038, but I would probably keep 50mm bore for an eventual 4 cube/65cc racer build.@Red97 what top end are you thinking about on there?
Solder it shut and re-drill smallerSo I had more trouble getting the HD12 to play nice than expected. First, the intakeboot kept collapsing out of my modified flange, so I had to go back to a stock flange and clearance it for the throttle travel. Then the butterfly was just barely hanging on the lip of the boot, so I had to go back in again and shave the edge of the butterfly. I just thinned it, no change in shape.
But I still had trouble. At my house it’s just too fat. With the H turned in all the way it still 4-strokes. The jet is just a tad too big. I need a jet from and HD-50 or maybe HD-18.
Luckily there is a lot more air down at the yard and it runs pretty well. Video uploading…
I’m not sure what you mean by bypass. The nozzle has a .4mm hole on top, the H circuit will have a hole and there may be a third. Are you talking about the H circuit hole?Plug the bypass in the back of the nozzle.
I get what you’re saying, but this should work up to the point I want more fuel than .6 can supply. The needle on this carb is also questionable. The hole is offset in the needle seat. I don’t think it works very well. Prior to mods it was fat with the needle down tight. It does seem to adjust now, but I’ll have to fiddle a bit more to confirm. China carb…probably will end up modding the Walbro.Plugging the hole that feeds the needle orifice makes the needle ineffective as that is now your restriction not the needle which allows tunability
Red is nozzle. The green line is showing the bypass in the back of the nozzle, this ensures even with H needle turned too lean the saw stays a little rich, in some instances it’s wildly over sized (echo 590 comes to mind). Orange shows the hole that you filled and drilled, this feeds the path from the top of the needle into the nozzle, and all your restriction should be done from the point of the needle, not the hole up top as you lose some tuning ability. Yellow is the fuel from both the rear of the nozzle and the side of the nozzle all entering the motor.I’m not sure what you mean by bypass. The nozzle has a .4mm hole on top, the H circuit will have a hole and there may be a third. Are you talking about the H circuit hole?
I get what you’re saying, but this should work up to the point I want more fuel than .6 can supply. The needle on this carb is also questionable. The hole is offset in the needle seat. I don’t think it works very well. Prior to mods it was fat with the needle down tight. It does seem to adjust now, but I’ll have to fiddle a bit more to confirm. China carb…probably will end up modding the Walbro.
A 2095 boot is really short and may work. Probably difficult to source though. Might be able to force a 359? 372? ring in there to spread your smaller boot open a little bit.The intake track on these little buggers is frustratingly small. The boot is a real constriction point, but I can’t find anything similar with a larger bore. The HD butterflies catch a bit in the air horn and on the stock boot. I gave them a little sharpen so they don’t stick.
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I switched to this carb on the 4910. The bypass soldered C(hina)3M worked well, but would lean out when I tipped the saw up. This one may need a bit of solder as well. It’s pretty fat.
I have a dead 2095! I’ll check it out. I tried the 359 ring. No dice.A 2095 boot is really short and may work. Probably difficult to source though. Might be able to force a 359? 372? ring in there to spread it open a little bit.