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husq 385xp carb issue

oaky

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howdy sirs
finished rebuilding a 385xp over mid winter but forgot about the carb issues when i put it away.
got the high and low at about 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 turns out currently.

but what happens is when i go to adjust the low speed screw nothing happens turning it rich, i can turn the screw all the way out and itll still hold the same tune. but it does die down when i lean it up.

also the idle speed screw will not hold steady when reving up, unscrews itself. looks like theres a little hole next to where the screw threads in, a piece of plastic is suppose to go in there maybe? to hold down the screw tight?

tried some plumbers tape on the threads of the screw that didnt work. tried fitting a spring in there, springs too big so it messes with the idle speed, chain whipping. so shes sitting on the porch instead of cutting soft maple today.

oh and i pulled the limiters out, if that makes a difference. maybe it seats differently when counting out from factory settings?
 

beaglebriar

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I can't remember on that particular one but some of those HS carbs it's easy to mix up the high and low speed screw as they will interchange. Try swapping them if they're the same size thread. If that don't work then you could have a leaky welch plug. Seal it up with something like nail polish.


As far as the idle screw goes you can use some low strength loctite or some RTV on the threads works well also. I used RTV a lot on my old dirt bikes and quads. The screw will back out easy enough but still holds well.
 

oaky

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welp got the nail polish on there, nice and pretty. and the loctite for the idle screw worked mint.
but still the same tuning problem on that low idle screw.
doesnt matter how much i richen it up it still holds the same tune.

but i got the settings about one full turn and a 1/16 on each screw and it seems to be running just fine for now.
just dont understand why that low idle speed screw does that.
 

oaky

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Double check your metering lever height setting. Set too low or too high and you have problems,
is my condition a symptom of a unlevel metering lever
 

oaky

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You may also have an air leak.
that is possible i suppose, but it runs fine.

i remember i had a little husq. 51 that i got at a yard sale. said he couldnt get it going. took it home dumped out three or four acorns out the fuel tank cleaned up the tank and carb and ran fine but the same issue.
high screw adjusted fine but turning the low end screw rich had no effect. but it ran fine.. idled all day at factory settings. couldnt figure it out.

maybe im suppose to now.
 

oaky

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metering lever height is fine. press./vac tested the case, tank and carb are good.
i duno
 

beaglebriar

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Try a RWJ-4. I had one on my 385 for a while that I'm probably gonna go back to. Leave the divider in it!
 

oaky

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Try a RWJ-4. I had one on my 385 for a while that I'm probably gonna go back to. Leave the divider in it!

looked up carbs for the 385xp, walbro makes a wj-116-1 for 385-390's.
the carb you listed fits the 365-372's.

whats up homie
 

oaky

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welp never mind, retested for air leaks today and found two of them.

decompression valve was alittle loose and so was the hold down clamp for the intake boot.

problem solved for now.
 

beaglebriar

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looked up carbs for the 385xp, walbro makes a wj-116-1 for 385-390's.
the carb you listed fits the 365-372's.

whats up homie
That carb will bolt right on and has a larger venturi than the 385/390 carb. Some say it's harder to tune but I haven't had that issue.
 

beaglebriar

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welp never mind, retested for air leaks today and found two of them.

decompression valve was alittle loose and so was the hold down clamp for the intake boot.

problem solved for now.
You can also have leaks around the carb shafts if they're worn. It's not a real common problem but it is possible. I've scrapped a few for that reason.
 
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