Electric impact wrenches

[Al Smith]

is a "hammer drill" even entirely necessary?

You can drill concrete or cinder block with a regular drill but it will take you forever .
Now hammer drills I have several. The 18 volt DeWalt is okay if you only have a few anchors to set .Then it's a Milwaukee corded 1/2" ..Then come two Hilti drills ,one medium size that uses sds bits and and a large one TE 80 that uses sds max bits .The large drill will run a 6" core bit which I don't have .Both the Hilti's can be used as a chisel . BTW The Hilti's were another "scrap pass " thing I found in the dumpster and repaired .

 

[Jason628]

I borrowed a 18v ridgid rotary hammer to mount some electrical boxes to the wall in my basement. Drilled 30 something holes and didn't even use one bar on the battery. I don't have much experience with them but, the ridgid seemed to do the job with little effort.

 

[Jason628]

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I have a smaller dewalt corded hammer drill. I got it free from a buddy, He was going to throw it away because the handle on the case was missing. It was brand new!

If you’re only mounting 1/4” stuff you don’t need a hammer drill but Concrete will kill a mason drill bit pretty fast. So much easier with one.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

As a matter of fact, I even impressed my concrete guy at my old house. I had made a concrete ramp for my Harley to get in and out of the shed. When prep for the new pad was being done he told me the ramp had to go but he didn’t want to use his bobcat as it would likely tear the shed up. I poured it tight to the front. I asked if he thought the bobcat would lift it and he said yes but again was worried about damage. I made a bracket out of 2” angle iron, pinned it to the middle of the ramp with 5/8” quick bolts, put a clevis in the middle and hooked his chain to it. Once he pulled tight he was able to pull it back and lift it all at the same time.

 

[Al Smith]

You'd be surprised on how much a good concrete anchor will hold .It's standard practice in demolition on thick concrete slabs to cut an area with a big concrete saws into slabs, use one 5/8" anchor like a Hilti "quick bolt " and lift a couple of tons with a big high lift or back hoe . When possible a lot less labor intensive than breaking it up with a jack hammer .

 

[ElevatorGuy]

You'd be surprised on how much a good concrete anchor will hold .It's standard practice in demolition on thick concrete slabs to cut an area with a big concrete saws into slabs, use one 5/8" anchor like a Hilti "quick bolt " and lift a couple of tons with a big high lift or back hoe . When possible a lot less labor intensive than breaking it up with a jack hammer .

Oh I know. It’s funny when our new helper get scared. We always use two but pin it to the ceiling, hook up the chain fall and pull the motor or generator right up the stairs.

 

[Jason628]

Got a new toy yesterday

 

[Al Smith]

Oh I know. It’s funny when our new helper get scared. We always use two but pin it to the ceiling, hook up the chain fall and pull the motor or generator right up the stairs.

I've worked with the installers on a couple of installations of long cylinder hydraulic elevators .I must say they use some very creative rigging methods .Being an electrician all I had to do is hit the spot with the electrical power .Easy job---most of the time .

 

[Dub11]

View attachment 298335

In case you didn't know but Ridgid is made by TTI under license. They also own Milwaukee and make Ryobi and Hart stuff now if I heard that right.

 

[Dub11]

So new 40v Makita,

 

[Jason628]

I'm not sure how much more torque you can drive through a 1/2"

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> I put permatex right stuff on the front and back of the block and it didnt seal

It might require a custom double thick gasket, I know some Edelbrock Ford 351w intake manifolds do.

As for the HF air Earthquake, I upgraded my fittings and connectors to Milton Hi-Flow (V type) (bought at Northern Tools) and it does make a difference on the 1/2" impact wrench. The 3/8" 100 foot hose and air compressor are now the weak links.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will remember that about the fittings!

 

[Slotracer577]

In case you didn't know but Ridgid is made by TTI under license. They also own Milwaukee and make Ryobi and Hart stuff now if I heard that right.

TTI does Milwaukee, Ridgid, and ryobi. Each brand is somewhat independent and has different priorities. Ryobi is aimed at the homeowner and time to market is priority. Ridgid is contractor grade with a good price, Milwaukee is quality first. The one good thing about ryobi is they have never changed the battery attachment. So any older tool can now be used with newer lithium batteries.

 

[Dub11]

TTI does Milwaukee, Ridgid, and ryobi. Each brand is somewhat independent and has different priorities. Ryobi is aimed at the homeowner and time to market is priority. Ridgid is contractor grade with a good price, Milwaukee is quality first. The one good thing about ryobi is they have never changed the battery attachment. So any older tool can now be used with newer lithium batteries.

And if I heard right TTI is making Hart for Walmart now.

And my when my boss was about ready to pitch the blue Ryobi tools at work after buying some new green one I showed him that their still good. Surprisingly the old blue drill is still trucking. The green one was smoked a few weeks ago but before that the mosfet (learned that from AvE) burned out.

 

[Jason628]

> I put permatex right stuff on the front and back of the block and it didnt seal

It might require a custom double thick gasket, I know some Edelbrock Ford 351w intake manifolds do.

As for the HF air Earthquake, I upgraded my fittings and connectors to Milton Hi-Flow (V type) (bought at Northern Tools) and it does make a difference on the 1/2" impact wrench. The 3/8" 100 foot hose and air compressor are now the weak links.

I think what happened is when I laid a bead it blew a bubble in it and didn't seal. I was using one of the pressurized cans. After I put on the intake I went to go seal the pan and it blew the rest of the air out of it and no silicone. First time I've experienced that and I've used that stuff quite a bit. I pulled it back apart and used permatex black on the intake and it's not leaking anymore. They don't use a gasket where the manifold meets the block.

 

[calcutta250]

I like to think “buy into the battery” system. If you can afford the batteries Milwaukee is great. Harbor Fright is beginning to make some very lucrative battery powered tools. I’m tempted to buy into the HF system.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

I like to think “buy into the battery” system. If you can afford the batteries Milwaukee is great. Harbor Fright is beginning to make some very lucrative battery powered tools. I’m tempted to buy into the HF system.

If you can stomach using tools named after pagan gods, I have the Atlas 80v chainsaw, 80v string trimmer (actually quite good), 40v blower, fast charger for 40/80 (do not bother with the normal charger), (2) 80V batteries, and the reg 40/80 charger. The 80v chainsaw is fine with the Oregon bar and chain vs. what it ships with from HF. I think 16" bar would be better. Not counting the bar and chain (snagged from a Poulan I fixed) about $575.00. I bought it because I thought the Atlas 80v was the best battery system available for a chainsaw, for the price and ROI..

I decided not to go with the rest of the battery eco-system from HF. I now own yellow and red button tools with no new battery options or chargers unless I roll my own.

I will probably go Ryobi because of all the different tools available, cheap price, the 12v car charger for batteries (!!!), and for the long lived battery system or just go Milwaukee for the quality, especially for the sawzall, which is a tool I frequently use .

 

[crowslayer17]

No experience with the Dewalt.
I have the Milwaukee 1/2" High Torque and it has plenty of power and no problems yet. Only need to put it on #1 to put lug nuts on which is about 100ft/lbs. I actually bought a 3/8 drive because it had too much power and too big for the smaller stuff.