How are the Asian 660s holding up???

[Jason628]

For cylinder screws I use the HD Loctite, and I make them as tight as my T-27 will make them (I torque it a good amount, and go around the pattern several times).

Have never had one come loose, and always have been able to remove the bolts when I need to.

That "hard" Loctite that comes on the bolts does nothing!

When I put a cylinder down, I want it to stay down. Same with muffler bolts.

When I removed the muffler cover bolts on my 462 I could not believe how tough they were to remove. The factory is following my lead! They had real HD stuff on it. I had to work them both ways numerous times to remove them.

Got them as tight as I could with my t27... figured the serrations on the screws would keep them in place. I figured wrong lol.

 

[Nutball]

The serrations can plug up some if they are removed a few times without cleaning. I also make a couple rounds of tightening: snug, then tight, then I give it all I got. You can feel the others are a little looser as others are tightened. I guess too tight could stress them enough to shear the heads off with some added heat expansion of the cylinder base. Probably just a bad batch. It may have been only one screw that was bad allowing the others to fatigue quickly and break.

 

[Jason628]

The serrations can plug up some if they are removed a few times without cleaning. I also make a couple rounds of tightening: snug, then tight, then I give it all I got. You can feel the others are a little looser as others are tightened. I guess too tight could stress them enough to shear the heads off with some added heat expansion of the cylinder base. Probably just a bad batch. It may have been only one screw that was bad allowing the others to fatigue quickly and break.

I'm just going to put some arp head studs on it. Should fix the problem hahaha. No... we got lucky it didn't appear to damage anything else. I'll do OEM screws on the next one with loctite and take a good look at the threads in the case. Do criss cross pattern three times increasing in torque each time.

 

[Jason628]

I got an 046 for cheap that had a similar issue. The screws just backed out but, didnt break. Sold it for $300 profit.

 

[RI Chevy]

Am I the only crazy person to pull the muffler cover and check piston and cylinder after using saw for a few days? I check all my saws regularly. No juice on my muffler bolts.

 

[Nutball]

Am I the only crazy person to pull the muffler cover and check piston and cylinder after using saw for a few days? I check all my saws regularly. No juice on my muffler bolts.

I don't like to put unnecessary wear and tear on my bolt heads and threads. If I've had a saw apart, I just take a close look at the cylinder through the spark plug hole after the first run. If there's scoring in the back, there's likely scoring on the exhaust side visible from the plug hole.

 

[RI Chevy]

SO...pulling the muffler cover off isn't a good thing to do? Hard on the saw?

 

[Jason628]

SO...pulling the muffler cover off isn't a good thing to do? Hard on the saw?

I'd be worried about wearing out the threads on the bottom holes that go into the case. It's just baluminum it will eventually wear out. Time serts are a pain in the azz

 

[Jason628]

SO...pulling the muffler cover off isn't a good thing to do? Hard on the saw?

I have a tiny inspection camera that I think will work well for that sort of thing. Will fit right down the spark plug hole. They're like 10-20 $

 

[RI Chevy]

Cool. I'll check them out.

 

[Nutball]

SO...pulling the muffler cover off isn't a good thing to do? Hard on the saw?

Personal preference, I wouldn't want to wear out the brittle magnesium threads and waller out the screw head after several tightening cycles.

 

[Jason628]

Not saw related but, I just picked up a 1990 s10 pickup 4x4 4.3l with a 5spd. Guy I bought it from said it had a rod knock and he was going to fix it but, never got around to it. Comes with all the parts to fix it he says... looking through the box of parts I have one piston, one rod, a pair of bearings and a gasket kit. Engine is a basket case as he took one head off. I'm like wow.... this guy really thought he could fix it just replacing one rod and piston!? I'm going to swap everything over from my old truck that's been crashed one too many times and is an automatic...

 

[MustangMike]

Jeff, it is a Stihl, you don't need to baby them! I run saws for years w/o checking the piston, and they all keep running just fine, have not lost one yet!

 

[Nutball]

Remember that guy who would take the cylinder off his new 661 or whatever at the end of each day? He was complaining about scoring when it was just marks from breaking in.

 

[kjmatson]

Mine is running really well but only has a few tanks through it. After I finish the 3 projects I have going on Husqvarna 55, 371xp, and stihl 036 I'm going to pull the jug and get the numbers off it and go from there.

 

[Nutball]

I have a tiny inspection camera that I think will work well for that sort of thing. Will fit right down the spark plug hole. They're like 10-20 $

Link to the $10-20 camera.

I used a $600 Snap On camera. It looks pretty good on the screen, but still shots are terrible: only 480x640 or around there.

Anyone know how much case compression a 660 needs to run well? I was about to test run a farmertec cylinder I had gotten the transfers too high on and figured it might not be worth running yet until I get them lower. Timing is at 94, 110, 80. Would be a good test for JB Weld in upper transfers. I used some on my FT 250, and the epoxy is still in good shape, but a dark brown now from high heat.

 

[Slumberjack]

Link to the $10-20 camera.

I used a $600 Snap On camera. It looks pretty good on the screen, but still shots are terrible: only 480x640 or around there.

Anyone know how much case compression a 660 needs to run well? I was about to test run a farmertec cylinder I had gotten the transfers too high on and figured it might not be worth running yet until I get them lower. Timing is at 94, 110, 80. Would be a good test for JB Weld in upper transfers. I used some on my FT 250, and the epoxy is still in good shape, but a dark brown now from high heat.

Epoxy them down to 123 or so? Unless you’re gonna machine it and epoxy the intake up then raise the exhaust. I’m sure you know better than me I’m just thinking out loud hoping someone won’t jump on me for saying anything. Good luck with it sir

 

[Jason628]

I bought it off of wish lol. It's not terrible for less than $20 here's a picture of the inside of my rm250

 

[Jason628]

Link to the $10-20 camera.

I used a $600 Snap On camera. It looks pretty good on the screen, but still shots are terrible: only 480x640 or around there.

Anyone know how much case compression a 660 needs to run well? I was about to test run a farmertec cylinder I had gotten the transfers too high on and figured it might not be worth running yet until I get them lower. Timing is at 94, 110, 80. Would be a good test for JB Weld in upper transfers. I used some on my FT 250, and the epoxy is still in good shape, but a dark brown now from high heat.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274939001525?hash=item4003a43ab5:g:qGQAAOSwbb1hHaEO

Mine is like this but, didn't come with the wifi thingy. Hooks to my phone and uses an app.

 

[Nutball]

Today was a good time to swap the higher compression cylinder that I'm trying epoxy in. I've been running this mildly ported Farmertec 660 cylinder cutting firewood this year, at least 20-30 tanks through it. I've run it hard, and it never failed. Was still running strong when I took it apart today and I found this:




I think it was just a weak spot in the plating because it came with a hole and thin area which I polished up well to not peel more or catch the rings, but it flaked off down lower.

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