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Husqvarna 359/357xp oil reservoir hole repair

popopboat

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Seems like a not-so-uncommon problem with saws from this series.

What are your inputs on repairing this?
TIG welding is unapproachable for now.

JB weld is best alternative to welding at this point, has anyone done this with JB weld or metal epoxy glues?
How did it hold and how durable it was, did it start leaking after a while?

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PA Dan

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Seems like a not-so-uncommon problem with saws from this series.

What are your inputs on repairing this?
TIG welding is unapproachable for now.

JB weld is best alternative to welding at this point, has anyone done this with JB weld or metal epoxy glues?
How did it hold and how durable it was, did it start leaking after a while?

View attachment 316373 View attachment 316371 View attachment 316372
I liked then unlike this. Damn that sucks! I bet jb weld would hold for a good while. Get it all really clean and scuff it up.
 

sawgeek

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I bought my 357xpg new in 2004 and we have many countless hours behind us and i have never had any problem with this issue nor is it in my mind a issue related to 357/359 saws.
When i have come across this issue it is on saws where the handlebar been taken off and were the longer side screws has been switched for the shorter bottom one, when mounted in wrong places the longer screws as seen can tear holes in the case due to saw movement
with huge oil pour as result.
With the shorter screws for handle bar in their corrct position in the bottom they will never reach the case even with bad/broken mounts, the moulding of the tank handle prevents that.
Best is to replace case but a costly option, best repair is absolutely tig welding, JB weld can after thourough cleaning patch it up and seal, worth a try it might hold up. I would use stainless or aluminum net as reinforcement to the JB weld.
Best preventative measure after repair is to make sure the screws is in their right position.
 
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popopboat

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....and i have never had any problem with this issue nor is it in my mind a issue related to 357/359 saws.

I have 2 359s and 2 357s, bought from different sides of the country, 2 of them have the same problem, 1 has slight wear, and 1 is almost punched through.

Ive seen a video from "thechainsawguy" (i think), where he repaired (TIG welded) the same problem.

Holes were previously repaired with some grey schmoo, but only from outside, probably without thorough degreasement, and suprisingly i needed a hammer and a screwdriver for removing it.

I mean, dissapointment gets far bigger after realising that the prevention of this would cost 0$ and 76 seconds approx.
 

sawgeek

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JB gets harder then one might think, yea, i chicken out and reinforce o_O
The ones i know whos affected by this is not happy, and just as you write 0$ and 76 seconds can save grief and oily boots followed by stand still and repairs.
Besides getting the screws right its a good bet to check the antvib springs and rubber dampeners in order to limit the saw/powerhead movement.

Love my 357, runs fast and strong, a really good saw.
 

Benwa

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Only a common issue when a doorknob uses the wrong length fasteners in the bottom of the handle. (Often getting longer bolts for the side mixed up with short ones meant for the bottom) I've had no problem with JB weld lasting the life of the saw as long as you take time to get everything TRULY cleaned and oil free before application.
 

huskihl

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Can you see the holes through the oil tank cap? If not, I would split the cases and clean everything first. If you can see them, the area needs to be completely degreased and roughed up. On my 365, the mag had rotted through into the oil tank. I put the JB Weld on the outside and then covered it up with tape so it would stay put. And then flipped the saw over and added more JB Weld to the inside with a long screwdriver. If there’s any oil residue on it at all it won’t stick
 

Benwa

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Can you see the holes through the oil tank cap? If not, I would split the cases and clean everything first. If you can see them, the area needs to be completely degreased and roughed up. On my 365, the mag had rotted through into the oil tank. I put the JB Weld on the outside and then covered it up with tape so it would stay put. And then flipped the saw over and added more JB Weld to the inside with a long screwdriver. If there’s any oil residue on it at all it won’t stick
I agree with this 100% I completely clean/rinse out the tank with straight gas multiple times, then decreaser/soap and water, and final clean with isopropyl alcohol & dry with compressed air right prior to application. I apply it from inside out myself. I haven't done it with the tape on the bottom way, but I really like that idea to hold the jb weld from running out. I'll have to put that in the memory bank. After it's set, I then scuff and clean the outside of the case and apply a nice wide patch on the outside.
 

Jimmy in NC

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Just fixed this old 575 with JB. No issues at all. Clean is key and take your time. Any rushing will result in less than stellar results.

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Jimmy in NC

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I'll also add taping the inside and then buffing the exterior smooth allows the cases still to be split if needed as there is no epoxy holding both sides. Also, if split, at that time they could be properly repaired with a TIG machine.
 

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When i have come across this issue it is on saws where the handlebar been taken off and were the longer side screws has been switched for the shorter bottom one, when mounted in wrong places the longer screws as seen can tear holes in the case due to saw movement

Yep.
 

Mastermind

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I'll also add taping the inside and then buffing the exterior smooth allows the cases still to be split if needed as there is no epoxy holding both sides. Also, if split, at that time they could be properly repaired with a TIG machine.

Sup Jimmy ????
 

Stump Shot

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@popopboat
For a different type fix without welding, consider drilling and tapping the holes to the nearest pipe thread and install a set of socket head brass pipe plugs in them with some permanent threadlocker to help keep it sealed up well. That should take your worries away of having epoxy fall off and burn your saw up.

Something like this...
9694555-21.jpg
 
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Stevetheboatguy

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@popopboat
For a different type fix without welding, consider drilling and tapping the holes to the nearest pipe thread and install a set of socket head brass pipe plugs in them with some permanent threadlocker to help keep it sealed up well. That should take your worries away of having epoxy fall off and burn your saw up.

Something like this...
View attachment 316396

Great idea Steve but I doubt there's enough meat there to get some threads on.

The npt plugs work well. You dont need much meat and they are tapered so they will seal tight. Just dont go full ugga ugga on it.

Another quick reliable option is the plastic push darts that hold our cars together anymore. A little bit of ultra gray around the base and they seal up very well and sit pretty much flush. Quick wipe of carb or brake cleaner is all thats needed and they will seal.

No chance of making the case any worse with the push darts. Used it for a temporary repair but the way it sealed up it could have stayed permanently.

Old aluminum boats that pop rivits in hard to replace locations get the same save my weekend fix............



Steven
 

popopboat

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Thanks for advices.

Cases are split, and ready for oil decontamination.

Does anyone have any clue what rods should be used for welding the case?
What is crankcase made of? Pure Magnesium, magnesium alloy or ? and if so which alloy

Heard somewhere that someone pieces of scrap crankcase for filling the holes.
 
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