I'd probably run it. Maybe run it a little fat on the tune or try a higher octane fuel to help keep it a few degrees cooler. Opening up the muffler a bit will also help get rid of unnecessary heat.
I've ran a 385 for ten years that's in worse shape than that. Still blows 150psi. I cut 15-20 cords a year. If I was making a living with it I'd swap it out. For a firewood saw run it.
Id run it maybe do a little grinding so it could breathe let the heat escape out the exhaust port.Anyone one ever try to jb weld fins back on?Or form your own fins?
I'm sure I read about somebody around here repairing cooling fins and repairing muffler flanges. I can't remember who it was but I'm pretty sure @skippy would know who it was
I saw one that someone did over on AS that looked real nice. Actually got me thinking when I do overhaul the 385 I may take the old cylinder to work and try welding it up.
That cylinder will probably be fine forever....I have had saws on my bench that customers have been running for extended periods with the fins so plugged with pitch and gunk that the cylinder was pretty much a solid slug (Logging saws). Not only was there no air flow, but the cylinder was insulated! .....If kept clean, there's no way a cylinder like that won't last.
X2 on the welding. A cheaper option might be to use some aluminum brazing rod. It just needs enough contact to transfer heat. Pretty doesn't matter at this point, and it's not like they need to be real solid b/c they aren't structural.
What filler metal and Welding process do you use when repairing cylinders? The welds look clean, so I am assuming high frequency TIG? I normally weld stainless or carbon. The aluminum filler material is not something I am familiar with. Thanks!
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