[dealer/tech-quality] Echo ppt-266(or 266H) guides/diagrams?

[Cerberus]

While a user was generous enough to direct-message me with similar-enough Echo pole-saws, which did let me successfully complete my 'Broken-in-half 266 to working-and-stronger-than-OEM 266'(though it is like 5lbs heavier now, w/ all the excessive bracing I did to the shaft!!) \

However now that it's "done", I'm looking to mod its choked-up engine as well as a more-thorough 'overhauling'/clean&re-grease of the shaft-to-cutter area(and cutter's gearing/internals, so far am just jamming marine-grease wherever I can fit it and relying on back&forth extension of the pole to seat it, should bite the bullet and do the god-awful full shaft-dissembly again, was stretching my lithium to finish it and it was so dirty I remember thinking 'if you succeed in repairing this, you'll wanna re-visit these areas for long-term reliability' but before doing so would like to have a guide, FWIW there's 3 sets of guides for the 266/266h(the H just means "no loop handle" so far as I can tell), Echo's breakdown has mine in the 'middle' serial# category ie it's serial starts E205 and the other two categories' serials don't even start with E2 so it's a 'middle gen' I guess)

My guides don't show me where the 'hidden' carb screws are (I know I can google for this specific item) or how to re-lube anything as a dealer would, for instance now that I've rebuilt this tool and used it I can't use it for >2-3min before the powerhead's metal-casing starts getting so hot that I fear there's friction somewhere there *should* be lubed w/ heavy-grease, just dunno where...have marine-grease and a 'parts/salvage' echo-stringtrimmer-powerhead so am gonna go dissemble that and get a feel for how the internals are (FWIW, e-replacement-parts is very good w/ diagrams, I can *see* all the parts through their diagrams which I can't applaud them enough for/will be ordering to show support, but what I need is to know how an Echo tech approaches one of these if, say, someone brought it in saying "this area got 100% depleted of heavy-grease", I don't need step-by-step but some "order of operations" and dissembly-guidance from an OEM-guide would be so huge to me here!!

Thanks a ton for any&all help

(and to prove I'm 'invested'/not tire-kicking here, and in-spirit of showing our embarrassingly-ugly prototype-work[it has since been 'aesthetically updated', as much as a steel tube can be ;D ], here's the fixed 266, received as snapped-in-half for free, spent $35 @Echo for the new coupler and a good amount at home depot[though I also dove-into learning/using fiberglass here so can't put all that cost onto this project!] for the overlay(s, actually!), ugly and like 5lbs heavier on a 20lbs machine lol but should be far stronger than any OEM 266's!
Note that there's also a "top" steel 2" overlay pipe, just showing this way to show the bottom-half of the coupler is also bolstered-up beneath the "real" bracing-overlay, idea is to have WAY less shock-pressure ever hit the cuff, instead distribute/spread it along the pole at the >5 mount-points of the overlay-shelling McGuyverin', gotta love it ;D

 

[Cerberus]

hmmm that leaves an unclear pic of what I did, here's a full shot:


Was glassed-up (w/o success, obviously!) by prior owner, thankfully the broken-cuff was able to be used as a "spacer" on the fiberglass-shaft so I could line-up the 2" overlay piping w/ incredible precision, have that OEM(broken)cuff at the top of the overlay and, between there & the new coupler, have several [custom-poured to-fit] fiberglass "spacer-pucks" so it's not like that overlay is just pinching the collar at the bottom & the broken-collar-piece up top, it's padded at proper intervals in-between which allows me to "ratchet-down" those areas a lil extra so I don't have to put un-due pressure on the new collar, since it holds a bearing and is designed for some flex I figure it's best to have a stiff overlay that's braced above&below this collar to "reposition forces" if/when I have to be rough with it!!

 

[AVB]

The several version of this unit but all use the Zama RB series carburetor that has two EPA plugs which nearly impossible to remove without the 2.5mm extractor or severely damage the 3.0 mm extractor. One is down the center of the rotary barrel and other is on the side below the primer bulb.

The owners manual covers the maintenance.

 

[Cerberus]

The several version of this unit but all use the Zama RB series carburetor that has two EPA plugs which nearly impossible to remove without the 2.5mm extractor or severely damage the 3.0 mm extractor. One is down the center of the rotary barrel and other is on the side below the primer bulb.

The owners manual covers the maintenance.

I'm looking at them now, and plz forgive any ignorance here, but why can't I simply do the usual "Heat up a clothes-pin, insert into plastic limiter plug, let cool, pull-out" technique that's pretty ubiquitous for limiter cap removals? If they need replacing, I could just put some red Permatex in after adjusting, no? Seems it's simply a flathead adjustment screw with a plastic "pellet"-style plug in-place above it, am at a loss for why this should be hard

(FWIW I do have an extra zama unit so I have a "dummy/tester" unit to try removal from before touching the 266's carb )