Husqvarna 576 Repair Thread.

[Onan18]

There are two rubber insulators that support the filter holder.


One here...


And one here.


They just pop out.


Dust shield also serves as a screwdriver guide.


It just pulls off.

 

[Onan18]

Time to get the short circuit wires out.


They fit nicely in this groove in the case.


Remove the 4mm screw and pull the air injection baffle out.


The wires are attached to the controls here.


One pulls off the front.


And the other pulls out the side.

 

[Onan18]

Now the wires can pull out.

Four screws hold the intake in.


One here...


One here...


And two here.

 

[Onan18]

Intake lifts out as an assembly.


The top screws are much longer than the bottom ones.


Disconnect the choke arm and separate the carb from the filter holder.

 

[Onan18]

Let's have a look in the carb, ignore all of the extra stuff, it is still just a carb.


Four screws hold the metering diaphragm cover on.


Pretty sure this had something to do with the saw burning up in the first place.


Not too bad on the inside though.


Be sure to pull the needle out before cleaning.

 

[Onan18]

Single screw holds the fuel pump cover on.


No surprises here.


Nice and clean, but getting a bath anyways.

 

[Onan18]

Muffler is held on with four screws.


They take a 5mm allen.


And off.


Nice.

 

[Onan18]

Let's get the cylinder off, 4mm Allen, crack them loose in a cross pattern.


Cylinder off, boot comes with it.


Did you order yours original recipe or extra crispy?


Get this paperweight out of the way.

 

[Onan18]

Tank next, two 4mm Allen screws.


One here.


And the other here.


Off.


Going to need a new A/V mount.

 

[Onan18]

Carb floor next, there is SUPPOSED to be four screws holding it in...


Well, it is a Husky. @RI Chevy


Out.

 

[Onan18]

Two 4mm Allen screws hold the oil pump in.


Pull it out.



And the lines.

 

[Onan18]

Case screws next...


Four here.


One here.


And one here.

 

[Onan18]

The 576 has crank stuffers so the normal c clamp splitter will not work. Husqvarna makes a special splitter for this model but if you do not have it you can heat up the bearing pocket area with a propane torch and tap it apart with a brass hammer.


Sometimes the bearing stays in the case.


Sometimes it doesn't.


No big deal.


Just use a bearing splitter to pull the old ones off the crank.


Easy, for reference that is the Husqvarna bearing splitter. It is expensive but worth it if you use it a lot.

 

[Onan18]

Cases nice and clean.


New parts.


Heat up the cases and drop the new bearings in.


Using the @Mattyo kit to draw the crank in, works perfectly the first time.

 

[huskihl]

Let's work on getting the clutch drum off now.

View attachment 131257
First remove the e clip.

View attachment 131258
Then the washer.

View attachment 131259
Hey @huskihl I found that 6 toof rim you were looking for.

View attachment 131260
Next lift the drum off.

View attachment 131261
And the bearing.

Sweet. Looks like a skip tooth too. I'll take it

 

[Backtroller]

Good information Joe.

I’ve never had the chance to run one of these. I’ve heard they are smooth, but powerwise, how do they compare to a 372? Looks bigger physically.....

 

[Onan18]

Good information Joe.

I’ve never had the chance to run one of these. I’ve heard they are smooth, but powerwise, how do they compare to a 372? Looks bigger physically.....

They are deceptive Pat, even in stock trim they are actually very strong, torque for days, but the A/V is so good and they are so well mannered that they don't feel impressive when you run them. They are quite stout though, will easily run with a ported 044.

 

[Stump Shot]

Who needs a tech manual with one of @Onan18 excellent threads!

 

[raumati01]

Really appreciate your efforts making these threads mate.

 

[backhoelover]

You the man joe!!!!! thank you again for a awesome repair post!!!!