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Hitachi EX60/ JD 70D midi Ex

davidwyby

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My brother is looking at one of these that is a project for scrap value. Runs but needs a track, planetary, and it was partially disassembled for who knows why. Tweakers or unfinished cannibalization of parts maybe. I'll get some pics. Wanted to see if @timg or anyone else had any input or opinions. Thanks!
 

timg

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Rubber tracks or steel rails David? When you say planetary are you referring to final drive or swing case? Always is cheaper to buy complete finals on mini's then trying to build them with some new parts. Pictures will help on an evaluation and hours on machine.
 

davidwyby

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Sagebrush33

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Overall, from the pics I t seams to be in fair shape. Some scuff marks but it doesn't look beat up.
Hours known?
 

davidwyby

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@The Extractor…think he needs approved still or something.
 

The Extractor

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Hi all. I am working on this excavator.

Hour meter shows 5475, who knows the actual.

Supposedly this machine can use steel or rubber tracks with no changes.

In the pics it is missing the steel track and the planetary hub ,sprocket, guts and other parts for the final drive.
I don’t have any of those parts.

I assume it will puke hydraulic oil out of that final drive unless I remove and cap the lines?
 

Sagebrush33

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Hi all. I am working on this excavator.

Hour meter shows 5475, who knows the actual.

Supposedly this machine can use steel or rubber tracks with no changes.

In the pics it is missing the steel track and the planetary hub ,sprocket, guts and other parts for the final drive.
I don’t have any of those parts.

I assume it will puke hydraulic oil out of that final drive unless I remove and cap the lines?
Greetings and thanks for joining. Someone will be along to answer your question. I would think the final drive would leak but, i am unsure.

Anyways, I just wanted to say welcome here.
 

timg

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Welcome to the site @Extractor. First off the hyd travel motor circuit should be separate from the final drive oil. And if no one has messed with the motor it could be started. Can't tell by your pic.
Second- Going from steel rails to rubber tracks normally takes a different idler cushion spring dimension but yes same parts. This will take a press//cage to modify. You need to pull assembly out of track frame to verify springs condition. Because it could be broke/leaking grease from the adjuster cylinder or seized up totally.
Main thing is to start it up and check play in swing circle bearing. This machine is older and has some time on it. Although it's not beat or welded up for sure. Also looks to have an aux hyd circuit for attachments too.
To be honest it's close to staying a parts machine.
Figure a partial undercarriage, final drive and motor, idler,cushion ass., You are going to be an easy 12-15k plus the price of machine and no labor. That's a big bite not
Knowing if machine has hyd issues or symptoms. Which it may with it's age.
Compare this to buying a known working used runner in that class for 20-40k you kinda see both sides of this orange coin. I'll watch this thread for future inputs. Sorry so lengthy a reply.
 
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timg

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BTW, I'm noticing a track frame being bent outward on inner side that was pulled. You need to verify it's not all broke up or worn in that area as the idler beats up, down, and sideways in motion. The channel is basically wear pads.
 

davidwyby

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Too bad it's there, not here.

@timg what are the chances of good used or repairable parts?
 

timg

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Too bad it's there, not here.

@timg what are the chances of good used or repairable parts?
Slim to none David. That machine looks good but has some age. To find a final/motor combo used that hasn't been run dry and burnt up would be hard. Aftermarket combo new as mentioned 5k. Set of rails in steel or rubber approx. 5k. And that's without turning a key yet to find other unknown issues. It's a big gamble for sure. Hope this helps, not trying to be negative but just reality checking.
 

davidwyby

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Ran when parked, still runs. He got it for nothin' and he/we can do all the work/repairs. We're fixers...just gotta learn the ins and outs of this particular broken junk. As cheap as he got it, maybe another parts machine 2=1...
 

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First thing I would do is check the other side for oil/metal contamination. And do the same for the swing case. If they are dry or full of metal then that will gauge the direction to go. You have 3 plugs per final. Level check, drain, and fill. Swing case will have a dipstick and drain only.
 

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Hi again everyone. Thanks for all the information and advice.

This machine will only be for small projects and messing around at my house. It’s not going back into daily service.

I ran the engine a bit and it runs good.
I only wanted to run it a bit but I couldn’t get it to shut off and made a little mess due to center rotary manifold lines all being disconnected.
My plan was try and start and immediately shut down. Didn’t happen haha.

There is some metal debris in the hydraulic tank.
I Plan to clean it and the filters before I run it anymore.

The fuel tank had mud and water but I cleaned it out.

Hours show 5500 or so.

I think the swing box is dry when I checked the dipstick.
Should that be gear oil in there?
I read these are prone to cracking.

I found a used final drive motor for 1500.
I think I may purchase it if everything else on the machine checks out.

I am planning to have craned onto a trailer and deliver to my house 1/4 mile away. If I can find a HD trailer.
I can spend time and do the proper checks
And not damage it worse.

It needs to leave its current location due to property being sold.

I am not too concerned with track frame I can straighten and weld whatever it needs.
I think the adjuster failed and they broke the track. It has grease spaghetti out the back end of it.

I talked to with guy who owns it and he said they broke the track and parked it. He saw it run before digging a reservoir.
He said it is a gray market machine unfortunately.

Thanks everyone, keep it coming.
 

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Couple things guy. The travel motor maybe seperate from the final on that one. So verify your used part is complete motor and final drive. The swing case is empty due to pinion bearing and seal failure. The oil is probably transferred to the swing circle/rotec bearing area. Most swing case take TO4-30wt oil. Bad news is it's a grey machine. Meaning it was manufactured for other countries other than USA. Parts interchangeability could be an issue so buy used with caution. Previous owner prolly bought this machine for 10k and had it shipped over in a container box. I understand your enthusiasm and part time digger. But it can put you broke and frustrated in a hurry. You can buy grey working machines on the cheap and get them floated here for normally 1-2k depending on the size of machine. Hope this helps.
 

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I asked for a picture of the part but no dice yet. He said it is only the motor, so that doesn’t help all that much.

What about parts from a newer machine about the same size?
Giant headache and waste of time?

If I get frustrated I will part it out or scrap it, it’s a hobby / learning thing.
I’ll try to not be stubborn and fix it to spite the good advice.
 

timg

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Buddy it's all your call for sure. Just giving experienced advice. I can't port your saw. But can help with what I know. Glad you listened and you checked on the used part. Because from what I see you need a final and not a motor. Even scrap is down $100-150 lower this time of year. Hopefully October will bring an upswing in scrap prices. Your question on interchangeability with newer is something a used machine wrecker may be able to supply There are some big ones out your way and most all truck freight.
 

The Extractor

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Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to give me advice.
The used part was only the housing and one other part. Waste of time.

Do you have any favorite salvage yards? Names?
I searched but didn’t come up with much.
 

davidwyby

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I didn't dig but the other day I googled the JD version and there are a mess of them out there for dismantling.
 
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