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Installing Small Earless Piston Pin Circlips?

Stump Shot

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Been using a straight pick by getting one end started then using it like a little pry bar to bring the other end around, all the while holding the little bugger down with my thumb. Once you get the hang of it takes a couple seconds.
Of course make damn sure it's in all the way when done.
IMG_20181208_185440144.jpg
 

Scotty Overkill

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Been using a straight pick by getting one end started then using it like a little pry bar to bring the other end around, all the while holding the little bugger down with my thumb. Once you get the hang of it takes a couple seconds.
Of course make damn sure it's in all the way when done.
View attachment 153917
This is the exact method I use. And yes, I've ping-ponged my share of circlips around the shop.....I really hate it when it's a good OEM clip. Lotta time you can't ever find them once they shoot off.
 

SteveSr

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After installation I always slide them around in the slot just to make sure ...
You are *supposed* to slide them around until the opening gap faces either up or down. This keeps them from jumping out during operation. This issue is even worse with the "eared" clips as the ear adds extra mass to the clip.
 

Termitebuffet

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You are *supposed* to slide them around until the opening gap faces either up or down. This keeps them from jumping out during operation. This issue is even worse with the "eared" clips as the ear adds extra mass to the clip.
I forgot to add the opening at top or bottom...sometimes I assume things

Sawhawgz, ruining the internet since 2012...
 

SteveSr

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Well, here is what turns out to be a most important tool especially as the decades go by...

IMG_6295.JPG

So, I removed the rings and wrapped the rod with a rag and stuffed it into the crankcase to prevent flying clip entry and mounted the piston back into the vice. I then put one side of the clip in the bore and covered most of it with my thumb. I then took an orange tuning screwdriver and pushed down on the other side. I heard a snap and didn't see any sign of the pin. Well, oh, sh!t where has it gone to now? I looked into the bore and the clip had snapped right where it was supposed to go! I next took one of my jewelers screwdrivers and rotated it until the gap faced up.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I think I may have gotten lucky! With only a sample of 1 you can't claim skill!
 

Scotty Overkill

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You are *supposed* to slide them around until the opening gap faces either up or down. This keeps them from jumping out during operation. This issue is even worse with the "eared" clips as the ear adds extra mass to the clip.
Who else cuts the "ear" off of the AM clips? I've been taking them off, using clippers. They seem to be less inclined to fail that way. And I believe it's for the very reason you stated.

I still use OEM whenever I can.
 

Deets066

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Some pistons don’t have a notch, therefore they require somewhat of an ear
 

huskihl

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Some pistons don’t have a notch, therefore they require somewhat of an ear
Or make a notch.
The new meteors come with double G clips with these great bigass ears on them. I didn't trust them even without ears so I just made a notch to fit the needle nose pliers into and used regular c shaped clips
 

Al Smith

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This is hard to believe but I've seen it ,Ferguson TO-20 with over sized pistons 3 5/16" spit the clip which was eared and passed by the piston to land on top of it and still ran .Gouged the liner ,hammered the ring lands but never missed a lick .Usually on a chainsaw it hangs in the transfer port .
 

JP56

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Who else cuts the "ear" off of the AM clips? I've been taking them off, using clippers. They seem to be less inclined to fail that way. And I believe it's for the very reason you stated.

I still use OEM whenever I can.

In every forum I have been too, on the subject of these clips, the consensus is 1) use OEM anytime you can 2) if using after market clips w the "ears", cut the ears off.

NOW, can anyone here direct me to the proper thread for, or tell me the proper way and pressures to use, to check a STIHL MS290 engine for pressure / vacuum leaks? I saw one here about 1 am and thought I bookmarked it, but now I can't find it! Lesson learned: don't do any tech research when you are exhausted and can't sleep!
 
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huskihl

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In every forum I have been too, on the subject of these clips, the consensus is 1) use OEM anytime you can 2) if using after market clips w the "ears", cut the ears off.

NOW, can anyone here direct me to the proper thread for, or tell me the proper way and pressures to use, to check a STIHL MS290 engine for pressure / vacuum leaks? I saw one hear about 1 am and thought I bookmarked it, but now I can't find it! Lesson learned: don't do any tech research when you are exhausted and can't sleep!
I usually pump it up to about 7 psi each way. If I can see the needle fall I look for a leak
 

Wonkydonkey

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I was gonna say look in the service manual for data on vac & pressure testing. But huskihl says the data.. and ask @ray benson for the service manual. Your be good to go, unless you need the cheap way, ie not the stihl way to do it .
The cheaper way is rubber and exhaust and somthing to block the intake. I pressure via the impulse others do it differently ... but that is not the stihl way but it works:cool:
 

ray benson

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In every forum I have been too, on the subject of these clips, the consensus is 1) use OEM anytime you can 2) if using after market clips w the "ears", cut the ears off.

NOW, can anyone here direct me to the proper thread for, or tell me the proper way and pressures to use, to check a STIHL MS290 engine for pressure / vacuum leaks? I saw one hear about 1 am and thought I bookmarked it, but now I can't find it! Lesson learned: don't do any tech research when you are exhausted and can't sleep!
Check your inbox for 290 service manual. It has a section on pressure/vacuum testing.
 
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