Help me choose a new zero turn mower

[Duce]

Gravely.

Looked at Gravely, like many others, just added cost for name IMHO.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> Do I really want a $12,000 commercial grade mower?

No, you want a USED mower that someone else already lost money on with the depreciation. If you ever have to resell it, the price for a used riding lawn mower is $350 tops and $1200 for a zero turn. You see ads on Craigslist marked 1/2 of retail, a year or two old, with "hurry won't last at this price", two months later, still unsold.

> I've got a Toro Titan 54"

My neighbor has one, considering it's abuse, it has been problem free. I have seen him mow down small saplings with it going through brush and slash and over grown yards where stuff was 12" plus high. He and the so called dealer service center, let it run for over a year on one spark plug before I was called to check it out for rough running. The Kaw FR651 is a great engine, imho.

I think if you buy a used Kubota 4x4 SCUT that can take a FEL, along with a belly mower, you will not regret it. There are huge advantages owning a diesel 4x4 tractor/mower.

If you have a septic system and have to dig it up for service, you will not regret having a FEL on your 4x4 tractor. Nor will you regret being able to use it to tow carts full of firewood from a downed tree, moving trailers, plowing your small garden plot, unloading stuff from a tractor trailer, having a load of gravel dumped and moving it with your 4x4 SCUT, or most important if you live in snow country, plowing your driveway with it.

I would look for something that has a locking rear differential.

If you get a zero turn, make sure you get one where the muffler is inside the frame and not outside the frame. Because a muffler makes a horrible rear bumper, plus, it can give you quite the burn, plus, it can hang up when going in a trailer because it kills the attack angle. On a ZTR get the 5 lug wheel (5x4.5) wheels in the biggest size possible for that model. Or at least 4x4 rims with a 2"+ plus center hole. Some of these mowers are using non-standard bolt hole spacing that looks like 4", but, is really 3.75.

Whatever you get, get one without digital screens, USB gizmos, or one that needs to call home for updates or have to be brought into a dealer to be programmed after you work on it doing something such as changing a carb. Newer ones have DFI or EFI. Something that has a real alternator is a plus.

One thing you should be aware of using a ZTR having your arms in the raised position for 2+ hours is not for some people. With a zero turn or belly mower, stepping over the deck is not for some people. If you break an arm you are not driving a ZTR while in a cast.

Just an example of what to look for that might fit your needs, used,:

Kubota B7200

 

[USMC615]

> Do I really want a $12,000 commercial grade mower?

No, you want a USED mower that someone else already lost money on with the depreciation. If you ever have to resell it, the price for a used riding lawn mower is $350 tops and $1200 for a zero turn. You see ads on Craigslist marked 1/2 of retail, a year or two old, with "hurry won't last at this price", two months later, still unsold.

> I've got a Toro Titan 54"

My neighbor has one, considering it's abuse, it has been problem free. I have seen him mow down small saplings with it going through brush and slash and over grown yards where stuff was 12" plus high. He and the so called dealer service center, let it run for over a year on one spark plug before I was called to check it out for rough running. The Kaw FR651 is a great engine, imho.

I think if you buy a used Kubota 4x4 SCUT that can take a FEL, along with a belly mower, you will not regret it. There are huge advantages owning a diesel 4x4 tractor/mower.

If you have a septic system and have to dig it up for service, you will not regret having a FEL on your 4x4 tractor. Nor will you regret being able to use it to tow carts full of firewood from a downed tree, moving trailers, plowing your small garden plot, unloading stuff from a tractor trailer, having a load of gravel dumped and moving it with your 4x4 SCUT, or most important if you live in snow country, plowing your driveway with it.

I would look for something that has a locking rear differential.

If you get a zero turn, make sure you get one where the muffler is inside the frame and not outside the frame. Because a muffler makes a horrible rear bumper, plus, it can give you quite the burn, plus, it can hang up when going in a trailer because it kills the attack angle. On a ZTR get the 5 lug wheel (5x4.5) wheels in the biggest size possible for that model. Or at least 4x4 rims with a 2"+ plus center hole. Some of these mowers are using non-standard bolt hole spacing that looks like 4", but, is really 3.75.

Whatever you get, get one without digital screens, USB gizmos, or one that needs to call home for updates or have to be brought into a dealer to be programmed after you work on it doing something such as changing a carb. Newer ones have DFI or EFI. Something that has a real alternator is a plus.

One thing you should be aware of using a ZTR having your arms in the raised position for 2+ hours is not for some people. With a zero turn or belly mower, stepping over the deck is not for some people. If you break an arm you are not driving a ZTR while in a cast.

Just an example of what to look for that might fit your needs, used,:

Kubota B7200

Good write-up!

 

[dmb2613]

That Kubota ZD series mower is the best out there but they are not cheap but will last a long time and still bring good $ and ride like a Caddy

 

[Al Smith]

IMO you will do better with a model with a mid frame deck rather than a front mount deck like a Grass Hopper .Those don't side hill with a hoot .With my Toro I can use it for a small tractor ,gather firewood in a yard cart ,haul my log splitter around etc .It's got the rear hitch plus a 2" trailer ball .because they will actually zero turn like a bull dozer to can back stuff up very easily and stick it in a space a lot more easy than a tractor .Turns on a dime and gives you 9 cents change .

 

[beaglebriar]

Take a look at Country Clipper. I'm not sure if there are any dealers in your area but they are very well built and have some cool features that others don't. Single joystick steering, quick release deck belt and flip up deck for easy access to the blades for servicing. Bought mine new in 2008 and it's been bulletproof. Not proud to say but I've beat the crap out of it.
A guy I work with has a bad boy and it scalps terrible because the front end is ridged. The CC has a center pivot so scalping is not an issue. If nothing else this gives you a few things to look for.

Also good quality wheel motors are a must for longevity. If they aren't at least fan cooled with spin on oil filters keep looking.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> flip up deck for easy access to the blades for servicing.

I wish all riding lawn mowers had that.

 

[Seachaser]

Looked at Gravely, like many others, just added cost for name IMHO.

Not really. It is very smooth rider. I have two. One is commercial. It will cut faster than I can go. Wide open it flies

 

[Duce]

If you want to finish quickly Exmark laxer D 144” cut.

 

[bertfixessome]

Do not buy anything till you have closed on the house so know you will need it
As for going with a commercial , that is a very sound idea because apart from JD & Toro most residential ZTR's are junk.
Do not buy Hustler as they have just been bought by Stanley B & D so will become part of the MTD stable of trashed good brands .
Probably will end up being rebadged Dewalt , trading on the good name Dewalt used to have before they started downgrading their products .
Spartan has just been bought by Toro and will either be down speced or discontinued
The current spec of Spartans is way higher than it should be for the price so they were never going to be a long term viable brand .
The 200' drainage ditch could be a big problem depending upon the slope of the batter as ZTR's are very unstable along slopes.
Ride ons cut quick, push mowers & line trimmers cut very slow and getting a deck that is too big can increase the total mowing time.
I can cut 2 acres faster with a 32" tractor than most can cut it on a ZTR with a deck double that size but you can't get Greenfields in the USA
Those trees that are 60" apart now will be 54" apart in a couple of years so todays big deck can become tomorrows push mow
I would suggest you look at an ex commercial used mower for now till you have been there for a couple of years and know what the mowing requirements are and how your mowing habits fit in and what the grass mix is .
Different decks handle different grasses to varying degrees.
Fabricated decks tend to give the worst cuts on long grass as there is nowhere for the clipping to go unlike pressed decks where the discharge area gets bigger towards the chute, but pressed decks require more maintenance & don't take rough use & dropped branches very well .
Some welded decks will push over stalky grasses requiring double or triple cuts.
Other decks will get overwhelmed and leave grass turds all over your lawn or just plain clog the discharge chute every 10 minutes.

Then there is your requirements , bowling green smooth cut , football field stripes , long & soft for kids to fall over on ,etc , etc .

Long term remember that a garden, even 2 acres of it will require substantially less time & effort over all than 2 acres of grass which is the most labour intensive ground cover you can possibly do .
Pebbles or river stones for the ditch with a couple of frog ponds will reduce the mowing and only require a spray with round up twice a year which you can do on the mower ( several contractors have a sprayer mounted on a platform above the engine so they can spray with one hand while they mow with the other.
On this topic, lap bars that come close enough to be held in one hand make the mowing a lot easier as you have a free hand to pick up debris / spray etc .
I am guessing that along with the new house will be an increased family size as well putting more strain on your free time.

For the first couple of months call in the local contractors , watch how they cut your yard & what equipment they use .
Contractors tend to use gear that is universally OK , not the best for your yard but it is a good starting point .
If you mow quick ( sounds like you do ) then a mower with suspension is a must unless you enjoy lower back pain .

Spending $ 20,000 on a mower that will last a life time is a good idea
Spending $ 20,000 on a mower that is unsuitable is just a strain on your wallet.

Asking "which mower I should buy" on any open forum like this will usually get a lot of testimonials from people for their pet brands , one of which could be the right mower for you or your conditions
Spend some time on complaint type forums where those who have bought lemons come to vent their spleens & those who got bad service trash the offending brand.

Trying to do 2 acres in under an hour will be a recipie for a disaster , particularly if you don't have time to mow one week in spring.
I can do it on most mowers but I am beat when I finish ( nb I am 70 ) so need the hour I saved to recover
Big overlaps on the blades is good, the bigger the better as less chance of leaving uncut strips .
Cutting 48" once is a lot less time than cutting 61" twice

People on a forum like this are reluctant to admit the mower they bought was junk as it makes them look like idiots .
So Duce gets my bravery award for his honesty.

Try doing it the other way for more realistic advice
"What mowers are not suitable for cutting 2 acres with a 200' drainage and a lot of pine trees"
When you have ruled out the bad, nothing is left but the good .
And when presented that way people will be more open to post about their disaster mowers.
If you see a trend, like every one saying their Husqvarna gave nothing but troubles & a bad cut then you can be assured that you can safely avoid that brand or that particular model.
Graelys are usually good but a couple of the current models have really bad deck problems on a particular sized deck .

 

[Gullet]

 

[OPEfan]

View attachment 367836

How many acres are you cutting with that and how long does it take you to mow?

 

[OPEfan]

Do not buy anything till you have closed on the house so know you will need it
As for going with a commercial , that is a very sound idea because apart from JD & Toro most residential ZTR's are junk.
Do not buy Hustler as they have just been bought by Stanley B & D so will become part of the MTD stable of trashed good brands .
Probably will end up being rebadged Dewalt , trading on the good name Dewalt used to have before they started downgrading their products .
Spartan has just been bought by Toro and will either be down speced or discontinued
The current spec of Spartans is way higher than it should be for the price so they were never going to be a long term viable brand .
The 200' drainage ditch could be a big problem depending upon the slope of the batter as ZTR's are very unstable along slopes.
Ride ons cut quick, push mowers & line trimmers cut very slow and getting a deck that is too big can increase the total mowing time.
I can cut 2 acres faster with a 32" tractor than most can cut it on a ZTR with a deck double that size but you can't get Greenfields in the USA
Those trees that are 60" apart now will be 54" apart in a couple of years so todays big deck can become tomorrows push mow
I would suggest you look at an ex commercial used mower for now till you have been there for a couple of years and know what the mowing requirements are and how your mowing habits fit in and what the grass mix is .
Different decks handle different grasses to varying degrees.
Fabricated decks tend to give the worst cuts on long grass as there is nowhere for the clipping to go unlike pressed decks where the discharge area gets bigger towards the chute, but pressed decks require more maintenance & don't take rough use & dropped branches very well .
Some welded decks will push over stalky grasses requiring double or triple cuts.
Other decks will get overwhelmed and leave grass turds all over your lawn or just plain clog the discharge chute every 10 minutes.

Then there is your requirements , bowling green smooth cut , football field stripes , long & soft for kids to fall over on ,etc , etc .

Long term remember that a garden, even 2 acres of it will require substantially less time & effort over all than 2 acres of grass which is the most labour intensive ground cover you can possibly do .
Pebbles or river stones for the ditch with a couple of frog ponds will reduce the mowing and only require a spray with round up twice a year which you can do on the mower ( several contractors have a sprayer mounted on a platform above the engine so they can spray with one hand while they mow with the other.
On this topic, lap bars that come close enough to be held in one hand make the mowing a lot easier as you have a free hand to pick up debris / spray etc .
I am guessing that along with the new house will be an increased family size as well putting more strain on your free time.

For the first couple of months call in the local contractors , watch how they cut your yard & what equipment they use .
Contractors tend to use gear that is universally OK , not the best for your yard but it is a good starting point .
If you mow quick ( sounds like you do ) then a mower with suspension is a must unless you enjoy lower back pain .

Spending $ 20,000 on a mower that will last a life time is a good idea
Spending $ 20,000 on a mower that is unsuitable is just a strain on your wallet.

Asking "which mower I should buy" on any open forum like this will usually get a lot of testimonials from people for their pet brands , one of which could be the right mower for you or your conditions
Spend some time on complaint type forums where those who have bought lemons come to vent their spleens & those who got bad service trash the offending brand.

Trying to do 2 acres in under an hour will be a recipie for a disaster , particularly if you don't have time to mow one week in spring.
I can do it on most mowers but I am beat when I finish ( nb I am 70 ) so need the hour I saved to recover
Big overlaps on the blades is good, the bigger the better as less chance of leaving uncut strips .
Cutting 48" once is a lot less time than cutting 61" twice

People on a forum like this are reluctant to admit the mower they bought was junk as it makes them look like idiots .
So Duce gets my bravery award for his honesty.

Try doing it the other way for more realistic advice
"What mowers are not suitable for cutting 2 acres with a 200' drainage and a lot of pine trees"
When you have ruled out the bad, nothing is left but the good .
And when presented that way people will be more open to post about their disaster mowers.
If you see a trend, like every one saying their Husqvarna gave nothing but troubles & a bad cut then you can be assured that you can safely avoid that brand or that particular model.
Graelys are usually good but a couple of the current models have really bad deck problems on a particular sized deck .

Great write up - maybe I should mow with my tractor for a little bit to “get to know the yard” before buying. Thanks for the advice.

 

[OPEfan]

If you want to finish quickly Exmark laxer D 144” cut.

I was thinking of getting a his and hers. We’d get the lawn done in 3.5 minutes.

 

[OPEfan]

> flip up deck for easy access to the blades for servicing.

I wish all riding lawn mowers had that.

That really is an awesome feature, great for blade changes and pressure washing the deck.

 

[RCBS]

> flip up deck for easy access to the blades for servicing.

I wish all riding lawn mowers had that.

Kubota just nailed it with these machines.





Estimation of weekly mowing is around 3 acres...probably just under. Takes me an average of 1 hour, 20 minutes to finish. Good bit of open flat but a whole lot of stuff to go around in areas. Handles a side slope like a champ with the gnar tires. They honestly don't do much damage to the turf in my experience. Below pic was shortly after purchase. It's almost 8 years old in the pic already.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> but pressed decks require more maintenance & don't take rough use & dropped branches very well .

Also, they do not like 200+ pound people stepping on them to get on and off the mower.

> Other `decks will get overwhelmed and leave grass turds all over your lawn or just plain clog the discharge chute

I still can not believe my Honda RM215 walk behind does such a good job and the lawn looks great and grows great.

Then I followed it maybe two weeks later with a Craftsman riding mower I fixed and it left gas poop all over the place that turned into brown piles of mess.

> On this topic, lap bars that come close enough to be held in one hand make the mowing a lot easier as you have a free hand to pick up debris / spray etc .

My neighbor is disabled and uses his ZTR for a lot including riding along and picking up pine cones with this:

EZ Reach & Grab Pickup and Reaching Tool

EZ Reach & Grab Pickup and Reaching Tool

Amazing deals on this Ez Reach & Grab Pickup Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

and putting it in a five gallon bucket between his legs. Then he mows his lawn.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

Kubota generally speaking produces nice machines. Though a ZTR like that would be a waste of money on my property as I get little use from even a riding lawn mower. I could use a SCUT for my garden, tree work (FEL), and tilling.

 

[Squareground3691]

Kubota generally speaking produces nice machines. Though a ZTR like that would be a waste of money on my property as I get little use from even a riding lawn mower. I could use a SCUT for my garden, tree work (FEL), and tilling.

My Z724 has a low center of gravity and wide rear tires , on slopes it’s a winner, just one of the main reasons for getting it .

 

[bertfixessome]

Kubota just nailed it with these machines.

View attachment 367899



Estimation of weekly mowing is around 3 acres...probably just under. Takes me an average of 1 hour, 20 minutes to finish. Good bit of open flat but a whole lot of stuff to go around in areas. Handles a side slope like a champ with the gnar tires. They honestly don't do much damage to the turf in my experience. Below pic was shortly after purchase. It's almost 8 years old in the pic already.


View attachment 367900

Judging from what is under the mowers in the photo, looks like you have quite hard soil in which case those chevron treaded agricultural tyres would be fine.
But on a soft soil or sandy soil they would be a disaster

Still it does look like a good machine with some suspension, decient footboards and ROPS
Flip up decks are a good idea which is one reason why I like the articulated mowers
However pressure washing decks is not a good idea as it can lead to water ingression into the spindle bearings
A good compressor & a 4' to 6' long air duster is the best thing to clean a mower with .