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HL Supply MS360 cylinder review

Stump Shot

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Well as most of you know, from the inquiry thread, the cylinder that I received was not good enough for testing purposes. So without a build thread, I thought maybe some other tests could be possible, just to see what we could see.

Without holes it was impossible to mount up.
IMG_20170214_204818761.jpg

Also notice the lack of mounting studs for the top cover.
 

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Was curious as to the flatness of the base. Dragged it each way across 400 grit sandpaper on top of a piece of glass.

IMG_20170219_202850198.jpg

Decided to try the exhaust port as well.

IMG_20170219_202940559.jpg

As you can see from the pictures, it is not very flat. If this were to be used, further clean up would be necessary to avoid leaks.
 

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I'm thinking of having it sawed in quarters. If anyone else has any destructive testing done let me know. So far the guy I know with the band saw is still leary of cutting through the plating.
 

Czed

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That's pretty bad the worst one i had was a chinese ts400 cylinder the exhaust bolt holes were not drilled and the piston was cracked i drilled and tapped the bolts and cleaned up the old piston two years ago i think still running now.
 

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wcorey

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I've made cutaway cylinders and didn't have any issues with the band saw.
If cut from outside in it will just chip the plating away as it breaks through and shouldn't have much effect on the saw blade.
 

huskihl

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Was curious as to the flatness of the base. Dragged it each way across 400 grit sandpaper on top of a piece of glass.

View attachment 57296

Decided to try the exhaust port as well.

View attachment 57300

As you can see from the pictures, it is not very flat. If this were to be used, further clean up would be necessary to avoid leaks.
Now I see what you meant by no cylinder holes.
Could drill 5mm holes from the bottom up. Then enlarge them from top down if that would make it run. Have to be a reeeally long drill bit though
 

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Now I see what you meant by no cylinder holes.
Could drill 5mm holes from the bottom up. Then enlarge them from top down if that would make it run. Have to be a reeeally long drill bit though

If the rest of the cylinder warranted such an action, I would pay a machine shop to do just that for me. This just is not the case and would be like putting lipstick on a pig. There's just so much wrong here everywhere I look. No way I'm taking that saw back appart again for this. I personally believe that this should be enough information to make a rational decision here. I think that these folks have a good idea, but need more time to get a real salable product.
 

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Thought I'd share my notes on the stock MS360 with OEM 036 cylinder, FarmerTec piston, which measures the same as the original and a Hyway base gasket.

Squish .034" w/ gasket
Intake opens at 78 degrees
Exhaust opens at 104 degrees
Transfers open at 124 degrees

IMG_20170215_112654408.jpg
 

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The piston is also a bit of a disappointment, with the pin placement being .007" off, the top of the dome being low and the skirt as well. In other words the pin is placed a little higher than it should be. This compared to the OEM and FarmerTec which measured identical.

IMG_20170215_110132625.jpg
 

drf256

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Mine has the holes drilled.

Seems like I got the better of the bunch.

The inconsistency is worse than the machine issues themselves.

I'd rather it be a consistent POS than an inconsistent OK jug. At least you have an attack plan that way.
 

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Mine has the holes drilled.

Seems like I got the better of the bunch.

The inconsistency is worse than the machine issues themselves.

I'd rather it be a consistent POS than an inconsistent OK jug. At least you have an attack plan that way.

You(we) are at least able to come up with an attack plan, just think of the poor regular guy that just want's to get his saw going again, I would think this would be a problem for him/her, let alone the seller, if just the basic elements are not met to even get it on the saw, let alone how well it would run.
Was talking to "band saw guy" this morning over coffee and he remarked to me that the blade in his saw had a bad spot in it, so I figured it was perfect timing to have him saw the cylinder for me. Were going to start by just sawing it in half straight down the middle and see if that is not enough to get good pictures of the transfers as is without cutting through them as well. So off it went, when I get it back I will post what can be seen for you guys, and my summation.
 

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Well saw man came through for me, so here's some pics of the cylinder in half. Notice the slag/air pockets. Some would make hot spots with a piston siezed as the end result. Really is a booger in the transfer that would be hard for a ring to get by. Was able to measure a flake of plating .0015". Also notice the plating lapping up onto the squish band and sticking out proud. Not really any good news to share. :(

IMG_20170228_094429736.jpg

IMG_20170228_094456591.jpg

IMG_20170228_094516181.jpg
 
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Tor R

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Stump Shot

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I've run out of ideas to help show what goes on here, but if someone else has any ideas for me to do, I would give any thing else a go at it if I could. But in reality I think there is enough here to say this is definitely not a good Piston and cylinder kit. So to summarize the cylinder is just plain bad, the piston not up to par, the rings looked OK the pin fit well, I liked that there were two different sets of circlips to choose from. Hope this is enough information for @Gentleman to help make whatever decision he needs to. I really could not in good conscience give any kind of recommendation to use this at this time. Hopefully these folks can get some more practice under their belts and get a usable product to the marketplace in the future. My only hope is this feedback will help do just that. SS
 
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