How are the Asian 660s holding up???

[MG porting]

I did put the OEM Stihl lever and trigger in it but it didn't change anything. It wasn't that cheap. I had to get Ace hardware to order it. $22 for both.

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Probably why it didn't work for you because you had to go to ACE. Lol. It's a common problem even with the OEM but I've been pretty lucky with them so far.

 

[MustangMike]

I see that Hyway makes a MS 440 crank … they cost more than Huztl, but does anyone know if they are better?

 

[MG porting]

I see that Hyway makes a MS 440 crank … they cost more than Huztl, but does anyone know if they are better?

Not sure but I've been wondering the same thing.

 

[MustangMike]

The other thing that would be real nice to know is when (and what) upgrades Huztl makes.

I know they make them, just have no idea how to find out what and when.

 

[MG porting]

The other thing that would be real nice to know is when (and what) upgrades Huztl makes.

I know they make them, just have no idea how to find out what and when.

Yea the problem is they made a lot of upgrades and they still have a lot of the old stock in circulation so you won't know for sure until that windls down. I'm not worrying about any of the 440s I built because each of them were the upgraded kits and before they went to there owner's they passed the stress test so there going to be running a long life.

 

[MustangMike]

I've had 2 come back with crank problems, both had AM Big Bore pistons which are heavier than OEM 460.

Going forward, I'm insisting on Saber at 40:1 and I'm putting OEM pistons in them.

I think when you run the heavier pistons at higher RPMs, they are vulnerable.

 

[MG porting]

I've had 2 come back with crank problems, both had AM Big Bore pistons which are heavier than OEM 460.

Going forward, I'm insisting on Saber at 40:1 and I'm putting OEM pistons in them.

I think when you run the heavier pistons at higher RPMs, they are vulnerable.

It's possible but you can't tell if the person running the saws aren't just running 50:1 which I don't care what crank you're running it's going to cook the big end bearing cheap gas don't have any lubricating value to it like old-school fuel use to I run 32:1 95 octane in most saw except two of my personal Saw's which have to run 110 octane now the guys I've built Saw's for there running the saw 92 octane at 32:1 and they've been running the *s-word out of them.

 

[MustangMike]

I took the second 440 big bore (that failed) apart today. I'm not sure what is the chicken and what is the egg.

P+C look fine, but the big end of the rod bearing is cooked.

Clutch spring is broken, as is a the clutch, and a pin fell out of the case and was in there (I thought I locked them all, but it must have vibrated free, this saw had some time in it and ran real well).

The oiler wasn't working because the drive arm just spins around on the nylon work gear.

Both seals look good, and I can't see any problems with the seals.

The saw would start, but as soon as you let off the throttle it stopped. Lower rod bearing has a lot of play.

 

[MG porting]

I took the second 440 big bore (that failed) apart today. I'm not sure what is the chicken and what is the egg.

P+C look fine, but the big end of the rod bearing is cooked.

Clutch spring is broken, as is a the clutch, and a pin fell out of the case and was in there (I thought I locked them all, but it must have vibrated free, this saw had some time in it and ran real well).

The oiler wasn't working because the drive arm just spins around on the nylon work gear.

Both seals look good, and I can't see any problems with the seals.

The saw would start, but as soon as you let off the throttle it stopped. Lower rod bearing has a lot of play.

That's a bummer.

 

[RI Chevy]

It's Chinese Mike...
Nuff said

 

[MustangMike]

Jeff, I never considered them much more than a learning experience, but I have learned a lot and some of them are still doing really well.

The cylinder is still good, so I will improve my original port job a bit and put it on another saw. This cylinder has better #s than most of them.

 

[RI Chevy]

Chinese just copy things and make them the cheapest way possible. They do ZERO engineering. Have ZERO idea regarding items that need spring steel or stronger steel. They just take the cheapest way out and produce garbage.
Just want the money.
OK. Rant out.

 

[Pincher]

The cylinder is still good, so I will improve my original port job a bit and put it on another saw. This cylinder has better #s than most of them.

Pic of cylinder and timing #s?

 

[MustangMike]

Did not take a pic, but the #s when I installed it last were: Squish .020, Ex 102, Tr 120.5, In 78. IMO, these are pretty close to where you want your #s to be for a 440 or 460. Several of my jugs have Ex less (numerically) than 100 and don't seem to run as well.

For 660s an Ex in the high 90s and In in the low 80s seem to work well. The longer stroke in the 660s seems to change things.

Jeff, you are mostly correct, but they do innovate a little. Just look at the little lever they added to the 660 carbs to fix the high idle problem, very innovative IMO. They also sell complete saws backed by a warranty, so they had to make improvements. I also think they have been improving reliability on their products, so prices have risen some. If there are a lot of gripes about something, they seem to address it.

That said, you don't want to deal with them on an issue, they SUCK!!! My advice, put everything on a charge card, and if it is not right just cancel the charge through the Charge Card company. IMO, there is not other way to deal with them.

 

[ammoaddict]

Did not take a pic, but the #s when I installed it last were: Squish .020, Ex 102, Tr 120.5, In 78. IMO, these are pretty close to where you want your #s to be for a 440 or 460. Several of my jugs have Ex less (numerically) than 100 and don't seem to run as well.

For 660s an Ex in the high 90s and In in the low 80s seem to work well. The longer stroke in the 660s seems to change things.

Jeff, you are mostly correct, but they do innovate a little. Just look at the little lever they added to the 660 carbs to fix the high idle problem, very innovative IMO. They also not sell complete saws backed by a warranty, so they had to make improvements. I also think they have been improving reliability on their products, so prices have risen some. If there are a lot of gripes about something, they seem to address it.

That said, you don't want to deal with them on an issue, they SUCK!!! My advice, put everything on a charge card, and if it is not right just cancel the charge through the Charge Card company. IMO, there is not other way to deal with them.

Can you elaborate on the 660 fast idle correction? Part number, picture etc.. Mine has never worked. I even put OEM lever and trigger in it and it didn't change a thing.

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[MustangMike]

Some of the things I have learned:

1) Always flush the chinses bearings before using them, they are often have grit in them, which I believe is responsible for many of the failures.

2) The 660s saws are holding up much better than the 440, but mine may be an unfair comparison. All the 440s I built were Hybrids or Big Bores, which put additional stress on the crank. The 440 Hybrid that has an OEM piston sees a lot of use and is running just fine. Lower piston weight is likely key. (It should be noted that I myself did not have any failures running AMSOIL Saber at 40:1, the failures were running Stihl oil, so I now insist the owners run the Saber.)

3) Most jugs seem to hold up if they are paired with good pistons + rings. I built 2 saws using the HL Supply 460 "Door Buster" jugs (they were $20 each) and both saws are still doing well. Both have used OEM 460 pistons that were in good shape and I recovered from broken saws. One is on a 460 and it sees moderate use as a firewood saw. The other is on a Asian 440 hybrid and it sees heavy firewood use. I routinely check with them and both owners are very happy with their saws.

4) Big Bore and Hybrid 440s (with heavier pistons) vibrate more than a 440 with a standard weight piston. The Vibration dampers that come with the 440 kits are not as good as OEM. Replacing the upper left vibration damper with OEM helps a lot, and often top handles have to be "recontored" to ensure they do not contact the engine on the right side, or excessively torque the engine when they are assembled. Be careful when you bend them, it is easy to ruin them.

 

[MustangMike]

Can you elaborate on the 660 fast idle correction? Part number, picture etc.. Mine has never worked. I even put OEM lever and trigger in it and it didn't change a thing.

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I don't know a part #, but I took a pic. A piece of metal inside of the choke lever holds the throttle lever on high idle until the throttle is blipped … very smart! (Automatically engages when choke is engaged).

 

[MustangMike]

The introduction of this carb seemed to correspond with the introduction of the blue cover saws. (the Blue cover parts saw I ordered had one).

 

[ammoaddict]

The introduction of this carb seemed to correspond with the introduction of the blue cover saws. (the Blue cover parts saw I ordered had one).

If you just order a carb, is there a way to specify the one with the lever?

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[ammoaddict]

I don't know a part #, but I took a pic. A piece of metal inside of the choke lever holds the throttle lever on high idle until the throttle is blipped … very smart! (Automatically engages when choke is engaged).

Thanks for taking the time to post the photo.

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