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legdelimber

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I seen some rainy days at times, But never bad enough that ya needed a gang plank to get underneath the truck!

Ah some days you just gotta do what you can, with what we have.

Just give everything a good thought first and try to not get a hand pinched .. or worse.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Doing a little bit of work on my car....
What type of repair are you doing that requires the entire body to come off the frame? As ive already told you once before, with older high miles vehicles, the "toyota" word doesnt automatically protect the owner from having to do significant maintenance.
 

SawAddictedFarmer

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What type of repair are you doing that requires the entire body to come off the frame? As ive already told you once before, with older high miles vehicles, the "toyota" word doesnt automatically protect the owner from having to do significant maintenance.
Frame rot. Right by the cats on either side from the heat and the rear frame corners, the rest of the frame inside and out was clean. Almost done welding and then it gets stripped and new paint. And yes I bought it fully knowing what it needed, I'm completely stoping all the rust and it's going to get fluid film yearly. Everything else is pretty normal for the age, did 0-90 uphill hard when we were looking at it and it didn't miss a beat. Dealer records for all the services since new and mobile 1 every 5k since it was new. I fully realize the fact that it says Toyota doesn't mean it won't need work.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Question for the GM peeps:
Doing an oil change on a 2022 tahoe with the 5.3L, fill-cap said "dexos 0w-20".

The penzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 that I picked up had no Dexos rating. I ended up using it anyway because its a dmn good oil.

Will this cause issues?

48k miles, drained the coolant and refilled with Prestone dex-cool. Coolant didnt look all that great. Will drain and refill again on the next oil change.
 

redline4

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Question for the GM peeps:
Doing an oil change on a 2022 tahoe with the 5.3L, fill-cap said "dexos 0w-20".

The penzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 that I picked up had no Dexos rating. I ended up using it anyway because its a dmn good oil.

Will this cause issues?

48k miles, drained the coolant and refilled with Prestone dex-cool. Coolant didnt look all that great. Will drain and refill again on the next oil change.

I highly doubt it will be an issue.
I honestly don't even know what the whole Dexos rating even entails.
Many years ago I got to be the first in our shop to diagnose and repair one if the small gas turbo engines for cracked ring lands. GM told me it was from using non Dexos oil. I'm not an engineer. I'm not an oil guy. I'm not a scientist and I don't stay at a Holiday Inn Express. But, I didn't buy that then and still don't 13 or so years later.
But, to each their own. I personally won't use anything Pennzoil or Quaker State. Spent too much time digging the waxy, sludgey goo from lifter valleys of engines in the late 90's and early 2000's that used exclusively those brands. Is that still likely an issue? Probably not. But it soured me on those names.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Thanks, ill try not to lose sleep over this dexos requirement.

Yep penzoil platinum or ultra platinum has come a long ways. It has exceeded Mobil 1. Ran a toyota sienna to 337k miles on penzoil platinum. Would still run if I replace the fuel pump a 3rd rime.
 

redline4

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Seeing I'm in this thread, I took my Chevelle for a short trip around the block.
Turns out the suspension wasn't fully settled on the jackstands and on big bumps my axle hits my exhaust..soooo, that's one more thing to do over again.
I also decided the higher stall was a good decision and that the rear gears definitely need to be changed. Unfortunately I can't recall with 100% certainty what I decided on for the pinion support and such so I'll need to pull it apart before calling Moser.
 

redline4

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Ok kids, time for a Chevelle update..
New transmission was being weird. Manual 1st was 1st. Manual 2nd was 1st. Manual 3rd would start in 2nd, drive range would start in second..
The tailpipes I made would hit the axle on bumps, turns out the suspension wasnt fully settled on the jackstands when I built them.

Tailpipes were done again. They will work for this summer. I need to find someone who has the skill and equipment to built me a nice ones.

After much scratching my head, wanting to stick my head in a revolving door and possibly just lighting myself on fire, it turns out that issue is due to the Holley trans connector having the ability to be installed 180 degrees off.... So, it now shifts.

Also, got a set of 4.11's sitting here from Moser to install at some point.
 

legdelimber

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I don't know what the Holly connector is like.
But with stuff that I worked around, we'd try to swap a male and female pin in the connectors if we were making the wiring. To "key" it.
IF you've got something like the old Molex connectors, an old collapsible antenna from a portable radio or phone, etc... Yeah I realize those have all but disappered nowdays.
You can take out a section of the tube and use it to slip down over the pin and press in the locking tab, then slide the pin out of the connector body.
Of course you'll be cutting the wire to use the little tube over it.
But we'll need to cut the old crimped pin off anyway so as to switch out the gender of pin.
Just cut it as close the pin as you possibly can, to keep as much wire length as possible.
 

redline4

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I don't know what the Holly connector is like.
But with stuff that I worked around, we'd try to swap a male and female pin in the connectors if we were making the wiring. To "key" it.
IF you've got something like the old Molex connectors, an old collapsible antenna from a portable radio or phone, etc... Yeah I realize those have all but disappered nowdays.
You can take out a section of the tube and use it to slip down over the pin and press in the locking tab, then slide the pin out of the connector body.
Of course you'll be cutting the wire to use the little tube over it.
But we'll need to cut the old crimped pin off anyway so as to switch out the gender of pin.
Just cut it as close the pin as you possibly can, to keep as much wire length as possible.

The OEM transmission connector has a locating tab. The connector on the Holley harness also has a locating tab but it does not protrude as far and thus can be installed 180 off. Due to the fact that the trans tunnel is quite snug on this thing, I can't really see it when I'm connecting it and got in plugged in incorrectly.
My wife and I just put 30ish miles on it. Shift points are way too high, but I can work with it now.
 

Woodslasher

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I've recently acquired a massive project, and the past two days were reverse project car days. 4 BMW's have permanently left the premises within 24hrs, and I think that's the fastest that number of vehicles will ever leave there. Still a bunch or cars and even more parts to go, but this gave me some major breathing room/staging space.

P.S. Skidsteers freakin' ROCK! I can't even guess how long this would've taken without a skidsteer on site.

IMG_3324.jpegIMG_3352.jpeg
 

jacktheripper

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Well, I’m finally starting to come back around on the forum. My old purple 1995 f150 was totaled back in January. I got a new truck about a month ago, and I’ve been totally absorbed in fixing everything up. It’s a 1997 f250 Heavy Duty, Super Cab, Long bed. Has the 460 and zf5 manual. Bought it for $5k in Denver and trucked it home. I quickly realized there was more wrong with it than I thought. Oh, well. It’s mine now.

Some of the highlights of work that I’ve done to it:
- Dana 60 swap from an OBS f350
- New tires
- New front and rear f350 springs, shackles, bushings, 4” f350 blocks in rear
- New shocks
- New fuel tank on the rear from my old truck (rust problems)
- New front fuel pump
- Water pump and radiator
- Fixed all door hinges and strikers to align everything
- Got all the lights, door switches, radio, functioning
- Swapped in nice front seats from my old truck
- Removed a carpenter’s pencil jamming the blend door
- Installed A/C condenser and compressor from my old truck
- Swapped rear bumper and skid plates from old truck
- Added spare tire
- Replaced all fluids: T- case, differentials, Transmission, Engine oil, coolant
- Replaced driveshaft U joints

There’s still a bunch more to do:
- Replace front axle seals and rotors
- Swap in steering box and lower steering shaft from my old truck
- f350 pitman arm
- Remove catalytic converter
- Replace timing cover gasket that started leaking after the water pump job
- Replace clutch pedal bushings
- Replace slave cylinder and line
- Install overload tabs for the rear springs
- Swap in a instrument cluster with tach
- Get cruise control functional
- Delete emissions stuff
- Clay bar, buff, and wax
- Install new pinstriping tape and decals

There may be a 12 valve Cummins coming fo this truck this winter.
 

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