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Husky 51 saw build project

huskihl

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Mason's Dad, Darryl made this for me!
7444d7b0f83dc734a995f74518bcb73e.jpg
He spelled Boner wrong...
 

jmssaws

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The permatex sealant has a 4 hr cure time before use. That's obviously worst case. It had 2-3 hrs before starting.
And I've never had a problem with it with less time. It's so thick and gooey that it's not going anywhere.
I use dirko and never wait for it to cure.
 

jmssaws

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Same for me with Motoseal. A 2 series husky can be running about 20 minutes after the cylinder is on
However long it takes to finish assembling the saw after the cylinder is how long I wait for dirko to cure,10 or 15 min.
I rarely use sealor though,it's nasty and it stinks but dirko is the best I've used so far.
 

malk315

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I use 518 or the permatex copy and I don't wait on them to cure for 24 hours.
The load on that seal can't be anything as crazy as combustion side right? It's involved in the lower half where intake charge comes up transfers it keeps that charge from leaking out jug base to case seam right?

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mdavlee

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The load on that seal can't be anything as crazy as combustion side right? It's involved in the lower half where intake charge comes up transfers it keeps that charge from leaking out jug base to case seam right?

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Right. It might be 2 lbs of pressure. Most saws won't have an air leak with no sealer.
 

paragonbuilder

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Yup, some guys are overly anal, IMO, and that's fine. It doesn't hurt anything if they want to wait, or replace bearings that are still good, or polish their saws with shoe polish, whatever.
I honor their passion, but mine will be directed elsewhere
 

huskihl

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Yup, some guys are overly anal, IMO, and that's fine. It doesn't hurt anything if they want to wait, or replace bearings that are still good, or polish their saws with shoe polish, whatever.
I honor their passion, but mine will be directed elsewhere
This is no place for that sort of blasphemy
 

huskihl

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Yup, some guys are overly anal, IMO, and that's fine. It doesn't hurt anything if they want to wait, or replace bearings that are still good, or polish their saws with shoe polish, whatever.
I honor their passion, but mine will be directed elsewhere
I was polishing some saws up today with old skool Red Armor. The detergent in it is invaluable for cleaning plastic. And the esters leave behind a shine that is unsurpassed.

I ran out and switched to the new stuff without ester. Not nearly as impressive of a finish.



Just so we all know
 

paragonbuilder

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I was polishing some saws up today with old skool Red Armor. The detergent in it is invaluable for cleaning plastic. And the esters leave behind a shine that is unsurpassed.

I ran out and switched to the new stuff without ester. Not nearly as impressive of a finish.



Just so we all know

You're going to have to teach me this psp thing Kev. I just can't comprehend it...
Lol
 

malk315

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I made some corrections to the posts above mainly that the washer shown over the oiler actually goes over the thin metal cover that covers the oiler setup. The washer protects that thin metal cover and oiler under it from the clutch drum and rim sprocket. I checked it this eve to make sure it's right and it is -- it's actually pretty hard to mess up you would never get the metal cover over the oiler if that washer was under it.

Did a few more things tonight before I hand the saw back to Tom tomorrow -- compression test:

IMG_20170219_205742766-X2.jpg


A respectable 170 PSI. Not sure if it's much better than one with a base gasket installed or squish brought down some but I'll take it!

IMG_20170219_204726039-X2.jpg


And that washer is right where it belongs between clutch and metal oiler cover. I should have double checked torque on the case bolts while I had the clutch off. I double checked all other fasteners and all is well.

IMG_20170219_212304410-X2.jpg


Above is the mesh type air filter I switched to -- I like it much better than that paper thing that looks like it's always caked with crap.

IMG_20170219_212823521-X2.jpg


And a better shot of the opened up deflector with spark arrestor screen gone. Hopefully the top cover won't get too beat up like this but this is a work saw where cool as in temperature is more important than cool as in looks ;) She's not a shelf queen.

That's all for tonight gents.
 

KenJax Tree

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I was polishing some saws up today with old skool Red Armor. The detergent in it is invaluable for cleaning plastic. And the esters leave behind a shine that is unsurpassed.

I ran out and switched to the new stuff without ester. Not nearly as impressive of a finish.



Just so we all know

[emoji1]
 

Derf

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IMG_20170219_212304410-X2.jpg


Above is the mesh type air filter I switched to -- I like it much better than that paper thing that looks like it's always caked with crap.

That's all for tonight gents.

All very cool, Eric.
One thing I wanted to mention, Husqvarna recommends the "flocked" filter for normal use - that's the one that always looks caked with crap. It actually is a good filter material, if you keep it clean. They recommend the mesh one for winter cutting as it's less prone to clogging in cold weather due to frost. It also is not as good at stopping fines from entering the carb, so that's why they don't recommend always using it. In either case, the flocked and mesh might flow air a smidgen differently in my mind, so the tune might change a hair. Probably not enough to worry about any of it, but I just thought I'd bring this up, you know, for the anal guys who like waiting 24hrs and stuff.
 
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