Flushing cases

[StihlEchoingHusky]

So I tried looking this up on Google but I can't seem to find a answer. When doing a gasket less rebuild what would you suggest I flush the case out with? I don't have a case splitter so I've been using gas/oil mix this eintre time but I fear that not flushing oil out, that it could possibly have little bits of dirt in it trapped by the oil. Can I flush the semi assembled case with isopropyl alcohol? if I follow it compressed air to dry then flush with mix or use a blunt tip needle to inject fresh oil directly into crank and connecting rod bearings?

 

[Woodwackr]

I just use mix gas.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I just use mix gas.

I kinda figured that is going to be the most common method. I'm just curious if there is a better option. I always use compressed air before disassembly and I use it as I go along to some degree. Down to just the cylinder. As I go along I plug openings with clean pieces of blue shop paper towels so when I do hit it with air nothing goes into the engine. I guess I'm just being a little paranoid.

 

[Woodwackr]

I kinda figured that is going to be the most common method. I'm just curious if there is a better option. I always use compressed air before disassembly and I use it as I go along to some degree. Down to just the cylinder. As I go along I plug openings with clean pieces of blue shop paper towels so when I do hit it with air nothing goes into the engine. I guess I'm just being a little paranoid.

Just don't blow *s-word into the case

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Just don't blow *s-word into the case

There's always a solution to things in life and the answer never changes. DONT BE *pretty boy!!!
Just don't blow $hit into case then there won't be *s-word in the case duhhh!!

 

[bogieboy]

Mix gas or some type of solvent, i usually use parts cleaner solvent, which, straight out of our parts cleaner at the shop is filtered to like 10 micron or so.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Blast it out with a water hose. Won't hurt anything that I know of if you drain it and dry it out well.

 

[huskihl]

I use the parts washer with mineral spirits in it. Fill it up a couple times, roll the crank over a few times, dump it out. Fill it up again and tilt to the left, tilt to the right while rolling it over and dump it out again and then blow it out with air. Oil the bearings and the crank when you’re done.

And be careful using an aftermarket pop up piston in a 372 xtorq. The piston is already heavy and the bearings are borderline weak. An AM pop up that actually works for compression will be taller than stock, but it also adds more weight yet. Many of them are roughly the same height as a stock piston so when you put it back together, your squish clearance is actually worse. Hard to make compression like that

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I use the parts washer with mineral spirits in it. Fill it up a couple times, roll the crank over a few times, dump it out. Fill it up again and tilt to the left, tilt to the right while rolling it over and dump it out again and then blow it out with air. Oil the bearings and the crank when you’re done.

And be careful using an aftermarket pop up piston in a 372 extort. The piston is already heavy and the beans are borderline weak. An AM pop up that actually works for compression will be taller than stock, but it also adds more weight yet. Many of them are roughly the same height as a stock piston so when you put it back together, your squish clearance is actually worse. Hard to make compression like that

Huh that's weird. This piston feels lighter in hand than my old OEM. It won't be attached to much longer anyhow. I plan on ordering a new OEM p&c kit on Friday. This one is just to tie me over.

 

[Ketchup]

I find that most of the gunk hides close to or in the bearings. I pull the seals and pour/spray various concoctions through the bearings followed by compressed air. I’ve used mineral spirits, straight gas, mix, WD40, brake cleaner, acetone, alcohol, soapy water, lots of stuff. I usually start with a degreaser style cleaner like straight gas, soap or brake cleaner, then move to something with more lubricant. I focus specifically on the bearings, the big end being the hardest to get into.
I also use tools and cue tips to grab gunky bits. It’s surprising how often a chunk will just migrate from one cranny to another instead of getting flushed out.
If I’m just swishing out a known good case with good seals its brake cleaner, the WD, then mix.

There were some new XT kits for sale in the parts threads.

SOLD Thread 'New, Genuine 372xp x torq topends'

Aug 24, 2024

I've got 3 kits available new in box
200 shipped

Can port them for an extra $100.

• Sawponder
• Replies: 2
• Forum: Parts Only

• 

 

[cuinrearview]

Or you could just split the case. A tool isn't absolutely necessary for it. I've split many cases and I don't have one. A little heat and a little care works wonders.

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Or you could just split the case. A tool isn't absolutely necessary for it. I've split many cases and I don't have one. A little heat and a little care works wonders.

I've decided to go that route. The whole reason for the post asking about flushing is because of porting plus oil seal replacement. I've already got a center case gasket and I decided it would be a good idea to replace that while I'm at it. that way I don't have to tear it all apart again in the near future. also the insurance that there is no dirt left in the case will definitely make me feel better.

 

[huskihl]

I've decided to go that route. The whole reason for the post asking about flushing is because of porting plus oil seal replacement. I've already got a center case gasket and I decided it would be a good idea to replace that while I'm at it. that way I don't have to tear it all apart again in the near future. also the insurance that there is no dirt left in the case will definitely make me feel better.

I’d put some $7 Nachi or NTN bearings in it while you’re in there

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I’d put some $7 Nachi or NTN bearings in it while you’re in there

Doritos!!! Are nacho bearing better than the OEM??

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

I’d put some $7 Nachi or NTN bearings in it while you’re in there

I was just remembering back when I was a kid bones super swiss ceramics where the skate board bearings everyone wanted. Are there ceramics for chainsaws?

 

[huskihl]

Doritos!!! Are nacho bearing better than the OEM??

Skating on thin ice here probably, but yeah I think so

I was just remembering back when I was a kid bones super swiss ceramics where the skate board bearings everyone wanted. Are there ceramics for chainsaws?

There are, but success rates aren’t really great. Plus most of us don’t think it’s necessary

 

[StihlEchoingHusky]

Skating on thin ice here probably, but yeah I think so



There are, but success rates aren’t really great. Plus most of us don’t think it’s necessary

Oooo he said there better than OEM!! Blasphemy!!!! Where would I order them from. You already know I trust your opinion. so I'll get some.

 

[Ketchup]

I’ve seen the ceramic bearings on the Dominant website, but they’re usually out of stock. And they do nothing a $10 bearing won’t do. It’s not worth the money. NTN, Nachi, slacker, OEM. Just go name brand and avoid the chinese AM cheapo stuff.

 

[cuinrearview]

If Nachi got him giggling, imagine when he runs across F. A. g...

 

[huskihl]

Oooo he said there better than OEM!! Blasphemy!!!! Where would I order them from. You already know I trust your opinion. so I'll get some.

I get them on eBay. Most have metal or rubber shields that need popped off