High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

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stgdz

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The hi-jet bypass won't let you get to 13k... I plugged mine and did a few other mods.
Yeah I put a drop of jb weld on it. Only other mod I have is drilling out the muffler at the corner.
 

thedude74

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But that should allow it to pull 13k though. I can't understand why it's not.
You mentioned drilling out the corner of the muffler. Did you drill out/remove the internal baffle/restrictor tube? They're really choked up inside.
A timing advance also helps. File off 1/4-1/3 of the key.
 

stgdz

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NEVER run a chainsaw without a chain, especially if it is modded. It can overspeed the flywheel and/or spin the clutch off.
No load is without cutting wood.
That's what I thought but wanted a confirmation.


With a 24" chain it was up to about 11.5k. I can verify tonight. The hole I put it the muffler was up by the chain brake at the corner. I didn't remove anything from the inside.
 

EFSM

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The hole I put it the muffler was up by the chain brake at the corner. I didn't remove anything from the inside.
So that's on the outside corner of the muffler? There is a fairly restrictive baffle in the middle of the muffler that is hard to remove. What I do is drill some holes under the deflector--that gives it a straight shot out the deflector, instead of going through the small holes in the baffle and up through the pipe into the deflector chamber.
 

FergusonTO35

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Weird how the muffler on my CS-400 is (was) thoroughly clogged up with a cat and baffles but that of my newer CS-500P is wide open from the factory with nothing at all inside.
 

FergusonTO35

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NEVER run a chainsaw without a chain, especially if it is modded. It can overspeed the flywheel and/or spin the clutch off.
No load is without cutting wood.

I took my kid to a Halloween event and a guy was dressed up like Leatherface, revving his MS-270 sans chain. I wanted to tell him not to do that, but decided it would just make me look like a smartarse.
 

mainer_in_ak

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My 1983 CS-8000P. Just got my hands on a 1980 500VL.
Nice old saw. The older 8000p had a substantially larger carburetor than the later models. Feeds the saw better after port work.

20230420-181732.jpg
 

heimannm

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I'm currently working on putting a 351 back together and have this little part that I cannot find a home for. I know it came off this saw since I only took it apart yesterday...

20240711_171956.jpg

20240711_172006.jpg

20240711_172012.jpg

If anyone has a good IPL available I could use that as well.

Thanks,

Mark
 

nbbt

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EFSM

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heimannm

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I'd forgotten about the oil line...it came out mostly in one piece but certainly was not to be used on the saw again. I had success before running a piece of stiff wire down into the fitting in the tank and slipping a piece of tubing over it down to the fitting, that trick worked again. I used a piece of 1/8x1/4 Tygon and made a slight bell in the end of it by heating it (heat gun) and slipping a tool in the end. The line went on the fitting quite nicely and I had an oil pick up that fit the 1/8" tubing quite nicely.

I spent an inordinate amount of time getting the throttle reconnected and working, the rod was pretty bent up and would not operate properly without some coaxing. Surprisingly the boot was still serviceable. Choke rod was also a bit bent but at least it functioned correctly. Like a previous project I made up a fuel line using Tygon with a "bushing" through the air box for a good tight seal.

I was able to get the saw fully assembled except for the clutch drum, fired right up on prime but I was not able to add fuel & oil just yet as I had other things to tend to.

20240712_171544.jpg

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The bar has taken some abuse from running a slack chain.

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Mark
 
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