located I think , it is in the impulse hole seat on the cylinder. It had a little scale carbon build up, wouldn't let the billows nipple seat all the way in. It's the little things that can make all the difference . I'll try a little dab of Honda bond on both sides of the nipple and seat.

Ware do you get HP Hylomar?

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need to go to napa and get some clamp cant remember what there called. they do take a special pair of pliers to crimp. @Definitive Dave has the pliers last time i check
 

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Thanks for the tips guys ... The intake and jug are back on, I went with Honda bond just in the impulse nipple area this time. My fingers are crossed, I'll re pressure test in the morning. The whole intake tract is new except the modded 199 . I always use OE parts on my worksaw builds.

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was the cylinder decked?
 

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I'm pretty sure he's using a new out of the box top end kit. I'm starting to wonder if the impulse inlet on the intake is too large from the factory and maybe using a small piece of tubing as a grommet will seal it tight without the need for sealer. There's quite a few Swedish saws with a white grommet in the impulse hole to seal it tighter at the boot or intake adapter.
 

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i think there isn't enough chamfer on the cylinder to allow the rubber nipple a "guide" as you put the pieces together. ... i add chamfer... a bit anyway, and anaerobic
 

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I will be trying a pressure check in a couple of hours will see.... If I had a lathe it would have been decked for sure. I have my eye on a 10 by 54 Atlas....
Just a gasket delete the squish is at .023, I'm at 99 exhaust, 120 tranfers, 77 intake. The timing is 3 degree's advanced. This will be a twin to my other one. I use these to thin with on rough ground.

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Well the air leak is gone finally
It now will hold 5-6 psi steady. It's back together now and tuned in just like it should. Set at 13800 no load until the ring seats. Thanks again for the help guys...

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