Humiliated by a 350 husqvarna no start

[OnTheRoad]

I'm playing with a 350 husky with maybe a few tanks through it that will not start. It won't hit a lick no matter what I do.

Piston and cylinder are perfect and compression is very strong though I can't find my tester. I did find my leakdown tester.

Air, fuel, spark, compression.

The plug fires readily and I set the coil gap with a business card.

Fuel is fresh truefuel.

The plug is dripping in raw fuel after fewer than 10 pulls and the muffler is full of fuel. I've tried the needles all the way in, one turn out, etc and with the plug out and the throttle in the operating idle position it's blowing fuel mist out the plug hole. In fact blowing drops of fuel out of the plug hole. The only way it doesn't blow drops is when the throttle is WFO.

Obviously it's way rich, too rich to fire. No amount of carb adjustments affects this.

Plug still fires so I don't see how a new plug would help. Carb must be the issue, but why?

 

[jacob j.]

It sounds like something is holding the inlet needle open, or the inlet needle seat in the carb is damaged - either of those conditions will allow the carb to pass too much fuel.

I'm assuming you rebuilt the carburetor?

If so, you need to:
1. Check the metering diaphragm to see if it's "sucked in", keeping the inlet needle open
2. Check the inlet needle seat for debris or damage
3. Check the inlet needle itself for wear

If all of the above checks out, You may need to increase the "pop-off" pressure, by installing a stiffer spring under the inlet needle lever.

 

[OnTheRoad]

Thanks for the reply, jacob. I have not rebuilt the carb. If we assume the carb is the issue am I better to spend $12 on a rebuild kit or $17 on a farmertec carb?

 

[Dub11]

I'd rebuild the carb.

 

[angelo c]

Thanks for the reply, jacob. I have not rebuilt the carb. If we assume the carb is the issue am I better to spend $12 on a rebuild kit or $17 on a farmertec carb?

$27 fer both ain't too bad either ....the Chicoms are straight potluck...rebuilding sometimes doesn't help ...sometimes it does.....again -pot luck

 

[huskihl]

Change the plug also. Wet plug might not fire under compression

 

[Stump Shot]

Thanks for the reply, jacob. I have not rebuilt the carb. If we assume the carb is the issue am I better to spend $12 on a rebuild kit or $17 on a farmertec carb?

Definitely the rebuild kit in most cases. If you have a pressure tester you can tell if the carb is okay if it will hold 7psi at the fuel inlet of the carburetor before installing back in the saw.

 

[drf256]

I’m with them above. Plus, make sure you didn’t shear the flywheel key-it will fire at the wrong time and flood out. I’ve been there once and it was a head scratcher for sure. Need fuel/compression and spark (at the correct time) for a saw to run.

Pressure test the carb if you can, assembled. It should hold at least 15psi, or sumptins wrong.

 

[Michael Rupley]

It's flooded

 

[OnTheRoad]

Thanks for the replies. I will order a rebuild kit and update this thread.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

For a long time if I transported my 385 fueled up and ready to go. When I got to where I was going to be cutting it would be flooded. Wouldn't start for anything. Couldn't get a carb kit locally so it was playing the waiting game for it to come. Saw ran fine other than would flood out when transported (bad needle) Found that pulling the plug out and yanking on it a few times to clear out some excess fuel and adding a few drops of two cycle oil before putting the plug back it. Hold the saw wide open no choke, yank on it with all you had and would usually start on the first pull. Used it like that for a long time until I found the motivation to rebuild the carb.


Steven

 

[Mattyo]

pinch the fuel line, turn the saw upside down, pull the starter cord gently... if there is a pile of fuel that comes out the muff then it was flooded. you can also pull the plug and turn the crank over and see how much fuel comes out with the saw upside down

once the flood issue is resolved, lets see if you can get it to pop. put a tad of brake cleaner down the throat and see if she pops

its a husky 350, so does it have the upgraded clamp, muff support, and new goop around the bearing cap?

 

[OnTheRoad]

pinch the fuel line, turn the saw upside down, pull the starter cord gently... if there is a pile of fuel that comes out the muff then it was flooded. you can also pull the plug and turn the crank over and see how much fuel comes out with the saw upside down

once the flood issue is resolved, lets see if you can get it to pop. put a tad of brake cleaner down the throat and see if she pops

its a husky 350, so does it have the upgraded clamp, muff support, and new goop around the bearing cap?

I diddn't try your method but did open the carb and remove the plug and crank it over. Yes it was flooding badly. Next step is to rebuild the carb and a kit is coming from stens. A new plug changed nothing.

 

[smokey7]

Just fyi there is a few brake cleaners that are not flammable. The red crc stuff with the black spray nozzle is not flammable. Most stuff with 45%voc will light without issue. There is also a red can crc with a red spray top that lights and a green can crc with a black top that lights too.