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Homemade Reduced Weight Bar

CR888

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So after busting a few teeth off of the first bit, I got my RPM's, oil use, and downward pressure sorted out. Thankfully, @USMC615 had sent me a few spare cutter heads, so the next five holes were much easier.
View attachment 33390
Now it's time to remove the steel between the bore holes.
Truthfully, the hardest part is done. Cutting between the holes is easy and fast with a good cutoff wheel. Then a little finishing, removing burrs and smoothing things out. Dealing with the epoxy will be fun.
 

Jon1212

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Is it possible to see a flex comparison with the metal removed vs the stock bar .
Brian,

Any thoughts on how to perform this test?
I am thinking hanging a 10 pound weight perpendicular to the flat surface with the other 32" resting across the top of the flexing bar. This would allow me to take a measurement of the amount of flex. Then I would just swap the places of the bars for comparison.

The GB is slightly narrower rail side to rail side, but that shouldn't effect a flexion test.

I did read today on Madsens that a conventional 32" Power Match bar weighs 4.7 lbs, and a Reduced Weight bar of the same dimensions weighs 3.3 lbs.
 

hseII

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Brian,

Any thoughts on how to perform this test?
I am thinking hanging a 10 pound weight perpendicular to the flat surface with the other 32" resting across the top of the flexing bar. This would allow me to take a measurement of the amount of flex. Then I would just swap the places of the bars for comparison.

The GB is slightly narrower rail side to rail side, but that should effect a flexion test.

I did read today on Madsens that a conventional 32" Power Match bar weighs 4.7 lbs, and a Reduced Weight bar of the same dimensions weighs 3.3 lbs.

Due you want me to weigh mine to see if they are correct?
 

Philbert

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Since this is a test bar, maybe you can fill each void with something else, to see how easy each is to work with, as well as to see how each holds up? Kind of like a pavement marking test?

Fill one void with epoxy; one with HDPE; and one with some tasteless, gluten free, non-GMO cracker?

Philbert
 

Jon1212

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Since this is a test bar, maybe you can fill each void with something else, to see how easy each is to work with, as well as to see how each holds up? Kind of like a pavement marking test?

Fill one void with epoxy; one with HDPE; and one with some tasteless, gluten free, non-GMO cracker?

Philbert

I can tell you I won't be working with that two part clear epoxy again. That *s-word was a royal pain to apply. Oh well, I'll let it cure for the full 24 hours, and see if I can sand it down.

I need something that has more of a paste consistency at application.
 

Philbert

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I need something that has more of a paste consistency at application.
I mentioned 'micro-balloons' in an earlier post. Adding these to the epoxy resin thickens it, and converts it into a paste or filler. Used a lot in boat building.

West System is one of the better known brands, and offers a lot of technical info. You could contact them, describe your application, and ask their advice.

http://westsystemcom1.site.mobi/app/the-105-system/4965226/36/

Philbert
 
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