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How's my transfers

firefighter

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Good day fellas
So after lerking around for quite some time, and procrastinating about learning to port I finally started grinding. I have a timing wheel ect, I'm working on a 1985 266se. Was a parts saw for buddy's 266 he got both for 150 cad.

How's my transfers look for a newb 🤣

My numbers were off a touch. No base gasket numbers
squish 0.040
Exhaust 105 atdc
Ex duration 150
Intake 140
Bd 29

I don't have access to a lathe but I am searching for someone kinda local. So I'm stuck with a little higher squish. What would y'all do wanting to make a good solid cutter. And I have made an ironhorse pipe also.
 

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MG porting

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Don't waste your time with ironhorse pipes and don't lower the lower transfers any further than what you've shown you're learning so don't feel like you have to get everything perfect the first go around if you're exhaust is 105 it should make good torque for a work saw just remember bevel you're port work.
 

firefighter

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So I rechecked the the numbers 3 times, huskilh you were right not that I doubt a veteran to my newb knowledge.

The numbers are
Ex - 104 atdc
Ex duration - 152
Intake - 146 btdc
Blow down of 18
 

firefighter

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Don't waste your time with ironhorse pipes and don't lower the lower transfers any further than what you've shown you're learning so don't feel like you have to get everything perfect the first go around if you're exhaust is 105 it should make good torque for a work saw just remember bevel you're port work.
Thanks I didn't plan really was just taking the sharp edge off. Since a portion of why you port is to have better air flow/ movement. My first numbers were off a bit. Wheel must have been a bit loose. Good thing I didn't grind anymore. On any of the other ports.
 

huskihl

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If you don’t have the ability to raise the uppers, don’t raise the exhaust, just widen it up to 65% of the bore but leave 1.5 MM to the edge of the skirt on the piston. If that has the really narrow intake, you could do some widening if there is also room to make the block bigger. Some of the 266 had a really narrow intake, where the 272 was considerably wider.

And quit watching Ironhorse
 

firefighter

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If you don’t have the ability to raise the uppers, don’t raise the exhaust, just widen it up to 65% of the bore but leave 1.5 MM to the edge of the skirt on the piston. If that has the really narrow intake, you could do some widening if there is also room to make the block bigger. Some of the 266 had a really narrow intake, where the 272 was considerably wider.

And quit watching Ironhorse
I don't have the ability to raise the transfers. I have the 90 degree attachment. I read lots about the widths and 65 was were I was aiming.

Ironhorse not good info, typically watch the other like tinman, boady and Smitty but mostly read here.
 

firefighter

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Oh also should the transfers be smoother I know roughing intake for better atomization does that apply for the transfers also?
 

huskihl

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I guess a little searching here and the other place I figured it out. Or well at least have an understanding.
He’s a crook and has no idea what he’s doing, yet he is teaching 20-30,000 people every day, or at least he was.

Sandblasted finish is pretty good “grit”. Most of us use 80 in a slotted mandrel and run it in a Dremel or Foredom
 

firefighter

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He’s a crook and has no idea what he’s doing, yet he is teaching 20-30,000 people every day, or at least he was.

Sandblasted finish is pretty good “grit”. Most of us use 80 in a slotted mandrel and run it in a Dremel or Foredom
I have vevor version of a foredom. I will put on my list of things to make tomorrow. Shouldn't be too hard to make a mandrel
 

huskihl

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I have vevor version of a foredom. I will put on my list of things to make tomorrow. Shouldn't be too hard to make a mandrel
Mine is just a harbor freight unit. Your vevor is likely nicer than mine lol.
I use a 4” pole barn spike that I cut a slot in the end with either a Sawzall or a cut off wheel. I can’t remember which.
 

firefighter

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Mine is just a harbor freight unit. Your vevor is likely nicer than mine lol.
I use a 4” pole barn spike that I cut a slot in the end with either a Sawzall or a cut off wheel. I can’t remember which.
Easy enough. I have some large nails I can convert easily enough.
 

drf256

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Those were great saws out of the box. Without machine work I do believe you will just make less power than the standard BGD/TA/MM if you touch it. The 266 were known for great compression form the factory as well.

Should be someone here from Canada that could help you out with the machine work. Porting follows the 90/10 rule. 90% of your gains come from 10% of your work, and the other 10% from 90.

I wouldn’t have touched your lowers. The first pic, where you just knocked the lip off, looks OK. Your final product just increased case capacity and did nothing for flow. Some of the best running saws I’ve run have had the lowers made smaller, not larger. Gotta remember that the crank lobes cover that lower area in the lowers for most of the crank revolutions.

You can raise the uppers with a dremel and stacked cutoff wheels. It’s not pretty but it’s effective. I wouldn’t with your current numbers though.

Kevin, as usual, is on the money here. I’d personally do nothing else to that jug, use sealant on base and open the muffler. You can try to advance the timing and see if it likes it. If it pops like hell in the cut, dial it back.
 

firefighter

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Those were great saws out of the box. Without machine work I do believe you will just make less power than the standard BGD/TA/MM if you touch it. The 266 were known for great compression form the factory as well.

Should be someone here from Canada that could help you out with the machine work. Porting follows the 90/10 rule. 90% of your gains come from 10% of your work, and the other 10% from 90.

I wouldn’t have touched your lowers. The first pic, where you just knocked the lip off, looks OK. Your final product just increased case capacity and did nothing for flow. Some of the best running saws I’ve run have had the lowers made smaller, not larger. Gotta remember that the crank lobes cover that lower area in the lowers for most of the crank revolutions.

You can raise the uppers with a dremel and stacked cutoff wheels. It’s not pretty but it’s effective. I wouldn’t with your current numbers though.

Kevin, as usual, is on the money here. I’d personally do nothing else to that jug, use sealant on base and open the muffler. You can try to advance the timing and see if it likes it. If it pops like hell in the cut, dial it back.
Thank you, I'm still learning this was a saw I had intentions of learning on. Ended up getting this saw for free cause of rebuilding and cleaning up the other one for him. So if I gets messed up I don't mind buying a piston and cylinder. I have a big bore kit but I was plagued with air leaks so just went back to the 50 mm cylinder. I already did the bgd, wasn't sure on ta as I've done all my saws which made them come alive a bit. Was thinking of picking up a hyway or lrb pop up cylinder kit also.
 

drf256

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A 272 top end will wake it up quite a bit. You can use the carb, but the rest of the intake tract is different and tough to find. The plug angle is different, but it fits under the cover.

Not tying to insult you or anything like that, just offering advice on what I’ve learned. Less is actually more when it comes to modifying factory ports.
 

ManiacalMark

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I have vevor version of a foredom. I will put on my list of things to make tomorrow. Shouldn't be too hard to make a mandrel

What kind of flex shaft does that have? Is it replaceable? Be careful not to get the shaft bent in weird angles and pushing harder than you should, they break easy. My foredom TMX is unforgiving
 

srcarr52

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I like to use 50 grit spiral wound sand paper rolls to finish transfers and intake ports. They can bend some and help finish the curvature of the transfers better than using a split mandrel.

 
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